Yeah I already scraped the 32 row oil cooler but I went with an completely new long block so I am now debating on what to do with the blown one. Maybe I will just part out the heads and crank, etc... One things for sure, I miss driving my car and can't wait to get it all back together for some bad@ss reliable boost!!!

That's wassup. I hope you get it straight soon!

My 10.1 CP Pistons have arrived at VSR!!!! Now I m excited!!!!

Here is next item to be purchased soon..
Fuel Injector Clinic SP Line 1050cc Injector Set 350Z / 370Z / G35 / G37

I bought a set of Bosch 750cc's here on the forum but turns out the item was used when it was advertised as new. Called him on it and then received a threatening pm. Turns out the seller had a lot of pull here on the forum with the moderators and they did nothing after it was reported. You gotta love the politics here..

Really? What a crock of ****. Who was the member who scammed and threatened you so I make sure not to ever buy anything from him?

I will pm you his name just so this thread stays on topic...

Ok, I'm just wondering if it was the same guy I was talking to about injectors a while back.

Sorry to hear that. What bs.

It's all good, you live and learn... Talked to bobby at vsr yesterday and was informed that there were 2 builds in front of mine but atleast I know all of my parts are there and ready to go. I will post up some pics of the motor being cryo treated as soon as I get them..

Here is little info on cp pistons:

Piston Tech

Nom nom nom. Love it.

I'm now looking to purchase one of those vacuum bleeders for refilling my radiator fluid as was looking at this one on amazon.

Amazon.com: Robinair 75260 Coolant Refiller with Air Lock Preventer: Automotive

Anyone recommend a certain brand or model?

After much debate I decided on this model.
UVIEW 550500 AirLift II Economy Cooling System Refiller : Amazon.com : Automotive

Nice. Let us know how it works.

Got a call from vsr and they have the heads off and starting the engine bore today then off for the cryo treatment. I also ordered the KDT911 Whiteline Rear Diff Mount Bushing Kit from z1 to stop the wheel hop...Will post up pics as soon as he sends them...

The diff bushings made a big difference. Definitely hooks up better and there is less slope in the rear end on shifts. At the moment I'm still NA so I'll leave wheel hoping determination for those with real power.

Are you leaving the heads alone?

Yeah, from what I've read the heads flow pretty good already...:tup:

That's what it looked like to me. And from the thread where the guy who did cams and heads (Navyboy something or other) there was a lot of non reuseable VVEL parts that were expensive as hell.

Can we start throwing out wild *** guesses as far as power? I'll take 615.

I'm with you 600whp is enough for me considering our cars don't hook up well anyway. Hoping to be up and going in a few months...:driving:

Yeah, until we figure out how to get the rear camber right, it's all **** measurement over 450whp or so until you get halfway through 3rd. :rofl2:

Are you using OEM bearings? I recently learned ACL has main bearings and thrust washers for our engines. No rod bearings though.

OEM bearings...

I still can't get over gtm not going with a better fuel pump than that walbro 255 with the stage II kit considering it's just a bit more.

I've used a Walbro in every boosted car I've modified. I've never had any problems with one other than the fact it's not particularly quiet. I wish I had gone with the Aeromotive upgrade, but the Walbro seems to be just enough pump for a stock block kit.

It would have been nice if there was some headroom built into the kit, though. Everything seems to be "just enough".

Your right not saying the walbro 255 is bad or anything but going with bigger turbo output flowing more air an upgrade is well needed. I think the cost between the two is only like $20...

****, I'll bet the difference is even less at their cost. :rofl2:

That falls under the category of "**** I know now". If I had gone bigger on pump and injector the first time, it would have saved me some labor cost when I decide it's time to go for more power.

You mean the labor costs of making sure I've got enough bourbon to get me through the weekend project?

Yeah, some of us didn't have access to a garage with a lift when we ordered our turbo kits. :rofl2:

Some of us didn't throw the powertrain warranty in the trash can either. If I was offered that deal I would probably have happily handed the dealer a couple thousand to install

Let's hope I never have to find out if they really will warranty a motor. (knocks on wood).

Did you check to see if they would warranty the radiator labor considering they recommended and insatlled it?

Nah. They made it clear a failure of an aftermarket part not due to thair install wasn't their issue. I don't have a problem with that.

Sorry Cosmo, minor threadjack. ;)

:iagree:

It's all good...:tiphat:

Walbro 255 is no way near enough to support 600 WHP on pump gas..
The more boost the less LPH. Ive learned this the hard way.. The only way to get 600 WHP with single pump is E85, E85 will make a lot of HP without going that high of boost so that will the single enough for 600 etc

I think there are a few here that have made over 600whp on a single and stock fuel rails without e85...

Well it depends on the size of that single. You need 30% more fuel when running e85 to make the same amount of power than on 93. It would have to be a 340lph pump with 1000cc injectors to hit 600, this on stock rails and no fuel return system.

With 650cc injectors or higher and a fuel return system, 600rwhp on 93 is possible as well.

I have had a customer hit 670rwhp maxed out on a single walbro 255 with gasoline. Pressure was falling hard, but it made the dyno pull. This was on a low compression VQ35DE. A stock compression VHR should in theory be able to go a little further. A pump alone does not determine your fuel quantity at the rail. Remove all sources of pressure drop and you will lower operating pressure at the pump, increasing the pumps output. That said, I do not recommend attempting that power out of a 255.

The restrictive sources of pressure drop along the system will increase pressure at the pump to maintain the same rail pressure. The higher the volume, the more drop the restrictions will generate, and the more pump pressure is required to maintain rail pressure. If you can get your fuel pressure at the pump to be the same as pressure in the rails at the volume of fuel you need, you will see maximum results from the pump.

There is no benefit to overpumping a car... it makes sense to use a pump that is just over your needs. Remember that a fuel pump is not like injectors in the sense that injectors are working harder the harder you work them... a fuel pump is working its hardest all the time, from engine idle to full power. So there is no harm in running the pump for all its worth, because the pump doesnt know any better. You only need a little extra pump for occasions where you might overboost or its nice and cold out and you make an extra 30-40hp. Generally I think that people over-pump a car simply because they dont know precisely how efficiently their build is going to use the fuel its given, so they go big to prevent having to go back in.

:iagree:

pretty basic engineering there