the turbo acts as a thermosiphon, the coolant flows up because heat rises, this video demonstrates the effect



The main benefit of watercooled turbos is this thermosiphon effect which prevents heatsoak after shutting off the car from damaging the bearing system, properly oriented turbos/water lines will continue to pull water through the turbos without a pump.

Alright very cool, I now have an idea and will post up some pics tomorrow. Thanks again esfourteen for much insight...

Whats gets me is gtm setup the kit that way with no water flowing through the turbos. If you think about it the water is just capped off but allowing the thermosiphon effect..

As of yesterday the motor is finally finished and ready to go back in. After no help from RAD in ny I still managed to come up with a solution in which will should help support the drivers side turbo. Here is a pic of the EV14 Bosch 1000cc injectors I went with. I still may wrap the exhaust manifolds just to slow down the cooling process and heat inside the engine bay. Still need a 34 row oil cooler core and buy some oil for the break-in... My plan is to run the gtm map with the 600cc injectors that came with the kit and then drive to vsr and install the new ones before bobby tunes it..

Can VSR not send you a base map to drive there on? At the very least I'd do some data logging of what's going on with the GTM map and your new motor before I got out on the highway for a long drive.

:iagree:

Not to mention that you are probably going to want a break-in map.

no break-in map but a lot of throttle control.. lol I'm about to order some motul 5-30 breakin oil and run that for about 600 miles...

That's going to be the hard part. IRC your car has been down for over a year...Keeping your foot out of it is going to take more control than a teenager trying to stop at just putting the tip in:roflpuke2:

Come on brotha not a year.. lol

My heat wrap should be in today so hopefully next week I will have the motor back in.. Stay tuned..

After speaking with chuck her on the forum I have decided to go with a thermostat from a 2008 g37 since it opens at 170degrees instead of 180.. Thanks again chuck..

http://www.amazon.com/OES-Genuine-W0...33-1725928-OES

Any little bit helps as hot as it gets in FL or TX.

I'm running it too. Car read outside temp of 98deg this week and it's only April. Gotta love Texas summers.

Just ordered a new Setrab 34 row core and a CSF Radiator.. Between that and the lower thermostat and heat wrap for the tubo's and manifolds hopefully this will address the heat issues in the hot summer...

Make sure your tuner addresses the fan tables. Sam doesn't really do much with them and that probably makes the biggest difference.

i think your outside temp is off man. haha it was warm in houston the last few days, but not 98! not yet at least.:icon14:

Maybe at intake level sitting on the freeway in traffic? Either way it's starting to get hot, dammit.

Mine has histroically run 5-6deg hot

The car ambient temp is always 5-8 degrees higher than what it is actually reported because of heat off the road, exhaust, etc.
Sitting in traffic on the beltway I can see 10 degrees higher than actual ambient temps per the car sensor and I would believe it. Though with my fan speed, CSF, thermostat, vented hood my water temps stay at 200 and peak at 208 now in full traffic.

i agree in traffic the outside temp will clime on mine too.

Monday I will wrap my turbo's and begin reinstalling the motor. Here are a few things I have waiting to go in and still waiting for my setrab 34 row oil cooler and thermostat..

Anyone happen to know the torque specs on the flywheel and clutch right off hand? After I get that back on I will mate the tranny and get that thing in the car...

Both of these are for my 2010 G37 but the clutches are the same

Pressure Plate

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G37/Coupe/2010/CL.pdf - CL-21

Flywheel

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G37/Coupe/2010/EM.pdf - EM-121

Thanks man!!!

Got my turbo's/exhaust manifolds wrapped and new thermostat in yesterday. I'm just about to get it off the engine stand so I can install the clutch and flywheel. Thanks again for the link..

:tiphat:

Here's link for actual 370Z if you want to dig thru. I can't imagine there are any differences in clutch/flywheel

Index of /FSM/370Z/Coupe

Crap, I can't find my clutch alignment tool... The flywheel is on...

Well I'm postponed until my clutch alignment tool arrives...

Got my gtm 3" down pipes wrapped and my csf radiator in.

Titanium wrap

Got my flywheel and clutch on finally since I had to order another clutch alignment tool so now the only thing left to go on before dropping the built motor is the CJM S1 RFS system I just purchased. Charles told me with the motor out it would be a lot easier to do the install. Turbo's and 3" gtm down pipes are wrapped up for heat and my new csf radiator should help with heat. This week I will tackle the rear diff bushings.

Any updates yet Cosmo?

It's been so busy lately and other projects I have I know I need to finally get this motor in there. I have almost finished the fuel return system and just need to heat wrap the fuel lines. Tonight I may drop the motor in... What really bothers me now is Bobby not sending my blue-print of my built motor after I have requested it several times.
Btw how is your TT kit holding up, any issues?

i can understand your concern Cosmo. you'd think a copy would have been presented with the motor almost as a sign that it was done. kinda like getting an alignment print out.

maybe they just forgot and its on a thumb drive somewhere!

I'm looking for a small fire extinguisher for mount behind the front seats on the cross bar support. Remember seeing one a while back in a pic someone posted up but cant find it now..

well the brackets are $4, and the extinguisher is around $40, go to the nearest store with fishing supplies it's just a boat extinguisher.

You should get an AFFF fire system with nozzles in the passenger compartment and the engine bay, e.g. E.S.S. 2.3 Liter AFFF SFI Fire System - SafeRacer . Way easier to grab a pull-cable on the dash if the car's on fire than try to wrestle with a manual extinguisher mounted behind you. If it's still a street car, running the lines unobtrusively (hide them behind the plastics?) is a little challenging, but it would be way worth it if you ever did have an engine fire.

Yeah just remember not to breathe in the halon or you will die, every street car should have one.

Edit: Wait cosmo you should get one.

Maybe I should hang some fishing lures up as well.

I'm not kidding they are boat extinguishers, fire departments regulate cylinder size and type so if you get one that is refillable they are all the EXACT same thing. or you can get a fancy one this is from livorsi marine http://www.livorsi.com/images/catalog/access//fem.gif

or one of these but they are bitch to work with gloves onhttp://www.safefiredirect.co.uk/Prod...tinguisher.jpg