Alright as of today I ordered a long block from VSR out of tampa with custom 10.1 CP pistons, ARP Head Studs (85ft lbs) and a cryogenic treatment of most everything. Have to wait 4 weeks on the pistons and roughly another 2 weeks for the build. Also need a DW65A fuel pump since the one that gtm provides (walbro 255)is only good for around 5oowhp and also need some 1000cc injectors. The 255 may actually work with the larger injectors but why chance it..

What kind of rods? Did you get the coatings on the pistons?

Good call on the fuel pump, it's too cheap to not do.

K1 rods... They said the pistons didn't need it because of the material. Those cp pistons are supposed to be bad to the bone...

Wierd. Who said that? CP or the shop? CP offers the coatings if they're the same pistons as the ones phunk is having made.

Your right I was taking about the cryo treatment..

The coatings are not really required if you ask me. I wont be personally getting them. Lots of my friends choose to use them, I have not yet.

It's real hard to prove they do anything outside of a lab environment, but for another $150 or so on a motor build I figure what the hell.

I is very excite

I am not going to have them treated even though its only $150
Will start working on pulling the motor tomorrow and will take some pics if anyone is interested?
Here is a good article on cryogenic engine treatments.
http://www.torquecars.com/tuning/cry...treatments.php


And information on the K1 connecting rods for those who may be interested.
http://www.proimporttuners.com/parts...ting-rods.html

Please do. Is the shop building your block or swapping it for the built one?

The shop is building it and shipping it. I will be doing the install.. Picking up an engine stand shortly from a guy off of craigslist and now looking for a engine hoist...

Here is a pic a pic of the one that is going to be built..

I managed to pick up a engine stand yesterday from a guy on craigslist and today I bought a new engine hoist. :tup:

Great to see this progress! Excited to see if you document the pull of your engine. Are you planning on pulling the front end off and then taking it out frontwards?

Actually I was going to take it straight from the top. That's what I did on my 350z and it seemed to work fine. Iam thinking if I did pull it straight out of the front then I wouldn't have to pull the tranny. Any thoughts?

I will start tomorrow and take some pics of everything...

you're better off taking the entire front end off and pulling the engine and transmission together

Damn straight. this car REALLY seems like the engine isn't meant to come out like normal. It wants to come out from the bottom only.


You'll have to take the front end and all the intercooler stuff off anyways

I will try that because mating the tranny back up after is a real pita... Any ideas to where the a/c lines disconnect?

What sucks is having to buy and install another fuel pump when gtm should have included that when I paid more money for my Stage II twin turbo kit. The walbro 255 only supports around 500whp which is fine for the stage I kit. And an upgraded fuel pump is only a few dollars more if anyone was wondering. Hell I may even take the gtm kit off and go with FI kit just so I wouldn't have to drill and tap the new motor and oil pan...

+1 on not going from the top. Even if you decide not to completely remove the front end, you're still better off raising the car and lowering the block out from underneath. Good luck! :)

It will be quite impressive to see this done in a garage without a lift. Cosmo I want to see yah do it! :tup:

I did my 350z in a two car garage on jackstands and pulled the motor from the top... my next house will have a shop and lift if anyone needs a hand...

If I had a cradle of some kind to lower it through the bottom I would but I would need to get the car pretty high to do that and most jack stands wouldn't cut it. I honestly think at this point I will take it out from the front leaving the tranny attached and do the same when reinstalling. Does anyone have any pics of dropping it from the bottom without the use of a lift?

I also removed my 350 motor from the top after disconnecting it from the tranny. It wasnt too bad, but if I have to remove the motor in the 370z I will be removing it from the front. Im excited to see how this thread progresses!

Yeah, without a lift I doubt you could, at least not safely. If any such pics exist, there's probably a scary pile of boards 3 feet high under the jackstands or something :)

this is actually how nissan built their greddy TT car, i assumed they would use a lift etc but they just put the car on stands and removed the front end heh

That is pretty wild!

I remember seeing a post on here with someone who took the front bumper and radiator etc all off to change headers. I think it was @Spohn.

I would think if you could get the car up at least a foot, maybe that would be enough room to work with. Who knows though :ugh2:

I pulled this pic from Fast Intentions FB page. I would do this if I had a lift..

I have always pulled them from the front. When doing a build with the existing motor thats coming out of the car, the last thing I need sitting the shop for 3 months is a crossmember and suspension... and I hate having to get an alignment! Once the front end is off (easy), it takes no time at all to pull it in the front. Doesnt look as impressive but its my personal preference.

I bought a table jack to remove sub frames a couple years ago. I never used it once LOL. It just sits in then corner collecting dust. Pulling the motor out the top and out the bottom end up being the same amount of work... Most of the front already has come out for the intercooler ect.

Or you could just do it like they do in Djibouti.!!!!

lol, for some reason when I see that pic it reminds me of spohn...:icon18::bowrofl::bowrofl::bowrofl:

Didn't have a chance to start on it yesterday because I needed a hand getting the hood off but Monday its on... :tup:

While watching some college bowl games today I was wondering what the compression is on a Porsche 911 Turbo. Turns out that car's compression is 9.8 so I feel I made the right decision on the 10.1 compression on my new built engine... Whats funny is the gtr is 9.1

I wouldn't worry too much about CR. The key with these builds is bearing clearances. Way too many shops say that they "build" engines, but that doesn't mean that they know HOW to build an engine. I am not sure who is doing the build for you, and it doesn't really matter to me. All I know is that I can't even count how many VQ35DE's had spun journals due to clearances being too tight. So, just make sure you get it all sorted out while it is all out of the car, and that you have a true expert with experience assembling your bottom end.

Good luck with everything, I really hope you have a postitive, trouble free experience with all this. The end result should be rewarding.

The build is being done at S&R Performance in tampa. I did a lot of research before choosing them so keep your fingers crossed. They have done several vq builds and have their own single turbo for the 370z...

Yea it's very easy. Remove bumper, headlights, radiator, core support (lots of bolts), drop tranny, disconnect main harness, power steering, AC, and pull motor. For me this is a walk in a park just takes time.

Why drop the tranny? Couldn't that just come out with the motor?

I think we need a DIY, that doesn't sound too bad. Did you do this with a normal jack/stand combo? You have a lift too right?

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Sorry, wasn't thinking. You don't have to.