Yes I have a lift but kept it low and used a engine hoist.

Would anyone be interested if I bought another bottom end for my existing motor and built it for a Forced Induction Application? These motors are not that easy to come by as the 350z motors...

You found another bottom end?

Harry,

Could you PM me maybe a ballpark cost? Possibly interested. Also, are you referring to a built bottom end, or just oem?

I can do either or.. Depending on what kind of internals you want if you go built. I do know s&r ordered another set of cp 10:1 pistons for another guy who wanted the same build as me when the word got out... Want my number?

Well it has come to my attention that this may happen in time with my exhaust manifold on my gtm TT kit so I am seriously considering changing kits. And I am sure they are not going to warranty it because they cant even keep up with the current demand now. Decisions decisions...:shakes head::shakes head:

Interesting. It does not look like it was actually leaking though, unless you cleaned it up. I would expect a lot more soot if it was leaking.

Sorry for your troubles!

Wouldn't it be a lot easier and cheaper to build some kind of bracket to support the weight of the turbo while the engine is out of the car?

I guess by that you mean you saw my post in my thread, downloaded my photo, and then uploaded it here

It wasn't leaking enough to notice any noise or a loss in spool, but this is something that would only get worse over time. we just happened to find it before sending the manifolds to swaintech

sure would, thats what I'm doing to prevent this from happening again.

Can you show us what you end up fabbing for a bracket? If/when I have to deal with this, I'd rather not re-invent the wheel if there's already a working design out there.

Since you will have a built engine, let me know if you decide to switch kits. I would love to see a twin scroll kit on a customer’s built VQ37VHR.

I think I have seen many manufacturer’s (JWT, APS, Garrett..ect) cast manifolds crack on the VQ35de, so this won't be any different despite the manufacturers stating that they never crack, and that these cast manifolds are superior to those that are welded...go figure. The T25 turbos are light, so this does not happen due to weight, it happens because of poor casting. Welding a support bracket will make things worse, because now you are making things rigid. Rigid and thermal dynamics don’t work well at all, and more cracking will occur. This is why I use so many flex couplers on the twin scroll kit. Everything must be able to move independently.

EDIT: Of course, and I forgot to mention, there would be some good incentives.

Your absolutely right I did use your pics to state my concerns and I do apologize for not asking first. :shakes head: Please forgive...:tiphat:

Had a long day so no work done today and no pics but tomorrow I have time before my afternoon appointments...

Does anyone know what kind of power I will get out of the gtm stage II turbo's maxed out? I am guessing 600whp -ish?

Nizzing with a stage 2 GTM kit hit just over 600whp at 13PSI.
Highest build I have recorded is below, with a built block:
Mr. Squeeze:
2010 370z 6MT GTM Stage 3 TT at 19PSI 647HP & 613TQ

gt28rs with .86 AR (stage 2) on 93 is good for around 600whp. On e85 or with meth you could certainly push them higher, but at 7500rpm at 18psi you are at the very edge of the turbos efficiency. Running more than that on our engine you would start to overspin the turbos up top, which would shorten their life and blow warmer air, so e85/meth would be a must to compensate. This is assuming around 10:1 CR

If you are considering switching to a single turbo (any kit on the market, or custom) just make sure you go with a large T4 turbine housing on the built motor. I would suggest the Precision 67mm billet turbo with a T4 1.32 a/r twin scroll (largest available for that urbo), or if you are going with a tangential housing, you can go to a .96 a/r turbine housing. Anything smaller and you will lose out on a lot of power.

Here are some pics I took from working about 4 hours this morning getting ready to pull the blown motor. Sasha can you tell me what kinda of difference the spool would be coming from a TT setup to a single? I may be interested only if I can sell my gtm TT kit for a decent price.

Since your building the block and already have the gtm kit, have you thought about just upgading the turbos to a stage 3 or 4? As well as bigger injectors and pump? Prob a fuel return kit also at this new power level.

Actually I have but I think with just over 600whp I would be more than happy... Plus I do not care to deal with gtm and their customer service issues...:tup:

With those turbos on a 350z with E85 we were maxed out at about 630rwhp. The car was pretty strong, but he sold the kit a few months ago to go bigger.

