you gave your opinion and i gave mine. there really is no place for stereotyping or taking shots. yours is definitely still your opinion even though you stated it like fact. adding spacers adds an additional slip plain to the fasteners and additional moment arm to the assembly. that equates to more stress. stress outside what Nissan calculated for is taking a risk regardless of how much risk it actually is. I'm not comfortable with the risk considering what could happen if you have a failure but each his own. if you have a spacer caused failure on the freeway God hope you don't hurt anyone else. I never said trust me I'm an engineer and I never would. :facepalm:

that would probably do it. you could probably just get away with pulling the coils and not actually removing spark plugs.

chuck and I thought that since we completely removed and blew down the rail, then pulled the fuel pump relay we would be good. damn thing fired up on the first crank. guess you live and learn.

Ok guys lets stay on topic here so we don't get shut down.. :tiphat:

:tup:

We definitely want a posted video the first time this baby comes alive again. You've been down way too long

Well after charging my battery it seems it will not hold a charge. When I get into the car the driver side power window chatters until it is closed.. I will disconnect the battery and take it to the auto parts store to be checked.

if you have a battery charger with start assist you can try to cook the battery a little and bring it back to life so long as there is enough electolyte in it i usually like to do 250 amps on 10 seconds off ten seconds a few times then 40 amps for 20-40 minutes and then a 10 amp charge for a couple hours and finish it with a 2 amp overnight. the high amps work to cook the oxidation off the plates, just watch it to make sure it doesn't start boiling or it could explode. If the electrolyte is low then your screwed.

And always remember to store your batteries on something rubber or plastic. Never on something cold or concrete

It's been in the car the entire time disconnected but I guessing since it sat so long it went bad. The battery is 4 years old... Thanks for the help...

Any ideas on a new battery? Maybe a lighter one? I believe the cranking amps is 320.. Anyone running a Odyssey PC680?

Those little batteries are nothing but a hassle in a street car. Make sure you keep jumper cables in the car!

What about this one? Anyone know what the stock battery weighs?

Amazon.com: Odyssey PC925 Automotive and LTV Battery: Automotive

I just replace mine. I got it at Auto Zone, dry cell with a 3 year replacement warranty. I didn't weigh it but it felt about the same and is smaller in size than oem. They get great reviews and you got the love their commercials lol!

I have found that our cars require 490 cca but I found a Braille battery with 475cca that weighs only 17lbs... Anyone running this one??

Went ahead and and just bought a walmart battery with a 5 year warranty. The weight saving isn't worth being stranded with all I have invested in my car..

Wise choice... I have limited personal experience with the small odyssey batteries. But that is intentional. I look into them every few years to see if the situation has improved much and when I interview my friends who run them, they like everything about them except how often their battery is dead.

there are some new improvements in the very high end lightweight batteries, mainly the lithium replacements. there are some that are smaller, lighter, and due to the linear output of lithium cells can still start the car even when almost discharged, but at 1500 and up they are cost prohibitive even if they have a 20 year rated life.

As of about 15 min ago the car is ready to be started!!!! I will want to go over everything tomorrow just to make sure everything has been checked before the first startup.. Thinking on videoing it...

Time for Startup!!!:driving::driving:

Hey I only want to see a video if it cranks and runs OK. Anything else would be too sad.

Come on brotha your killing me here... lol As if I'm not nervous enough....


QUOTE=Fountainhead;2878859]Hey I only want to see a video if it cranks and runs OK. Anything else would be too sad.[/QUOTE]

Did you ever started your car?

Actually I just sold my house and had to move the car to a friends house until I can get into my new house. I'm planning on working on it over there and should only take a few hours before the first startup.. Will video the startup and post it up..

congrats on the new house and move. those are super stressful, GL!

Before being transported..

Nice!

Happy 4th everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Any tips on recharging the a/c system?

Take it to a corner mechanic and ask him to charge it:tiphat:

It is what I did when I swapped to the CSF

I should be able to recharge it using the low side line.. Don't take anything to the corner mechanic..

I would probably take it and have a vacuum pulled on it. Only saying that for how long your lines were unconnected. Did you blow out the condenser on the CSF?

You could try doing it yourself. I believe you fill thru the low and bleed out the high but to be honest I didn't pay that much attention to what my tuner was doing considering I didn't have the tools needed to do it myself.

The radiator from csf didn't come with any instructions so I'm needing to know what you guys had to do with your csf radiator to get in charged for the a/c? I know to use the low side but didn't know the radiator had special instructions concerning the a/c and condenser..

Mine didn't have any instructions either. My tuner just told me to blow compressed air thru the condenser to make sure nothing was in it and reconnect the lines. That's all I did.

Right on, thanks..

:tiphat:

Yes, you need to pull a vacuum on the system once you connect it back up. It will remove the air will also help you check for leaks. This will prevent contamination of the system. IF you get an air pocket in the system you will see an increase in pressure while the system runs. It will rise up and fall as the air passes through. You can vacuum the system with a machine or gauge set with a vacuum pump. The best way is with an R134a A/C machine. You can then put the correct weight of refrigerant in the system and oil, if needed. If you have a good amount of miles on the car, It is a good idea to replace the receiver dryer. This is the filter for the system. It filters out all of the moisture and trash.

Sorry but sold my old house and my car is at a friends house. The only thing needed is to bleed the clutch and fill with antifreeze. The gtm base map is in there so I will run that long enough for the engine break-in then go to tampa for my final tune and install my 1000cc injectors.. This really sucks because I'm so close....

All good things come in time, look forward to seeing you back up and running. Congrats on the new place.

What did you end up doing with your cracked exhaust manifold? Sorry if it was already posted and I missed it.

Had a bit of fab work done to it and also supported that side of the turbo with a metal strap... Only time will tell..

Update for an awful day with my car. To make a long story short I found out that when my vsr built my motor they did not replace my rear main seal. Needless to say when I went to start the car today oil was coming out at a steady stream. Is it just me or wouldn't you think they would have replaced that when rebuilding my new motor? At this point I'm Disgusted.