No that wasn't me in the video but I did meet that guy in person.. Thanks for the advise on the tires, I will keep researching because I want a well rounded tire not just for the turns..

look at RE-11's. i just switched to them from PSS's this year and fell in love with them. very sticky. got about 8k miles or so on mine and still cant break em loose from a stand still unless theres water.

running 265/35/19 up front and 305/30/19 out back on OEM sport Rays.

I wasnt able to determine what sort of dyno your car was run on, so I am unable to directly compare the power you are making to my experience.

However... youre asking a lot of a tire. I literally do not recommend any 305/30/19 for a TT 370z :) But if you must, go as aggressive competition grade as you are willing. I dont think you will find any of them to hook up first or second gear. The best I ran in that size was the Toyo R888 but it seemed like it lost a lot of its grip after a few weeks.

No more rear camber for you, dial it all out!

RE11s are great tires but they dont stand a chance on his car now! IMHO

I went through my rear RE11s faster than a set of R888s.. they just sit and spin with the turbos.

i understand but he said no DR's/Track tires lol so RE-11s are one of my favorites i've experienced of street tires.

the R888's look sick and have grip but like you said you toasted them in no time.

Ya true, for non-competition tires I like the RE11. They really held great in the twisties for a "normal" tires.

Most people I know with 500+ rwhp in their cars have multiple sets of wheels and tires... like personally I have 3 sets for the rear. Without AWD, its almost impossible to avoid.

In that case look into Zfever racing, I think they are just fever racing now.

This is very true. I have much less than 500 and I felt the need for 4 sets.

Then my turn. Hopefully before October!

Yokohama Advan Neova Ad08 r

Thanks Cosmo ...
Couldn't quite figure out if that was you or not in the video ...

I did notice that there were NO warning/CEL lights ... Awesome Tune.

Didn't mean to get too too down on the ps2's ...

I'm on my 3rd set of rears (285's/295's) and the 2nd set of fronts.
Managed about 12k miles on the rears ... about 1 season's worth.
Stuck with them to avoid changing all 4 at once.
The car was my daily driver for about 3 years.

With the power you're making I don't think any tire is going to give you the traction solution you need.

On the Stillen SC'r I was making 420 whp and still able to light them up into 3rd. with the VDC off.

I did install the RaceLogic Traction Control in an attempt to tame the traction issue.

It works really well for normal/spirited driving...but the jury is still out for the dragstrip (at least for me that is).
The Launch Control feature is iffy and damn near useless.

The digital controller is not user friendly and takes forever to program and experiment with...but once it's set it is good to go.
And it does it's job well ...
Once you have it dialed in you can safely womp on the throttle and it will keep the car straight...even in the rain...and within reason of course.

You can also (permanently) turn off the factory VDC in the UpRev tune, which is good.
The Traction Control will then default to the RaceLogic.

The RaceLogic can be ordered with a plug and play harness which makes installation easier.


Food for Thought

However... youre asking a lot of a tire. I literally do not recommend any 305/30/19 for a TT 370z :) But if you must, go as aggressive competition grade as you are willing. I dont think you will find any of them to hook up first or second gear. The best I ran in that size was the Toyo R888 but it seemed like it lost a lot of its grip after a few weeks.

No more rear camber for you, dial it all out![/QUOTE]

So what do you recommend? ;)

The largest stickiest tires on the smallest diameter wheels you are willing to run, with the least amount of negative camber as you are willing to accept!

Attached is an image of the only thing I have found that will hook up first gear, and even then it takes a little heat in them. You have to change the rear brakes, and the handling isnt very good, and the VDC and ABS systems do not work. So its just a question of how bad you want to hook up and what you are willing to sacrifice when you want to do it.

Those style of tires will also put a ton more stress on the whole drive train as well. Just saying. :D

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I527 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2

Actually its the other way around. Not that there is really anything to worry about besides the axles anyway.

The race logic TC is does not work at the drag strip. My car ran slower times with it.
But the car ran straight as an arrow.
there is no launch control for a 7 AT with that system.

I emailed them about this
If I ever get my built motor from GTM ,I will post how it works with the stage 3 set up.

" IT COULD BE A VERY LONG TIME TO GET THE MOTOR FROM GTM".
15 MONTHS AND STILL WAITING.

Z

Race Logic is an awesome system but I agree its not for the drag strip.

It doesnt actually increase traction, it just reduces power to dial back wheel slip. Sort of funny when you think about it... spending all that money to make more horsepower, then spending more money to buy a system that turns it back down, lol.

If you want to go faster, youve got to increase actual traction.

