Originally Posted by future370zzz (Post 2573597)

I am going Stillen also and will be installing a PLX digital multi gauge in the Clock gauge location. It will let me monitor everything on the car with just one gauge.

Originally Posted by 1slow370 (Post 2573447)

Yeah the worst things about the stillen kit are going to be in order 1. Tune 2. Manifold/intercooler setup 3.intake/MAF sensor piping 4. Restictive offset coupler on supercharger inlet

edit: after that its just that the headunit is to small to hit 650hp on the air hungry vhr

Originally Posted by 1slow370 (Post 2573606)

2. The stillen manifold/intercooler setup is not efficient enough and there are power gains by switching to a front mount because of the cooler iat

3. The piping after the supercharger with the mafs in it is under sized and delivers different amounts of air to both sensors, because of the smaller diameter it also will max out the maf sensors range bellow 500 hp so your car wont know how much air its getting past that

4. Because of the sharp bends it has to make the intake coupler is a significant airflow restrictor

Originally Posted by Shamrock (Post 2573609)

I bought the kiwi apparatus that connects to the "plug". Never used it. Will it show those things?

thanks :)
Bart

Originally Posted by Shamrock (Post 2573742)

I just talked to gtm about their cages and from what I understand the very critical gauge is the AFR gauge so I think I'm going to go for the AFR gauge. I guess if the AFR is off meaning the car is running too lean then the engine could blow but boost is a different issue and it's much easier felt. AFR is the silent killer

thanks :)
Bart

Originally Posted by Shamrock (Post 2573854)

Finally useful info. Thanks firehawk.

thanks :)
Bart

Originally Posted by SS_Firehawk (Post 2573465)

Living in similar temps as you, I spent about $4300 in cooling alone, not including methanol injection. This included the GTM radiator, shroud and fan upgrade, baffled oil pan, and two 19 row oil coolers with labor factored in.. a methonol injection kit is very optional. You can use it to cool your intake charge as well as tune for some extra power. It's not cheap though and the Stillen kit won't be pushing big numbers like the GTM kits.

Of all the things that is recommended, the radiator is your weak link since you have an oil cooler. We aren't saying you have to buy GTMs, (it's by far the best) but at a minimum, spending $600 for a CSF radiator. is a very good idea.

I have not had the chance to log my water temps, but even with two 19 row oil coolers, my temps have climbed up to 105℃ and that was just driving hard on the street or dyno.

Originally Posted by ANMVQ (Post 2573882)

It's funny cause I didn't see anyone bashing the Stillen kit ether ?
I really liked mine . Just you said "put all the Sillen bashers and haters to rest" ?? No really hates on the Stillen kit , and it's been proving many times the kit is reliable and will make power it just won't the most, heck it WONT make 500 WHP! It won't! You will make over 400 WHP but to make anything close to 500 if that's what your shooting you'll have to change almost everything that came with the kit . I tried man tried I swapped a lot of things and feel short . But IMO it's a good kit just won't make the most WHP

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2573600)

Since you have to replace all three dash gauges if you do one, what are you putting in the other two locations?

Originally Posted by Shamrock (Post 2573605)

Any names of the plx gauge? Where to get it?

thanks :)
Bart

Originally Posted by Shamrock (Post 2573609)

I bought the kiwi apparatus that connects to the "plug". Never used it. Will it show those things?

thanks :)
Bart

Originally Posted by ANMVQ (Post 2573882)

It's funny cause I didn't see anyone bashing the Stillen kit ether ?
I really liked mine . Just you said "put all the Sillen bashers and haters to rest" ?? No really hates on the Stillen kit , and it's been proving many times the kit is reliable and will make power it just won't the most, heck it WONT make 500 WHP! It won't! You will make over 400 WHP but to make anything close to 500 if that's what your shooting you'll have to change almost everything that came with the kit . I tried man tried I swapped a lot of things and feel short . But IMO it's a good kit just won't make the most WHP

Originally Posted by future370zzz (Post 2573904)

The shop doing the install will not be removing the dash to install it, I think they are going under it so they just need to remove one gauge. This saves on the cost of removing the whole dash. The installation cost for gauges are high because of the work involved.

