Our stage II's must right around 35 pounds per min... Maybe I can squeeze out a few more hp with some other mods... Get it 'SQUEEZE', I crack myself up sometimes!!!! lol

indeed you are correct, on our engines you cant run that much boost. I just dug up those charts I sent you awhile back:

the 2863r is really only efficient to run up to 24psi at 7500rpm on our engine. pushing more boost would be over-spinning the turbo at higher rpm.

http://i.imgur.com/jS941zm.jpg


the 2867 is a good choice if you want to run a lot of boost, and would still be "on the map" at 30psi in higher rpm's.
http://i.imgur.com/jqoT0ll.jpg

looking at the plot you can see the 2867 is generally more efficient from 14psi +, so if you're going to upgrade turbos at all I would skip the 2863r, the 2867 is a great choice.

with all of that said, you can still hit 600whp with your current turbos, a bit more if you dont mind running e85 and over spinning them a bit at high rpm, so it really depends on what your goals are. I don't have the plot for the 2860rs any more but its basically the same as the 2863 except the 2860rs peaks around 2.5 PR and its .6 efficiency island (far right edge before over spinning) is where the .65 is on the 2863.

Awesome nick!!! Just got off the phone with bobby at vsr and he ordered my L19 Head Studs and they are still waiting on those pistons. I think I will go ahead and install the new fuel pump next week just to have that out of the way and hopefully soon phunk will have some of his goodies ready to be purchased... ;)

I am now debating on heat wrapping the exhaust manifolds.. Any thoughts ?

ceramic coating

I went with GTX2863 when I build my engine. I dont regret going that route at all but if i had to do it again ill put the 67s option on table and think about it twice before purchasing new turbos.

That being said. Ill be going with T25+ housing which is T3 size with T25 flange, and get a new Intake manifold from who ever release it first. That will help me achieve the power of standard GTX2867.

Didn't I read on your build thread that yours wore off or something like that?

local company did it the first time and didnt use proper coating for the temperatures. I sent all my stuff out to swain tech this time.

Well got a text from Bobby at VSR and my L19 Head Studs are in!!!!

Just want to wish everyone a Merry Christmas!!!!!!!!!!! ><////>

Well I haven't gotten any other work done on the car because I have been eating like a horse since Christmas... ha Next week I will be pulling the motor out and will post up some pics.
Happy New Year to everyone!!!

Well it's 26 degrees this morning and only warming up to 45 today so no new updates but I should be getting the stock motor out soon.... Also bobby at vsr is still waiting on my custom pistons to start the build..

I ran across these stiffer motor mounts from Megan today. Has anyone tried these yet compared to the Z1 mounts?

2013 Nissan 370Z Megan Racing Hardened Engine and Transmission Mounts

Megan racing is Chinese garbage. I can't specifically speak for their motor mounts, but their exhaust parts don't fit for ****.

Was 26 here yesterday, 34 today and will be 42 early next week (but is Celcius!!).

Man I feel for you folk in Nth America .... bun-freezing times, even for the Canadian who are used to it

Hey thanks chuck for the update, I think at this point I will just go with the z1 motor mounts.

Two days ago it got down to 16 degrees and I live right on the gulf of mexico.. brrr!!!

Still waiting on my cp pistons to come in.. !@#$%^&*(

Looking forward to seeing this thing come together :tup:

Never had an issue with ANY of their parts. 2 sets of test pipes. A few exhausts too.
And if you trust Agency Power, Megan Racing is the same brand

Agency Power is Vivid's house brand. I have major issues with that company because of the way they did business with the Subie community. For many years they were the only vendor to have been banned by Nasioc. They will never see a dime of my money. I'm guessing they just have Megan stuff rebranded Agency Power in the same Chinese sweatshop?

My Megan headers for my IS300 required a ton of massaging to fit right and not leak. The O2 bungs weren't even in the same zip code as the correct spot. I finally had to take a hammer to the firewall so I could put one of the O2s back in. :rofl2:

Just went through this thread. Good luck on the build Cosmo.

I am skipping most of the coatings and using WPC on all internals instead. Then Calico CT-2 Thermal Barrier Coating on Piston tops and Calico CT-5 oil-shedding coating on crankshaft counterweights, rods, windage tray and oil pain. Just in case you want to look into that as well.

Well I got a call today from bobby telling me the pistons should ship out next week from CP. After that the build should take about 2 weeks give or take since they are cryo treating everything but the pistons.

This Saturday the motor will be removed and will post pics..

I managed to get a little more work done on the car today. As I was taking off the plenum I heard metal fragments rolling around inside. My question now is how to clean the inside of the plenum since it does not come apart.. I know I could blow it out with some compressed air but that's still no guarantee it would all come out. If anything is left behind it will destroy my new motor..

Wow... Jeezus... Maybe with water too? Or some liquid to carry the metal out?

Mail it in to Z1 and use it as a core for their super secret manifold mod?

I wonder how well they'll hold 15-18PSI though with that much plastic taken off

I doubt they remove that much material, but they're being unnecessarily secretive. I'm pretty sure its a light cleanup inside.

I debated on the water method but just didn't want to have it air dry to possibly get contaminates inside.. This is the first time hearing about the z1 secret surprise. The last time I was there my secret surprise was a blown motor.. No more surprises for me!!! lol

If you know someone with a parts washer tank you could go flush it out there.

Get some tape, roll it up into a long tube and shove it into the plenum. THen you can shake it or use the compressed air and blow it inside till it all sticks on the tape.

Now that sounds like a cool idea but still no way of knowing its is all out... Just one little metal fragment could scar the cylinder wall.. I believe I read somewhere that the stock plenum could be opened but it wasn't easy. Wish we had more options on aftermarket plenums...

Can't open it unless you have a hot knife... A few days out in the sun will dry it out for sure. And/or I bet you can put it in the oven for a decent amount of time at 200-250 degrees then blow it out. Maybe repeat once or twice?

Buy a new plenum?

$300+/-

Kinda sucks, there is a guy selling one though

Well, it's that or be worried about a shard scrapping the cylinder wall.

Hate to say it but I may have too. The intake runner I will wash and dry really good and also inspect the turbo's Really well. I remember when it blew there were fragments that came out of the exhaust...

Ouch! You are scaring me............I need to get built soon, lol.

Make sure to inspect the heads as well. If u had an oil cooler check that as well. Make sure loose fragments all cleaned up.

yup gonna have to get a new plenum, I've seen the insides of one there are lots of nooks and crannies that just cant be flushed out, plastic from porting i wouldn't worry about but metal is a hell no.