Heat soak - vented hood options that are not "louvered"

Alstann · 11-10-2013, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Uprev adjusts the temp they turn on. The GTM fans move a lot more air than the stock ones.

Alstann, you're right on the vents being the best way to get hot air out of the engine bay. If there were a vented hood on the market I liked from a functional/aesthetic standpoint I'd start with that. I'm just not a huge fan of the options we have on that front, so I'm going to try adding the fans to the CSF radiator I've got, lowering the fan temperature more and running less antifreeze. If that isn't enough to keep temps stable, then ill start cutting holes.

I'm right there with you on that one.

I don't know if I love any vented hood enough to warrant spending money getting one, and then even more painting it. The Seibon one is my "favorite," but still, I'm a clean and simple guy for cars at the moment. I wonder if there is any plastic shrouding near the windshield we can remove, to allow the trapped air to somewhat escape from the engine bay? I've never looked.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

I've always heard that's it's a bad idea to run straight water in an Aluminum engine because of corrosion. Antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors. Or is that another of my out-dated facts?

Corrosion does occur to some extent, such as mineral deposits and small amounts of rust on the aluminium. The solution is to run straight 100% distilled water, usually purchased from a grocery store. Of course, in cold climates, this is a very bad idea.

Chuck33079 · 11-10-2013, 10:40 PM

I'd be concerned about taking the plastic at the base of the windshield out and having air forced in from that direction at speed since its a high pressure area.

SouthArk370Z · 11-10-2013, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

I'd be concerned about taking the plastic at the base of the windshield out and having air forced in from that direction at speed since its a high pressure area.

It should be one of those "can't do any harm" deals. If the pressure at the base if the windshield is high enough it will block any flow out. If higher than that, it will force a little cold air in. Removing/installing the seal (at least on the battery side) is fairly easy, so it would be worth a try. If it doesn't work, put the seal back on.

Aren't the HVAC intakes at the bottom of the windshield? I'd be afraid of sucking all that hot air into the cabin.

Chuck33079 · 11-10-2013, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

It should be one of those "can't do any harm" deals. If the pressure at the base if the windshield is high enough it will block any flow out. If higher than that, it will force a little cold air in. Removing/installing the seal (at least on the battery side) is fairly easy, so it would be worth a try. If it doesn't work, put the seal back on.

Aren't the HVAC intakes at the bottom of the windshield? I'd be afraid of sucking all that hot air into the cabin.

It would be easy enough to test. My concern would be the air coming in at the back of the hood and slowing the air coming through the radiator. Somebody needs to go test it with some yarn and see which way the air goes.

SouthArk370Z · 11-10-2013, 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

It would be easy enough to test. My concern would be the air coming in at the back of the hood and slowing the air coming through the radiator. Somebody needs to go test it with some yarn and see which way the air goes.

If I weren't letting my engine cool down to check the IAT sensor, I'd make a quick run and check that. I'd like to see if it will allow hot air into the cabin. If nobody else has done it when I finish with the temp test, I'll see what I can do.

Chuck33079 · 11-10-2013, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

If I weren't letting my engine cool down to check the IAT sensor, I'd make a quick run and check that. I'd like to see if it will allow hot air into the cabin. If nobody else has done it when I finish with the temp test, I'll see what I can do.

I'd love to know. My uneducated guess is that it'll act like a cowl induction hood on a muscle car and let air go in, but I'd love to be wrong. It would be really easy to add venting to that area if it turns out to be helpful.

luigi90210 · 11-10-2013, 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmhenderson

Well I'd need to make sure it would be functional first. Consensus here seems to be that the scoop shown in that picture wouldn't do much (if anything)

well it should function, it will be scooping up air, how well it would function is a whole different question

honestly you're better off getting hood vents, ya it will dirty your engine bay but you wont have to worry about rain because most vented hoods come with covers for the vents

synolimit · 11-10-2013, 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

I've always heard that's it's a bad idea to run straight water in an Aluminum engine because of corrosion. Antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors. Or is that another of my out-dated facts?

Not distilled. You only want distilled! Normal water, bottle, house etc all have minerals in it that will corrode stuff.

When I do 100% water plus water wetter it's really not 100%. I just drain the radiator till it stops dripping. The block, water pump etc will still have regular antifreeze in it so in the end you may have something like 90% water, 9% antifreeze and 1% water wetter.

SouthArk370Z · 11-10-2013, 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

I'd love to know. My uneducated guess is that it'll act like a cowl induction hood on a muscle car and let air go in, but I'd love to be wrong. It would be really easy to add venting to that area if it turns out to be helpful.

My guess is that, at speed, the pressure in the engine compartment from the air coming through the radiator will overcome the pressure at the rear of the hood. From what I understand, it's not that much higher than ambient, just higher than other places on the hood.

If air is going into the engine compartment, it will probably not be a lot as it will have to overcome the pressure in the engine compartment.

