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Originally Posted by Chuck33079 Buy a set of pistons, rods and bearings yourself and find a good local machine shop. Have everything balanced with the clutch and flywheel on. Throw
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#11 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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ARP main studs ARP L19 head studs K1 Rods Wiseco pistons OEM bearings, Calico coated (theres no aftermarket available) Cosworth headgaskets engine gasket set rear main seal (doesn't come with the gasket set for some reason) timing chain/tensioners water pump oil pump pickup tube Recommended (especially if you want to beat on the car in the summer): Re-routing the turbo coolant lines (GTM chains the coolant lines together so the driver turbo is cooled with the water exiting the passenger turbo) Upgraded radiator (mishimoto works great) 2012+ coolant expansion tank 2012+ coolant hard pipe (expansion tank returns to this pipe now, above the driver side manifold) Ceramic coating for manifolds, turbine housings, downpipes Bracing the driver side manifold (the GTM driver side manifold has a tendency to crack along the runner due to stress from supporting the turbo) I would also highly recommend a set of Z1 motor and transmission mounts and a whiteline poly diff bushing to actually put all of this power to the road. |
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