So far so good but like I said only time will tell..

Get oil analysis done for every oil change. Metal shavings in oil pan = start of something bad, but I really hope I am wrong.

A new motor is expected to have fine metal shavings, now when I do the next oil change and there is even more than I know that isnt normal..

:iagree:

Send the oil to Blackstone. You at least want to know what trace metals are showing up. It'll tell you if it's normal or signs of something you should be concerned with. Just write the details on the slip and they will take it into account during their analysis

The new rings on the pistons are microscopically shaving as the rings heat up and form a seal to the cylinder. You can not possibly accomplish that with no metal making it to your oil.

Here is a pic of the magnetic drain plug. Also they did not do a 30 mile oil change after the dyno tune, bobby just confirmed..

sorry for the crappy pics..

That is not too bad on the magnet. It's hard to see though. The camera focused on the bolt, not the junk.

I would cut the oil filter apart and see what it looks like.

That is a lot of metal... I have built several engines, and yes a little bit of shavings are normal, but that seems to be excessive to me. It may be possible too that they just did a poor job when building it as far as cleanliness goes... Just my opinion from past experience. I really hope I am wrong though. If you see ANY next time you change your oil, I would say there is definitely a problem. Hope for the best!

I really hope that's just things breaking in and not breaking apart :/ You've been thought enough as is

This may be the wrong section to ask this question but I finally had a chance to install my new 305/30/19's and the handling on the rear is horrible. It feels as if the rear is loose with a lot of sway. The front tire size is 245/40.. At this point I kinda wish I would have the on the 285/35's.. Any thoughts or suggestions?

That's a pretty significant staggering. I go up to 265 or even 275 (and down to 35 profile) in the front when I run 305s on the rear. Stock sport wheels.

Thats what I was thinking too. Maybe the sidewall difference is causing the car to float in the rear.

:iagree: too much stagger

What are your front and rear wheel widths and the type of tire are you running? Too much sidewall on a softer compound will cause the issues you're describing.

All Hankok v12's, Front 245/40/19, Rear 305/30/19, 35 psi

IMO, I got tired of the V12s. They're good for the money, but the sidewall is too soft, grip gets worse as it wears down, and it doesn't last that long. For just a little more I'm super happy with the Continental DW. I think 305s are available now. My current setup is 265/35 and 285/35.

[EDIT] 305/30!!! :excited:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....DWXL&tab=Sizes

Man, I love me some Continental ExtremeContact DW tires. So far, they are easily my favorites. Excellent value and great grip wet or dry.

Yup, I have SO-4s in 305 and 265 and they have been good as well. These and Conti's are much better than the V12 from all the reviews I have read and folks I have talk to.

hmmmm ... my ps2's don't seem so bad now !
245/40/ ZR 19's in the front and 285/35/ ZR 19's in the back.
Very little to No tire squirm under load.

Just ordered some 285/35ZR19 Continental ExtremeContact DW's... nuff said

they probably left your rear suspension loose, had to take it off to get the steering rack brace off lol. (I kid, if the tire is too ballooned you will have increased tracking error which gets worse with a softer sidewall tire)

No joke... 2 years, and there's still plenty of tread. For the front, the inside is wearing out and making a little noise, but I've got no problems. The V12s barely lasted a year, and that's probably because it spun out so easily as it started to wear down. I think I'll replace the tires next year.

BTW, I had to adjust a bit going from 305 to 285. It felt a bit weird, as if the car would sometimes want to jump sideways on the freeway. Maybe my suspension isn't setup right [shrugs].

always been a RE-11 fan for daily driving. DW sidewalls are like marshmallows, the car will ride like a benz. NT01 or R888 for HPDE or hot summers are fun too.

check alignment, you may be suffering from a little bit of bump steer.

When I first installed my V12's on the rear, I had my stock bridgestones on the front. The car would float in the rear and "crabwalk" when shifting aggressively. Now that I have v12's on all 4 corners, the car is great. I hope these last longer then a year though. :|

Just wanted to give an update. So far so good, it feels like the motor is getting a bit smoother every time I drive it. Planning on doing another oil change sometime next week just to see how much build up the magnetic oil drain plug has on it..

Are you sending Blackstone Labs a sample after you get the break-in done?

Yes.. :driving:

Hopefully my block is in the shop, they were waiting for Nissan to sh%t out a crank. I'm having the motor balanced. Lesson #1: Don't f%xk with your DD kids. Lessons learned when you're an old dog hurt worse, but stupid SHOULD hurt.

Got my fingers crossed for you, man. You deserve a happy ending to the story.

Has anyone ever had a problem with the car not starting immediately after pushing the start button in while having the clutch pressed in? Yesterday I was out and the car would not start for some reason any about 3 tries. I mean it wouldn't even turn over but power was going to everything. It was almost as if the clutch pedal wasn't in far enough to press in the little sensor down there. Eventually it finally started but I can't figure why it took so many time for it to finally turn over. The battery is new so I know its not that. I'm going to look at the clutch sensor today to see if it may need adjusted..

Mine has done that before.. Like it needs gas. I found that if I push the button into acc mode then pressed the clutch in and pressed the button it starts right up. Kinda weird

Mine has done that too. I leave the clutch push in a few more seconds than usual and the car start without problem but it is something very weird.

Mine has done that. I can push the clutch and push the button. Nothing will happen for a few seconds and it will start. Like it's delayed. I don't have to repress the button though. That started for me after I pulled the fuse.

Now that you mention it i also started having the problem when i pull the steering lock fuse

I think mine did it on the second start up after the fuse pull lol. It doesn't bother me anymore. Just another little quirk of having a "modded" car (if you can call that a mod lol).

its the steering lock solenoid. the car wont start until its unlocked. if yours is getting sticky, i would pull the fuse on it in the unlocked position before it leaves you stranded on the side of the road.

after the fuse is unplugged, the car pretty much always has a lag to starting after you push the button. sometimes up to 2-3 seconds.

I have already removed the steering lock fuse a long time ago.. Thanks for the input..

Just did another oil change and wanted to post up a few pics. I managed to put almost 800 miles on the car since the last oil change and I would say by looking at the magnetic oil drain plug that there is about half or less than there was the last oil change..