I'm curious to see what happens. Not that I will have any use for the info, but I find it interesting.

synolimit · 11-10-2013, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

I'd love to know. My uneducated guess is that it'll act like a cowl induction hood on a muscle car and let air go in, but I'd love to be wrong. It would be really easy to add venting to that area if it turns out to be helpful.

I took all the covers out of my engine bay. The battery and brake master lid and their plastic they clip into but not the rubber seal that seals the hood to the plastic covering the lower windshield. You're talking about that long rubber seal and the plastic at the window right? I left it for concern about backdraft too. I don't think those covers do anything right? Even though they have seals on them as well to keep heat away from the battery or brake master I'd guess.

Rusty · 11-11-2013, 12:43 AM

We've had this discussion before. The base of the windshield is a high pressure area. Why do you think the '70's Trans Am's, chevy muscle cars, nascar, and a few others all use that area for air inlet into the motor. The best idea so far has been synolimit's. It's directly behind the radiator, at the front of the hood. Which is a low pressure area. All you would need is a cover for it that has the opening in the rear of it. Facing the windshield. About 1.5"~2" high. The air moving over it would help suck out the heat from under the hood. Another idea would be fender vents. Think of the '70's Trans Ams. I had 2 of them. The vents on them worked. Because they got their air directly from the engine compartment. Not from the inner fender liner, like some vented fenders do now.

dmhenderson · 11-11-2013, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

If I weren't letting my engine cool down to check the IAT sensor, I'd make a quick run and check that. I'd like to see if it will allow hot air into the cabin. If nobody else has done it when I finish with the temp test, I'll see what I can do.

Very cool. Definitely keep us posted.

theDreamer · 11-11-2013, 08:51 AM

This is probably the hood many of you would like. It keeps all the factory lines of the hood and just generates 2 parallel lines opening to vent air in the front. For those worried about the weather, even with mesh or a grill, there are other options to consider.

Hood to consider:

( Click to show/hide )

Here is an option to protect your engine bay, these are rain guards (came with my Seibon hood), which attach via a few bolts.

( Click to show/hide )

Adding those to the hood will give you the ability to block out the hood if you want to protect the engine area or even need to keep heat inside the car for winter reasons. Also giving you the option to remove quickly when you need to.
Also, I ran some early tests with the OEM hood and my stage 1 SC and will be adding a Seibon TS hood later to get a comparative results. Currently waiting to get the hood on and finish the results. OEM Hood v Seibon TS Testing

Chuck33079 · 11-11-2013, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer

This is probably the hood many of you would like. It keeps all the factory lines of the hood and just generates 2 parallel lines opening to vent air in the front.

That looks like exactly what we need.

MyKindaGuise · 11-11-2013, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer

This is probably the hood many of you would like. It keeps all the factory lines of the hood and just generates 2 parallel lines opening to vent air in the front. For those worried about the weather, even with mesh or a grill, there are other options to consider.

Hood to consider:

( Click to show/hide )

That is what I am looking to do with my hood. Or vents to go right over the turbo/downpipe or the header area would be useful I would think.

11-10-2013, 10:40 PM	#62 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29539	I'd be concerned about taking the plastic at the base of the windshield out and having air forced in from that direction at speed since its a high pressure area. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

11-11-2013, 12:43 AM	#71 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,180 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684437	We've had this discussion before. The base of the windshield is a high pressure area. Why do you think the '70's Trans Am's, chevy muscle cars, nascar, and a few others all use that area for air inlet into the motor. The best idea so far has been synolimit's. It's directly behind the radiator, at the front of the hood. Which is a low pressure area. All you would need is a cover for it that has the opening in the rear of it. Facing the windshield. About 1.5"~2" high. The air moving over it would help suck out the heat from under the hood. Another idea would be fender vents. Think of the '70's Trans Ams. I had 2 of them. The vents on them worked. Because they got their air directly from the engine compartment. Not from the inner fender liner, like some vented fenders do now. Chuck33079 likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

11-11-2013, 08:51 AM	#73 (permalink)
theDreamer A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 30,879 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 4210	This is probably the hood many of you would like. It keeps all the factory lines of the hood and just generates 2 parallel lines opening to vent air in the front. For those worried about the weather, even with mesh or a grill, there are other options to consider. Hood to consider: ( Click to show/hide ) Here is an option to protect your engine bay, these are rain guards (came with my Seibon hood), which attach via a few bolts. ( Click to show/hide ) Adding those to the hood will give you the ability to block out the hood if you want to protect the engine area or even need to keep heat inside the car for winter reasons. Also giving you the option to remove quickly when you need to. Also, I ran some early tests with the OEM hood and my stage 1 SC and will be adding a Seibon TS hood later to get a comparative results. Currently waiting to get the hood on and finish the results. OEM Hood v Seibon TS Testing __________________ theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram

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