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Blown Motor, Engine Rebuild/Replacement.

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 So it's 300 ml of 0-20 and some moly? I thought RSR was a quart? At best it's a ceramic additive, but I know NASA used

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Old 03-19-2014, 08:45 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chuck33079 View Post
So it's 300 ml of 0-20 and some moly?
I thought RSR was a quart? At best it's a ceramic additive, but I know NASA used Mo.

LiquiMoly is 300mL and some Mo.
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:44 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 View Post
^RSR Ran Up oil is BULLLLLLSHIT.
Get the one I recommended. Disadvantage is that it won't thin your oil like the other stuff. But it's the same additives
not sure what you mean by bullsh1t, its super expensive if thats what you mean, but it worked great. I'll give the Liqui Moly a try for sure though
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
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not sure what you mean by bullsh1t, its super expensive if thats what you mean, but it worked great. I'll give the Liqui Moly a try for sure though
It's just snake oil's snake oil. The "HP gains" are due to it being thinner. And the sound difference is the Mo in it. That's why Nissan's Ester oil has a high amount of Mo in it. To lessen the sound of valve chatter
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Old 03-19-2014, 02:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Good info
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Old 03-19-2014, 09:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Well no word from vsr that my motor was shipped today... Having flashbacks!!
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Old 03-19-2014, 10:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Eeaaaaassyy. It's only 1 day. Not few months. Finishing touches prolly.
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Old 03-20-2014, 07:29 AM   #7 (permalink)
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LOL!!!!!



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Eeaaaaassyy. It's only 1 day. Not few months. Finishing touches prolly.
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Old 03-20-2014, 07:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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So what's up Cosmo? Any word?
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Lol

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Old 03-20-2014, 08:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Everything done, my motor Will ship tomorrow. Listen guys I'm not sure if I'm going to be able to help out with those gtm manifolds. Vsr is very busy and there is no telling when I may get them back. By the time they get my manifolds and figure out something or fabricate another set it will just be way too long for me to wait and I really want to get my car up and running again. Plus I refuse to be the guinea pig on a new set of manifolds and possibly be forced to do this all again. Sorry guys but I want my car up and going..
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
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So you're gonna reinstall the cracked manifolds?
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:52 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I think hes going to get them welded and cryo'd?

I am not surprised that they are swamped, its about that time to get those last mods in methinks.
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Old 03-20-2014, 10:08 PM   #13 (permalink)
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tubular manifolds love to crack unless they are really high grade stuff, like welded iwth the pipes back flushed with shield gas using the proper rod with all the same grade of stianless for the parts (at the very least 304 or better). the head flange needs to have all the runners divorced so it can move around as it heats and the wall on the tube needs to be thick enough to fully support the turbo under these conditions. also it is going to dump more heat into the engine bay in a very tight area next to a bunch of stuff that doesn't like to get hot. This is why sets for the 350z cost upwards of $1600. Just throwing that out there.
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Old 03-21-2014, 12:01 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 1slow370 View Post
tubular manifolds love to crack unless they are really high grade stuff, like welded iwth the pipes back flushed with shield gas using the proper rod with all the same grade of stianless for the parts (at the very least 304 or better). the head flange needs to have all the runners divorced so it can move around as it heats and the wall on the tube needs to be thick enough to fully support the turbo under these conditions. also it is going to dump more heat into the engine bay in a very tight area next to a bunch of stuff that doesn't like to get hot. This is why sets for the 350z cost upwards of $1600. Just throwing that out there.
How do you know all this?
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Old 03-21-2014, 09:11 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 1slow370 View Post
tubular manifolds love to crack unless they are really high grade stuff, like welded iwth the pipes back flushed with shield gas using the proper rod with all the same grade of stianless for the parts (at the very least 304 or better). the head flange needs to have all the runners divorced so it can move around as it heats and the wall on the tube needs to be thick enough to fully support the turbo under these conditions. also it is going to dump more heat into the engine bay in a very tight area next to a bunch of stuff that doesn't like to get hot. This is why sets for the 350z cost upwards of $1600. Just throwing that out there.
Yup.

You need good quality tubing, with proper filler rod. The most important thing is back purging with argon, or another inert gas as well as a good gas lens for the tig torch.

I had a local customer who brought in a $1100 FD turbo manifold that was built out of SCH 10 pipe (nice and strong). The welding process was all wrong though. The manufacturer did not back purge and then did not weld with full amperage...the manifold was cracked in about 5 places after 6 months of use.

I re-did every single weld on the manifold (using proper welding procedures)...no issues with it after 3 years of abuse.
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