This is easy power right there. Kind of shows the level of workmanship that goes into a GTM branded product.

UPDATE: Just got off the phone with bobby at vsr and my built motor goes out tomorrow!!!! And for those wondering those gtm exhaust manifolds have been perfected (thanks to me and my grinder) and being shipped to vsr tomorrow to have them make better one's in which hopefully won't have to be drilled or tapped. Opening that up the exhaust manifold that 1/4 of an inch should help the flow a lot. After measuring it's like 20% bigger now and matches the gasket.

Good stuff!

sweet, looks good man. I can't believe they didn't make them like that to begin with!

Hey cosmo. How far into the port did you grind?

As far I could reach to get those sharp edges down for a nice even flow. I will take a few close up shots tomorrow but trust me it's a lot better than what it was...

Thinking about going with this specific oil just for my break-in.

Amazon.com: COMP Cams 1590 10W30 Break-In Engine Oil - 1 Quart Bottle: Automotive

Joe Gibbs makes one like that too if I remember correctly.

Found it...

Amazon.com: Joe Gibbs 01806 BR-30 5W-30 Break-In Motor Oil - 1 Quart Bottle: Automotive

What's the procedure with that? Run it for the first few hundred miles and then dump it for nonsynthetic for the rest of the break in period?

I guess it depends on VSR and what they recommend.

I believe break in oil is only for flat tapped motors with a shít load of ZDDP making it not ok for cars with cats. (I don't think you do, so you should be ok to run it I guess)

I'd run:
Liqui Moly 2009 Anti-Friction Oil Treatment - 300 ml : Amazon.com : Automotive

Or maybe 2 bottles of it and call it a day, maybe their more expensive one CeraTec.
(Yes. I use LiquiMoly, and like the product very much, tempted to use their 0W-30 oil, but all my oil changes are prepaid anyways)

As long as it is Conventional Motor Oil it should be fine. But yea, 300-500 then do an oil change then maybe another 3-4k miles with the Conventional Motor Oil, change then go with a good synthetic like motul...

Do they recommend you change the oil after the fist couple of heat cycles before you even take it out on the road? I've seen some engine builders recommend that you start the motor, let it idle for 20-30 min and then dump the oil.

Forgot to post that but yes he did recommend starting it for the first time and allowing it to idle for about 30 min then drop the oil and proceed with the details on my last post.. Hey it's still early..:rofl2:

I don't know why that would matter anymore. I think that's old wisdom still seeping through

When Mobil 1 and a crap Fram filter is $29 Walmart, I don't see why you wouldn't do that. Hell, let's double it because I don't know how much the OP's system holds)

I'm very curious how it's going to sound, especially when it's cold. I've heard built motors that sounded as quiet as stock, and I've heard some that clattered like a diesel. I guess it depends on what kind of clearance they ran on the pistons.

I definitely underestimated how restricted that manifold exit was compared to the turbo flange, just called my shop to make sure they hadn't bolted the turbos up yet and fortunately I caught them before so they are going to grind that out as well, good catch!

As for break in, we used a pressurized lubricator that connects to the block and forces oil everywhere (no dry cranking) along with a break in oil for start up, after 20-30 minutes of running that at ~2k rpm, we drained it and replaced with conventional oil for the first 500, changed that for conventional again and left it until about 4-5k.

Once I swapped to synthetic at 5k I noticed my valve train noise from VVEL was MUCH louder than it was prior to the build and when I was breaking in the engine. I don't know if it was the break in oil or just the whole process but VVEL is noisy as hell now. I used an additive by RS-R called "ran up" and it was night and day difference, sounded like stock again, so I'm going to try ester oil to see if its quieter.

^RSR Ran Up oil is BULLLLLLSHIT.
Get the one I recommended. Disadvantage is that it won't thin your oil like the other stuff. But it's the same additives

Dammit man, now I have to go over to bob is the oil guy and read up on it. That place makes my head hurt. :rofl2:

It's a replacement quart of 0W20 and hi tech NASA used lubricants... AKA molybdenum...
So the 0W20 is why you get the 1-5hp increase, and the Mo is why it quiets the engine

So it's 300 ml of 0-20 and some moly?

not sure what you mean by bullsh1t, its super expensive if thats what you mean, but it worked great. I'll give the Liqui Moly a try for sure though

I thought RSR was a quart? At best it's a ceramic additive, but I know NASA used Mo.

LiquiMoly is 300mL and some Mo.

I was talking about the liquimoly you linked.

It's just snake oil's snake oil. The "HP gains" are due to it being thinner. And the sound difference is the Mo in it. That's why Nissan's Ester oil has a high amount of Mo in it. To lessen the sound of valve chatter

Good info

Well no word from vsr that my motor was shipped today... Having flashbacks!!

Eeaaaaassyy. It's only 1 day. Not few months. Finishing touches prolly.

LOL!!!!! :icon18::rofl2:

So what's up Cosmo? Any word?

Lol

Sent from my KFTT using Tapatalk

Everything done, my motor Will ship tomorrow. Listen guys I'm not sure if I'm going to be able to help out with those gtm manifolds. Vsr is very busy and there is no telling when I may get them back. By the time they get my manifolds and figure out something or fabricate another set it will just be way too long for me to wait and I really want to get my car up and running again. Plus I refuse to be the guinea pig on a new set of manifolds and possibly be forced to do this all again. Sorry guys but I want my car up and going..

So you're gonna reinstall the cracked manifolds?

I think hes going to get them welded and cryo'd?

I am not surprised that they are swamped, its about that time to get those last mods in methinks.

tubular manifolds love to crack unless they are really high grade stuff, like welded iwth the pipes back flushed with shield gas using the proper rod with all the same grade of stianless for the parts (at the very least 304 or better). the head flange needs to have all the runners divorced so it can move around as it heats and the wall on the tube needs to be thick enough to fully support the turbo under these conditions. also it is going to dump more heat into the engine bay in a very tight area next to a bunch of stuff that doesn't like to get hot. This is why sets for the 350z cost upwards of $1600. Just throwing that out there.

How do you know all this? :eek:

I know everything muhahaha now seriously, welding courses, manufacturing engineering, machining, autorepair, and a decade of experience. Knowing people helps too, as well as a serious passion for all things mechanical. Designed and built my first sc kit at 16 lol

I posted up info about using a restrictor to fix the coolant line issue but cosmo had it deleted
Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

Do you know a company that can make us a manifold for GTM replacement that you can hook us up with? :D

Yeah that guy knows it all and is often a prick here on the forum. I highly suggest starting a new thread on making after-market gtm manifolds so we stay on subject here. Do not start any crap on my thread 1slow370 as you have done before. Oh and before you listen to what this guy has to say keep in mind he was trying to tell Charles how to make a fuel return system and got owned....

What I'm going to do is have them x-rayed to see if the crack is superficial or not and then have then welded. Just from looking at them it seems the cracks are superficial because you can't see any light through the inside. Understand people this process of making entirely new manifolds to replace the gtm one's will take a lot of time and r&d to do it right and I don't have that amount of time to again wait to get my car up and going again.