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Almost feel bad for the poor guy that bought that Z.......almost. If I win the lottery, I swear to zombie Jesus, I'm going to start a tuner shop that does have all these parts in stock and would be ready in a matter of days to be shipped. I can see the money already stacking up when those one kits are shipped and people start to install them:tup: |
I have read a lot on this forum even before taking delivery of my 2013 370Z Sport in July 2013. I had a 2003 350Z and wanted a 370 in a bad way.
I finally got one and gave the 350 to my younger bro. :tup: which by the way is an awesome car. It's a bit more fun to drive then the 370. I wanted to boost my 370 and even invested in a complete Stillen SC kit (yeah I know :roflpuke2: ) a month after I purchased the car. It was only then that I really started reading all the threads about FI. My conclusion as it applies to me. Purchase a GT-R. Yes it is 65 - 75 K more expensive than a stock 370Z. Add all the FI mods and headaches and that 65 - 75 K turns out to be a lot less. The GT-R seems to hold it value as well. I have sold my FI kit to a forum member here before I installed it. I purchased a LTI, CBE, and springs. I will keep my 370 as close to stock as possible and sell it in a year and upgrade to a GT-R or possibly another car like a 2014 Vette, M3 or 911. By the way the car is my toy. It is something I always wanted and I now have a few bucks and can afford a toy. It is not a DD. I enjoy the forum and I am sure there are many FI success stories out there. Good luck with the repairs Cosmogirl I hear you hinting at the GT-R, thus my motivation to respond. :driving: |
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With all the talk of "how much power a stock can handle reliably" it is easy to lie to yourself and say it won't happen to me. I know I did. You MUST plan for the worst and hope for the best. Otherwise you will be devistated when it does happen to you. Think of it like shoving three sticks of dynamite to the cylendars when they are designed to handle one or two. Good luck with the built motor! |
[QUOTE=Wattles;2579102]We all know the ultimate risk when we take on an FI project. That doesn't really lessen the sting much when your motor goes down. I know this (like Cosmogirl) all too well. Then with the added downtime and BIG $$$ additional investment it adds insult to injury.
With all the talk of "how much power a stock can handle reliably" it is easy to lie to yourself and say it won't happen to me. I know I did. You MUST plan for the worst and hope for the best. Otherwise you will be devistated when it does happen to you. Think of it like shoving three sticks of dynamite to the cylendars when they are designed to handle one or two. Good luck with the built motor![/QUOT I see you have a gtm long block? How long did it take to get from from them? I have the money to pull the trigger but no options. |
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I'm guessing (and it's a guess based on my experience) that the quoted time will be a few (3 maybe) weeks for a rebuild & mod of your current engine/long block. But I stress you should plan MUCH longer (again based on MY experience). That being said, I absolutely feel Sam tried to give me a huge break on the work he did. The engine is holding up well and feels super solid. I think Sam works very hard to make everyone as happy as possible; but completely over extends his ability to crank out cars & kits. This leads to multiple missed deadlines. Good luck! |
(That being said, I absolutely feel Sam tried to give me a huge break on the work he did. The engine is holding up well and feels super solid.
I think Sam works very hard to make everyone as happy as possible; but completely over extends his ability to crank out cars & kits. This leads to multiple missed deadlines.) I couldn't agree more, I like sam as well but much is to be learned... |
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[QUOTE=cosmogirl;2579119]
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Sorry to hear ur troubles bro |
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We totally disagree with you on needing a built engine. We have sold over 1,000 turbo kits and the engine failure rate is less than 2%. Although, there is always a risk, and anytime you are boosting a car, a stock engine can simply not take the engine power. In any case, your lack of common sense is what put you in this predicament. Remember when you called me about you seeing 40psi on the boost controller and asking me whether or not that was possible? So you bought a used boost controller off eBay (very smart way of protecting your investment) and when the car overboosted doing 40psi, instead of diagnosing the car and finding out what is going on, you buy another boost controller and it does the same exact thing. Then you called me. All it was is that you ignored the selection of the type of wastegate setting on the Blitz boost controller. It needs to know if you have internal or external wastegate. You didn't buy the part from us, you always give us ****, and still, I walked you through setting up the controller. That is why you have a blown engine. It is unfortunate that your engine failed. But despite us supporting you time and time again, you have an unjustifiably negative attitude towards our company. I don't think it is in both of our best interest to conduct any further business together. We wish you the best of luck. Sam |
I'm speechless
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Seems to be a private matter but hey..... :drama:
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Heard from the other side. :icon14: Don't know what to say either.
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I'm all for companies defending themselves publicly. Pretty deadly.
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