If your goal is 600whp, the 62mm turbo will do it effortlessly on pump gas. At the same time it will still leave room for some more if you decide to kick it up a notch.

Hey phunk I just wanted to say thanks for the help today with the fuel pump. Please keep me up to date when your return fuel system s finished. I checked out the link you sent me and the new intake and it looks Great!!!:tup::tup:

Sorry, I missed this one. The spool will be as good as with your current TT setup (and I would get you the BB option at no extra charge), but a lot more efficient up top. The turbos I use are equivalent to the Garret GTX line of turbos since they have the lighter billet wheel, and can work at a higher pressure ratio. These turbos don't even start to shine until you get to 20+psi of boost.

Here is a pull on the heart breaker dyno on a built VQ35DE with a 8.5:1 compression ratio. This was done with the largest turbo/turbine I offer with this kit, the 6766 with a 1.32 a/r turbine housing. This was also a JB turbo, and the same twin scroll kit I build for the VQ37VHR. The higher CR of your build, more displacement and BB option will all help in spooling it up even better. I would guess that you would see 15psi by about 3700rpm. That will be plenty to get 500ft/tq out of a built engine at about 4000rpm.


http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps0bcb78b5.jpg

Here is another dyno, also a VQ35DE, with a twin scroll, JB 6766 T4 1.15 a/r kit. This is a completely stock block, that is why the torque was kept at about 400ft.:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps6fba381b.jpg

As you can see, these spool up great, and the power keeps climing all the way to redline due to the large turbine housing which allows the system to flow efficiently.

Man those graphs look really smooth and easy to drive, especially the stock-block one. It's tempting :)

Good time to check the plastic intake manifold for cracks.

Well I made a little more progress today along with purchasing a Aeromotive 11142 Fuel Pump....:tup:

Those dyno graphs look really nice.. I would switch kits if I could a decent amount for my gtm TT kit but I really doubt it...

Any other suggestions on parts before the new engine goes back in? Was considering different motor mounts..??

I was actually going to suggest this earlier, but I forgot. Do the motor mounts. I wish I had done them with my install. Once the motor is in, there's too much turbo plumbing in the way to swap them out easily. Do the tranny mount too, although that one is apparently an easy DIY with everything in place. Also, consider swapping the heater hoses out for the Z1 silicone ones for longevity purposes.

Another thought- what about the Nismo oil pump? That way you can raise the redline and not have to worry about the OEM pump puking its guts out at 8k rpm.

It's funny you mention the oil pump because PHUNK is currently working on one from a GTR for that very same reason.
Please excuse my ignorance but how will the solid motor mounts help??

Oh, I wouldn't go with the solid ones unless it's a race car. I'll be going with the poly ones from Z1. On every car I've put them on, harder motor and trans mounts just tightened up the feel of the entire drivetrain. It's a noticable difference. There's just less slop. On/off throttle transitions don't have to compress the soft stock mounts anymore before the power reaches the wheels.

Hey thanks chuck, I will go ahead and order them do you have a link?

Not offhand, but I'm sure you've got a link to Z1 on your computer already. We all do. :rofl2:

Found them, and here is a link for others who may need them..

Z1 Motorsports 370Z/G37/R35 Urethane Motor Mounts

Here is a list of my build as of now.

1. Custom CP Pistons 10:1 (.5mm over)
2. K1 Connecting Rods
3. ARP Head Stud Kit (L19's) OEM Head Gaskets
4. Cryogenics
5. Aeromotive 11142 Fuel Pump
6. 1000cc Injectors
7. Z1 Motorsports Urethane Motor Mount

I am open to any other suggestions that may help the longevity of my engine... :tiphat:

Are you going to need bigger injectors?

On the head studs...L19's are a must on built motors IMO. Not a bad deal here:

ARP VQ37VHR L19 Head Studs

Too many guys on the VQ35 have gone with VHR head studs, or L17's, only to have head lift issues as soon as they get off the dyno.

So you think I may have issues with the ARP 202-4701's? When I checked on the tq specs it showed 85 ft...

in case you missed it from page 1, I would do everything on the list if you can