Are you reffering to a sureflow pump and if so since the pump is pre-turbo the heat shouldn't be an issue going through the pump. Also do you think it would affect the thermostat ?

Hey chuck since you have seen the amount that needs to be cut and trimmed to get the maximum flow of those manifolds going to the turbo's what would you recommend to use because in the area it is Very think. I hit it yesterday a little with the tungsten bit and it didn't do much at all...

No effect on the thermostat as far as I can figure. Not sure on the pump, I've farmed out the thinking on this one. I'll install what he tells me. :rofl2:

A tungsten carbide bit wouldn't cut cast iron? Odd. That's what I've always used with good success.

Actually it will but the small bit I have on my dremel would take forever to do. I will look around for something a bit bigger because if I do keep the kit I want to open up so it can flow as much as possible... Rusty please feel free to chime in here...

Problem found. You need a cutting tool with more nuts. Hell, Harbor Freight will have a $20 air die grinder that'll work well enough to do the job. The Dremel is for final finishing, not hogging out that kind of metal. You're also using plenty of cutting oil, right?

Wait, what water lines? should we modify the water lines and ditch the manual instruction that came with GTM? whats wrong with water lines that GTM supplied?

And wtf is up with this replicated HKS manifold. Im a huge fan of HKS I don't not wish to put anything replicated on my damn car especially when it comes to HKS.
I hate you Charles, you know all this but you didn't warned us?!!!

GTM? George? Sam? Pablo? Is that true??

They daisy-chain the water lines to the turbos so the "cool" inlet on the second turbo is seeing coolant that's already been heated up from the first turbo.

I think Im using oil to cool the turbo down in my system.

Edit: Cosmo, its gonna be useless to lose money and buy a new kit. You already got good turbos all you need is a proper manifold and you're done.

If it's a GTM kit, you're using both. Garretts use oil and coolant.

So all we need is Y pipe connector and problem is fixed?
Why GTM didn't monitor this issue may I ask? :confused:

I thought about running separate lines, but the guy who built my car (and lots more turbo Zs) says it would be better solved by increasing flow. The coolant wants to take the path of least resisitance, which is the larger lines the turbo line comes off of. He's saying a pump on the first turbo line will take care of the issue. I'll find out soon enough.

:icon18:

So to fix this in short, you keep the same routing that GTM supplied but with larger lines and a pump to push the water?

He doesn't even think you need new lines. We're going to just put the pump in and see if increasing flow solves the problem.

I'm in for that too.... I hope it's the last thing I'll need to fix on this kit....

I thought the issue was temp and not flow. Wouldn't you just be pushing more hot coolant to the other turbo if you only add a pump without splitting the lines before it hits the first turbo? What about adding a Y and then using equal lenght lines to feed coolant individually to each turbo? Then use equal lenght return lines as well.

More importantly, this "issue" is more of an observation made by Nick (esfourteen) a while back. There really isn't any documented failure or temp differences between turbo A and turbo B. For all we know, the setup we have might be ok. We don't know the real effects of the current setup in GTMs kit. How do manufacturers manage this in stock TT V6 cars? How's fast intentions managing it?

Jason has access to plenty, how are GTRs routing their coolant lines to the turbos?

Lol imagine Tony was nice enough to help us out with water lines? it will be hilarious LOL

its taking 3 individual vendors to make GTM kit nearly done.

Im gonna call GTM and see whats up with these water line "issues" if any to see whats up with that.
Im pretty sure if there is an issue, GTM couldve supplied a pump with their kit for additional lets say $50?

Jason was the one who said to just add in a pump. I had gone to him with the idea of adding a new line, but he wants to try the pump first. We'll find out soon enough.

Cool. Keep us posted! Will you be monitoring temps from coolant coming out of the turbos and comparing them to each other?

**** no. That's way too much work. I'm going to watch the OEM temp gauge and see if it stops moving when it's really hot this summer. :roflpuke2:

I need to get a real water temp gauge before summer, then we'll have a better idea how well it works.

Lol

I am sure the reason they did that with the water lines is because that is how the APS turbo kit for the 350z/G35 was. I would assume they just duplicated the entirety of the turbo water line components.

That said, I dont recall any of the APS kit owners having trouble with the water lines to their turbos being in series though. But who knows... maybe its boiling their water and they dont even know it.

The car's own digital reading of water temps is available over OBD-II as well, with any standard OBD-II data viewer/logger. ScanGaugeII (https://www.scangauge.com/products/scangaugeii/) or the Torque app on Android w/ a Bluetooth OBD-II dongle. (and logger systems like RaceKeeper can graph it as well).

I wonder if anyone could dig up the instructions for the old HKS turbo starter kit. I wonder how they were doing the coolant lines since they also use garret BB turbos.

I had no idea people were having these kind of issues with GTM kits. There are some minor things that I would change about my currently installed kit, but they are minor at best.

Oh yeah, Charles strikes again (even though he wasn't trying to take a shot at anyone........"that just happened")

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Yea, you need an air powered 1/4" die grinder with a couple of large football shaped burr bits for roughing. Then a couple of smaller diameter burr bits for finishing. Ball shaped. If you want to go deep into the manifold. Then you need burr bits with a 6" shaft on them. You'll burn up the Dremel on the first port you try to do. I get my die grinders from Sears. I burn them up, and they give me a new one. :D Local Sears store has them on stock to boot. :D

Just wanted to thank rusty for the heads up on the die grinder, so far its working great. After further measuring the gtm exhaust manifolds the hole is 1/4 smaller then the flange where it connects to the turbo slowing the air flow down. Will take some pics tomorrow and show my progress. I will wait and send these to vsr because if they can fabricate these I want you guys to have the openings the same size to allow more exhaust flow going to the turbos. Stay tuned!!:tup:

burrs leave a shitty finish tho i recommend using some spiral rolls on an arbor for clean up, and they are cheap at harbor freight, spiral rolls are the way to go on aluminum too if you plan to port anything else. if you for some crasy reason decide to use a burr on anything aluminum make sure to use copious amounts of wd40 or a lube like LPS

What you can do to is. Get a piece of 1/4" diameter metal rod. Cut a slot in one end of it about one inch long with a hack saw. Now get a piece of emery paper about one inch wide and about six inches long. Fold it up twice, and stick it in the slot in the end of the rod. Now you can use that for polishing up the rough areas. You can use different grits of emery paper for different finishes. ;)

Aluminum takes a different type of burr bit. One used for hard metals will clog up. It has to be a courser bit.

You're welcome. :tiphat:

Cosmo I'm waitin to see how everything works out for you! Let's gooooooooo

I'm taking off all day tomorrow to work on those manifolds before I send them down to vsr. Them thangs are going to flow like mo-jo!!! More than likely I will smooth out the intake runners as well. Pics tomorrow!!!

Before and after. I may have loaded the after first. lol
Went ahead and grinded one tonight. Notice how the gasket doesn't cover any of the exhaust flow now.?

Hey gtm this is the way it should have been done!!!!!!!:rofl2::rofl2:

That looks nice!! ^ Damn I never noticed that. Great call

Thanks, I'm working on the other one right now and will post pics later..

How sharp is the edge on the inside of the flange? Did you round that off? Pics of these kind of things are always kinda hard to see.

Sharp but I took my time and grinded it down for a smooth transition... Will take better pics later..

Cool.

Very nicely done Cosmo.


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Here is a pic of the driver side gtm exhaust manifold before and after the grinder. Who wants to bet it's going to flow a lot better now!!!