Blown Motor, Engine Rebuild/Replacement.

Rusty · 03-14-2014, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cosmogirl

Actually it will but the small bit I have on my dremel would take forever to do. I will look around for something a bit bigger because if I do keep the kit I want to open up so it can flow as much as possible... Rusty please feel free to chime in here...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Problem found. You need a cutting tool with more nuts. Hell, Harbor Freight will have a $20 air die grinder that'll work well enough to do the job. The Dremel is for final finishing, not hogging out that kind of metal. You're also using plenty of cutting oil, right?

Yea, you need an air powered 1/4" die grinder with a couple of large football shaped burr bits for roughing. Then a couple of smaller diameter burr bits for finishing. Ball shaped. If you want to go deep into the manifold. Then you need burr bits with a 6" shaft on them. You'll burn up the Dremel on the first port you try to do. I get my die grinders from Sears. I burn them up, and they give me a new one.

Local Sears store has them on stock to boot.

COSMO · 03-15-2014, 10:51 PM

Just wanted to thank rusty for the heads up on the die grinder, so far its working great. After further measuring the gtm exhaust manifolds the hole is 1/4 smaller then the flange where it connects to the turbo slowing the air flow down. Will take some pics tomorrow and show my progress. I will wait and send these to vsr because if they can fabricate these I want you guys to have the openings the same size to allow more exhaust flow going to the turbos. Stay tuned!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Yea, you need an air powered 1/4" die grinder with a couple of large football shaped burr bits for roughing. Then a couple of smaller diameter burr bits for finishing. Ball shaped. If you want to go deep into the manifold. Then you need burr bits with a 6" shaft on them. You'll burn up the Dremel on the first port you try to do. I get my die grinders from Sears. I burn them up, and they give me a new one.

Local Sears store has them on stock to boot.

1slow370 · 03-16-2014, 03:07 AM

burrs leave a shitty finish tho i recommend using some spiral rolls on an arbor for clean up, and they are cheap at harbor freight, spiral rolls are the way to go on aluminum too if you plan to port anything else. if you for some crasy reason decide to use a burr on anything aluminum make sure to use copious amounts of wd40 or a lube like LPS

Rusty · 03-16-2014, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370

burrs leave a shitty finish tho i recommend using some spiral rolls on an arbor for clean up, and they are cheap at harbor freight, spiral rolls are the way to go on aluminum too if you plan to port anything else. if you for some crasy reason decide to use a burr on anything aluminum make sure to use copious amounts of wd40 or a lube like LPS

What you can do to is. Get a piece of 1/4" diameter metal rod. Cut a slot in one end of it about one inch long with a hack saw. Now get a piece of emery paper about one inch wide and about six inches long. Fold it up twice, and stick it in the slot in the end of the rod. Now you can use that for polishing up the rough areas. You can use different grits of emery paper for different finishes.

Aluminum takes a different type of burr bit. One used for hard metals will clog up. It has to be a courser bit.

Rusty · 03-16-2014, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cosmogirl

Just wanted to thank rusty for the heads up on the die grinder, so far its working great. After further measuring the gtm exhaust manifolds the hole is 1/4 smaller then the flange where it connects to the turbo slowing the air flow down. Will take some pics tomorrow and show my progress. I will wait and send these to vsr because if they can fabricate these I want you guys to have the openings the same size to allow more exhaust flow going to the turbos. Stay tuned!!

You're welcome.

elperuano · 03-17-2014, 07:48 PM

Cosmo I'm waitin to see how everything works out for you! Let's gooooooooo

COSMO · 03-17-2014, 09:14 PM

I'm taking off all day tomorrow to work on those manifolds before I send them down to vsr. Them thangs are going to flow like mo-jo!!! More than likely I will smooth out the intake runners as well. Pics tomorrow!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by elperuano

Cosmo I'm waitin to see how everything works out for you! Let's gooooooooo

COSMO · 03-17-2014, 10:22 PM

Before and after. I may have loaded the after first. lol
Went ahead and grinded one tonight. Notice how the gasket doesn't cover any of the exhaust flow now.?

Hey gtm this is the way it should have been done!!!!!!!

tibal · 03-18-2014, 11:01 AM

That looks nice!! ^ Damn I never noticed that. Great call

COSMO · 03-18-2014, 12:40 PM

Thanks, I'm working on the other one right now and will post pics later..

Chuck33079 · 03-18-2014, 12:43 PM

How sharp is the edge on the inside of the flange? Did you round that off? Pics of these kind of things are always kinda hard to see.

COSMO · 03-18-2014, 12:45 PM

Sharp but I took my time and grinded it down for a smooth transition... Will take better pics later..

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

How sharp is the edge on the inside of the flange? Did you round that off? Pics of these kind of things are always kinda hard to see.

Chuck33079 · 03-18-2014, 12:46 PM

Cool.

Dzel · 03-18-2014, 02:12 PM

Very nicely done Cosmo.

Sent with tapahoe

COSMO · 03-18-2014, 07:07 PM

Here is a pic of the driver side gtm exhaust manifold before and after the grinder. Who wants to bet it's going to flow a lot better now!!!

03-16-2014, 03:07 AM	#588 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	burrs leave a shitty finish tho i recommend using some spiral rolls on an arbor for clean up, and they are cheap at harbor freight, spiral rolls are the way to go on aluminum too if you plan to port anything else. if you for some crasy reason decide to use a burr on anything aluminum make sure to use copious amounts of wd40 or a lube like LPS DEpointfive0 likes this. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

03-17-2014, 07:48 PM	#591 (permalink)
elperuano A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Southwest FL Posts: 1,374 Drives: G37S Rep Power: 29	Cosmo I'm waitin to see how everything works out for you! Let's gooooooooo COSMO likes this.

03-18-2014, 11:01 AM	#594 (permalink)
tibal Track Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Safest Town In America Posts: 987 Drives: TT-370Z and 2.5RS Rep Power: 18	That looks nice!! ^ Damn I never noticed that. Great call __________________ 2010 - PG - M6 - 370zTT 453/409 6lbs IG @TRbal10 TEAM FLY1 MOTORSPORTS

03-18-2014, 12:43 PM	#596 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29539	How sharp is the edge on the inside of the flange? Did you round that off? Pics of these kind of things are always kinda hard to see. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

03-18-2014, 12:46 PM	#598 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29539	Cool. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

03-18-2014, 12:40 PM	#595 (permalink)
COSMO A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: FL Posts: 1,816 Drives: 2012 Touring GTM TT Rep Power: 20	Thanks, I'm working on the other one right now and will post pics later..

03-18-2014, 02:12 PM	#599 (permalink)
Dzel A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2011 Location: Midland, TX Posts: 3,884 Drives: 11 370Z PW M6 Rep Power: 23	Very nicely done Cosmo. Sent with tapahoe COSMO likes this. __________________ 10secWS6 IF YOU CAN'T SWING IT THEN DON'T BRING IT! Check out Domestic Performance C.C.

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