If I ever get my engine from GTM I will be ordering the fuel system that we talked about a few months ago from you.

you are a great guy to talk to about fuel systems ..

Z

Is this engine free or something? 15 months!? Fawk gtm. Go ipp!

Yes it is a bit ironic, isn't it ... :iagree: ... Spinning the wheels and going sideways doesn't increase forward progress.

The (digital) Race Logic does have an available option that will allow you to increase the max slip rate from 25% to 50%.
Combine that with setting the initial(TC) engagement to 3500 rpm or so and you have a safety buffer that will allow you to still be aggressive and will react quicker than you in an emergency situation ... at least in theory.
That was one of the things I wanted to try before the motor went poof.

It still all boils down to knowing your car and maximizing available traction in any given circumstance.

From the GTM site:

Nismo Final Drive 3.917 as opposed to OEM 4.08 (MT)

https://www.gtmotorsports.com/produc...cat=270&page=2

Better transfer of power to the pavement / traction ?
Anybody have experience with this ?

Who in their right mind would purchase anything from gtm right now due to their poor business practices...

i am running hankook ventus r-s3 305 x 35 /19. there not to bad.

i was waiting for the first person to coment about that one lol

they're*

:tiphat:

yikes...:eek:

I'm guessing that these are available from Nissan ??? I included the link as an illustration...I know about Sam and GTM.

Back to the main point - Any input as to the concept of utilizing a lower final drive to more efficiently handle the added power ?

Don't forget the *too also.

:tiphat:

i was being nice with only one correction lol :tup:

the factory final drive is 3.69, 3.9 would be moving to a smaller final drive gear and worse for traction with boost. what you want is the 350z final drive (3.53) or the automatic final drive (3.3).

I'm totally changing the subject here but is anyone going to zdays? I don't even know when the next one is.. Ready for a road trip to the mountains or something, anyone interested?

you're off by a few months, spring of 2015 would be the next one :icon17:

Will check in to this ... THANKS ! ... Ahhhhh : At last !!! :tiphat:
Makes perfect sense to go to a different ratio when drastically increasing the power... just didn't know where to go.

...wuz under the impression that my '09 6MT was 4.08 Final Drive ...
need to double check my info.

NASA is at Sebring Oct 4th-5th.

Sebring Events | National Auto Sport Association - Florida Region

Hello esfourteen :tiphat:

Did a little more legwork ...

Checked the Nissan stats for the 370z and you are right ... 3.69 is OEM factory final drive.
Here comes the curve ball ...

After having owned the car for about 6 months - I - (along with my mechanic) decided on the Stillen SC'r for more streetable power.

Some wheel spinning later thanks to the added HP ... we decided to upgrade the OEM hydraulic LSD to the Quaife 1.5 LSD.

The supposed final drive was to be 4.08 ... and that's what I thought it was for 3 years even tho' I wasn't able to detect any discernable difference in actual use.

Turns out that the OEM final drive gears hadn't been changed at all, and the car was still OEM at 3.69.

I wish I would have know this long long ago.

Thanks for your input - it gave me that Eureka moment of understanding.
I will now see how the car runs with the built motor and new SC'r.

First need to know the shift points especially at the max in 4th when I get it to the track again.

Then decide on the final drive based on what the car does at the track ...

Hopefully I might be able to do that this season.

Again, thanks for looking deeper in to my question and coming up with the answer I needed.

I'm running the quaife lsd and it works great. Way less wheel hop and on good new tires I can keep from spinning 3rd. 1st n 2nd still useless tho.

Hey Cosmo !
AOK to change the subject ... ...:usa:...

You've shown us that there is light at the end of the tunnel.
Glad you got your car back and it's running great !

Enjoy !

Just want to post a follow up so far.
I decided to do another oil change and my magnetic oil drain plug was full of small metal shavings. I will do another in about 600 miles just to see how much metal will be on the magnetic plug then but whats weird is the car hasn't burned any oil at all. I would have thought it would have burned some during this break-in period. Other than that I
m still having to go over a lot of the small things vsr missed while putting my car back together..

Damn what all have they missed?

When they didn't reinstall my under tray (skid pan) it worn some of my fender lining off at the bottom, one oil sensor unplugged, shifter boot not on correctly, clamps on the intercooler piping put half assed on, also forgot my steering plate that connects the steering ram to the sub frame, etc, etc. What I don't get is why did they even have to take any of those things off just to drop the tranny to install a rear main seal. I think one of there boy scouts screwed something up so they had to fix it... Only time will tell folks..

:/ gl COSMO

For the love of God man.. That's just ridiculous. Engine still running smooth though?