I feel for you Cosmo... You are right to feel that way. It's not peanuts, u paid the guy thousands of dollars. Hope there's a happy ending for you (no pun intended)!

Bobby called me this morning to give me a verbal update on my car and I can't tell you how much better I feel. Like I said before the main seal is in and he actually cranked it up. He said it idle fine enough though he hasn't adjusted the fuel pressure and idle yet and the car would be on the dyno Thursday. Will be sure to post up a dyno..

Good to hear, dude. Hope things keep moving in a positive direction :tup:

Looks like the end might be in sight !! :)

Glad to hear Bobby's on it ... and keeping in touch especially with good news.

Got a call this evening on my car and they cranked the car and let it idle for an hour and adjusted the fuel pressure to 52psi. He said it idled nice and smooth so tomorrow and Thursday he is going to put some miles on it before getting the 1000cc injectors in there before hitting the dyno on Thursday. The dyno will session will be recorded and the dyno posted up. It's put up or shut up time people.. Any dyno estimates? I'm hoping for just over 600whp at around 15-16 psi with that compression ratio..

Hell yeah! How many miles does it take roughly for break in? Hope you get some solid reliable numbers off your build man. It's been a long time coming! Just sent my Z off today.. It should be at VSR this weekend or early next week. Hoping they can get it right like it should've been in the first place.

if you switched to external wastegates and can hold 16psi to redline, you should be around 600-620whp based on the numbers I saw

Since the gtm kit uses t3 style actuators could always just use aftermarket dual port internal gate actuators

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I tried that, it didn't help much, boost would fall off hard around 6500rpm, 17psi down to 12-13. That was using turbonetics dual port actuators set to 13psi and a go fast bits electronic boost controller that has closed loop correction.

I'm guessing around mid to high 500s. Esfourteen is right.
What you will have should be a dependable block for awhile. Do u know if he's gonna tune a low boost setting and break it in that way? Would better to break in on a low boost setting.

Were you using a 2 port or 3 port boost control solenoid? You should be using the boos pressure to hold the valves shut and the 3 port is the only way to go

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And by 3 port i mean it has three nipples and a bleed so maybe 4 port? Takes boost from the manifold and feeds it only to the side of the wastegate holding it shut until it switches open to bleed that side to air and feed boost to the open side of the actuator, it alows you to hold boost pressure+spring pressure of exjaust bqck pressure which on an internal gate garret is already at half the measured backpressure due to the size of the gate. The only reason to switch to external gates is if you are spiking where in the gate is physically too small to bypass enough gas to control the speed of the turbo.

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They run 25-45hz so it may or may not be compatible with your current controller, ive seen guys run them from 2- over 30psi with a 2lb spring

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Edit: part number for the valve is MAC 46A-AA1-JDBA-1BA the are typically $65-70 although haltech aem and turbosmart will sell you the same valve as an upgrade for $120-250

that valve plus a turbosmart eboost2 = WIN

Edit2: you need actuators something like this to use a 4 port solenoid on internals http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-Turbo-In...1dbebf&vxp=mtr

full race also gets one from forge might want to ask them about it. also turbonetics sells a more affordable sealed dual port actuator

also note the GFB Gforce2 should work with the four port valve i mentioned so for roughly $150 you could have bought the solenoid and two of the sealed 7psi 2port actuators and run all boost your turbos could supply.

They will break it in on low boost settings. The wastegates spring is 9 or 10 so not too much control will be needed with the boost controller but the gain..

As i mentioned in my post, this is exactly what I did. it held boost easily until 6500rpm, and then fell on its face.

In which case it probably didn't fall on it's face either it was getting mid range spike and then coming back down towards redline, or the valve was setup incorrectly.

Makes sense to me and would explain the situation. Are you aware of anyone else having the same issue?

holding 17psi from 3800rpm until 6500 rpm is not a "midrange spike", and everything was setup correctly.

Your guys up there in ny can't figure out whats wrong and whats the status of your motor?

I gave up trying to fix it, switching to externals. Just about ready to pull the engine, waiting on the engine slingers from Nissan to make it easier to hoist it out. I'm swapping in a low mileage stock engine myself.

So let me get this straight your going back to na ?

no he's switching to external gates on a newer stock block.

never. stock block, 12ish psi on e85

So esfourteen, u had stock block then went to built block n now going back to stock block? Built block failed?

correct

Originally when I built, I thought I had knock, but later found out it was just a broken stock flywheel. I was overly paranoid and thought the noise was light knock so I bought a spare blocked and built it.

The built block failed due to knock, too much boost/timing for 93 octane.

Now I'm going back to a stock block. Why? $2400 shipped for a low mileage block, which is about what I'd pay for a built block, but it would take longer and you run the risk of assembly error. The stock block has proven to handle over 600hp with e85, and thats more than is really useful for the street. I may eventually build another engine but for now I just wanted to drop something in complete that I know will work.

They didn't get enough miles on the new motor to today to do the dyno but should be good by next week. Will keep updating.. Have a great weekend everyone!!

You also thanx for the info, But could drive it enough, LOL use it to go get lunch :)

Im sure this has been posted a few times already, but what are the specs on your motor again? I went back a few pages and couldn't find anything.

Someone please tell me he's joking..

I don't know... sounds like he did some pretty thorough searching :ugh2:

At max posts per page, this thread is at 26 pages. On the default setting it's probably closer to 100 pages.

Nope not joking, but from your response I'm not expecting an answer.

Never claimed to have searched "thoroughly". I'm still on the default setting so this is page 69 for me.

I will post it up later.. Its all good..

10.1 Custom CP Pistons
K1 Rods
ARP L19 Head Studs
Cryogenics treatment for the block and connecting rods
Stock heads
CSF Radiator
10 degree cooler thermostat
34 Row Oil Cooler with thermostatic sandwich plate
CJM Fuel Return system
cjm fuel pressure gauge
Aeromotive Stealth 340 fuel pump
Fuel labs fuel pressure regulator
Z1 upgraded motor mounts
Z1 rear diff poly bushings

Should have my car back this Friday or sat... oh with a new main seal...

Well I got a call today from bobby today saying the clutch slave cylinder went out today. I already have the HD csc installed but now this blows my mind. He also said there was a small coolant leak in which they should be able to fix so maybe tomorrow so they can get some miles on it before the tune.. At this point everything has been replaced in the car.

Did you replace the CMC too? I find it hard to believe you had the HD CSC go out unless it was just faulty.

These CMCs seem to be one use items.

No I didn't replace the clutch master cylinder but I guessing the car sitting up for almost a year could have failed due to moisture... I should have just bought an gtr..

The CMC is $100. If you didn't replace it, my money is on that's the issue not the CSC

Heard you'll be on the dyno Thursday.. Best of luck my friend.