Originally Posted by future370zzz (Post 2573906)

Will be testing out the kit with 12PSI and 100 octane to see how close it gets.:eek: Testing in 50F temps should help too. hehe

Still need to figure out how to lower underhood temps though in the summer. Ugh

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2573908)

The three gauges are one piece. If you replace one you replace them all. You cannot replace only one.

Originally Posted by ANMVQ (Post 2573915)

I'd you upgrade the fuel pump, or injectors?
At 12 psi your gonna run out of MAF voltage for sure .
You'll need upgrades ones . MR.Squzze ran out :( an I changed mine out

Originally Posted by 7AT_Z (Post 2574156)

I'm very much a non believer after having a friend building his motor and having the Stillen kit only make 400rwhp with a 9lb pulley on 100 oct lol. Sooooo good luck!

Originally Posted by 1087 (Post 2574213)

400 RWHP with a built motor , 9lb pulley and 100 oct?
Are you serious?

Originally Posted by 7AT_Z (Post 2574217)

Dead serious. Call Sebastian at specialty Z. He tuned it. Motor had carillo rods and pistons, custom jwt cams, etc... $20k thrown down the drain. Everything was properly installed and tuned. That kit is extremely limited in making any sort of power. Its TERRIBLE lol. VQ's are meant to be TT'ed not supercharged haha

Originally Posted by 7AT_Z (Post 2574223)

It was an 08 HR 350z. same motor, same s/c kit as a 370 still.

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2574256)

The hr is the same motor as the vhr? That doesn't sound right at all. In addition to the displacement increase, its a lot stouter internally. Not to mention VVEL.

Originally Posted by 1087 (Post 2574245)

Well... I beg to disagree with your statement.
My bone stock motor 370Z, with a Stillen SC kit, cat back exhaust and tuning does 453/337@ the wheels.
It's step by step well documented in DSPORT magazine.

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2574256)

The hr is the same motor as the vhr? That doesn't sound right at all. In addition to the displacement increase, its a lot stouter internally. Not to mention VVEL.

Originally Posted by 7AT_Z (Post 2574276)

Sorry to say but that's where you will be stuck at for the lifetime of that kit, no matter what you do. In my opinion, if you are limited due to the configuration of the kit and there is no room for growth, then its terrible.

Originally Posted by 1slow370 (Post 2573933)

Yeah especially on a supercharger boost isn't too important, the pulley isn't suddenly gonna get smaller and blow the motor, egt's aren't that important on a supercharged car either, they are useful but not important. oil pressure would definitely be a good one to have.

Originally Posted by 1087 (Post 2574245)

Well... I beg to disagree with your statement.
My bone stock motor 370Z, with a Stillen SC kit, cat back exhaust and tuning does 453/337@ the wheels.
It's step by step well documented in DSPORT magazine.

Originally Posted by 7AT_Z (Post 2574278)

I didn't mean the EXACT same. I know the differences between the two. But should those differences cause that low of a put out? Nope. Not at all.

Originally Posted by Shamrock (Post 2574351)

So my dealer here offered me the info gauge by Greddy. It cost about as much after customs as the AFR gauge from gtm. The info gauge connects directly to the OBD and you have the ability to connect to the info gauge external sensors as well. A couple questions: 1. What can be checked through the OBD? 2. AFR, oil pressure, AT temp, etc. 3. If so are these readings accurate? 4. Does the car have a wide band?


thanks :)
Bart

Originally Posted by Shamrock (Post 2574509)

Could someone explain to me what the wideband means

thanks :)
Bart

Originally Posted by elperuano (Post 2574691)

This guy has clearly not done his homework.