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TT supporting mods and suggestions.

Ok, So I've been planning and for awhile now and had some helpful discussions on components for a TT system. My goals are to keep a everyday drive-ability and not

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Old 10-08-2013, 12:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Arrow TT supporting mods and suggestions.

Ok,
So I've been planning and for awhile now and had some helpful discussions on components for a TT system. My goals are to keep a everyday drive-ability and not to exceed 500whp but at or above 450whp for the foreseeable future. I am doing my best to keep up reliability but whenever you add more components the chances for problems increase. I don't see myself doing much more then 1/4 mile runs and spirited driving since tracks in my area are a few hours away.
Anyways here's what I have so far. In two phases of installation a few months a part.

Phase 1
Quafe LSD
CJM Fuel Starve Control
Aeromotice Stealth 340lph Fuel Pump
Goodridge SS Brake Line Set
Test Pipes
Maybe 2 piece brake upgrade.

Phase 2
GTM VQ37HR Twin Turbo Stage Tuner Kit GT28R .86 Housing TAIL BOV Black
Nissan VQ37 SP Line Injector Set: 6x1050cc SP Line Saturated /High Impedance
OS Giken Twin Plate w/ Damper Touring w/ Hard Cover w/ Upgraded Slave Cylinder
34 Row Oil Cooler
CSF Radiator
AFR/Boost/Oil Psi Gauges AEM Digital Gauges
Exhaust Heat Wrap
Uprev and Tuning

There are a couple of things that I am still not sure about.
Part of Phase 1
Maybe upgrade rotors to 2 piece
CJM Stage 0 Fuel Return System is out Not Necessary
3.33 Final Drive is out seems to be still be an unknown factor with Uprev
Part of Phase 2
Maybe IC Thermal Coating

Notes: Car is bone stock atm. I want to keep the stock look as much as possible and I am hoping the NISMO exhaust won't need to be replaced for now.

SO what are your thoughts and opinions?
or

Last edited by 2011 Nismo#91; 10-08-2013 at 02:48 PM. Reason: Updated
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Old 10-08-2013, 01:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If you can, you might as well step up to the Aeromotive Stealth fuel pump. It's something I wish I had from the start.

Do you plan to build the block? If not, you can settle for the Stage II turn key and change a few things. You get up and running fast with little variables with the setup that'll delay things.
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Old 10-08-2013, 01:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91 View Post
Ok,
So I've been planning and for awhile now and had some helpful discussions on components for a TT system. My goals are to keep a everyday drive-ability and not to exceed 500whp but at or above 450whp for the foreseeable future. I am doing my best to keep up reliability but whenever you add more components the chances for problems increase. I don't see myself doing much more then 1/4 mile runs and spirited driving since tracks in my area are a few hours away.
Anyways here's what I have so far. In two phases of installation a few months a part.

Phase 1
OS Giken Twin Plate w/ Damper Touring w/ Hard Cover w/ Upgraded Slave Cylinder
Quafe LSD
CJM Fuel Starve Control
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Goodridge SS Brake Line Set
Z1 Stainless Steel Clutch Line

Phase 2
GTM VQ37HR Twin Turbo Stage Tuner Kit GT28R .86 Housing TAIL BOV Black
Nissan VQ37 SP Line Injector Set: 6x1050cc SP Line Saturated /High Impedance
34 Row Oil Cooler
AFR/Boost/Oil Psi Gauges AEM Digital Gauges
Exhaust Heat Wrap
Uprev and Tuning

There are a couple of things that I am still not sure about.
Part of Phase 1
CJM Stage 0 Fuel Return System
3.33 Final Drive (would changing to this make the SRMatching no longer work?)
Part of Phase 2
CSF Radiator

Notes: Car is bone stock atm. I want to keep the stock look as much as possible and I am hoping the NISMO exhaust won't need to be replaced for now.

SO what are your thoughts and opinions?
or
Sounds good so far. I'd do the radiator for sure, and you might as well go with silicone hoses at the same time. Maybe bump the fuel pump up to the next size (Aeromotive? Not sure offhand) and go ahead and get on the list for the FI 3" exhaust. It's fantastic. Also, spring for the thermal dispersant coating on the IC core, and ceramic coat all hot parts. The 3" downpipes with external wastegates are a good idea as well. Maybe one of the adjustable clutch pedals to deal with the upgraded clutch. Might as well do a lighter flywheel while you're in there. If the motor is coming out for the install, consider the Z1 motor and trans mounts, and the silicone heater hoses since the motor will already be out and they're an easy swap with the motor on the ground. Don't forget a good boost controller- you can go manual if you aren't planning on going for big power immediately. A set of GTR plugs should make their way onto the list.
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Old 10-08-2013, 01:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DIGItonium View Post
If you can, you might as well step up to the Aeromotive Stealth fuel pump. It's something I wish I had from the start.
Beat me to it. That's one of the few things I would have done differently if I had it to do over.
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Old 10-08-2013, 01:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Also, most likely you won't be needing the stainless steel clutch line if you plan to get a new clutch and slave cylinder.
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Old 10-08-2013, 01:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DIGItonium View Post
Also, most likely you won't be needing the stainless steel clutch line if you plan to get a new clutch and slave cylinder.
Yeah, mine included the line.
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Old 10-08-2013, 01:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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With those injectors, are you planning to run an E85 tune?
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Old 10-08-2013, 01:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Ok, first do you have a budget in mind you want to keep? If not then start writing down prices of these items and see where it puts you. Don't want to get to a point and get tight with funds and try to cut corners.

Now onto the fun stuff.
Phase 1:
-Upgrade to the next fuel pump level as others have said
-If you plan to do SS lines may as well throw in rotors & pads, also this will be good as the holiday sales are coming which will help cut this cost down.
-Clutch/flywheel/csc stuff - save this for phase 2, it will cut down on install cost as the transmission & engine are dropped for a TT install (usually) and can reduce labor time

Phase 2:
-Since you want heat wrapping throw in thermal coating, for at least the intercooler if not everything.
-Add the CSF radiator & possibly GTM fan upgrade. This has been confirmed to be a compatible fitment with the CSF and with everything out this is another time to cut labor cost
-Skip out on the final drive, do not think Uprev tuning is able to play with the final drive ratio yet and not really worth it currently I would say
-For your power goals you will need to get rid of the stock cats and throw in some TP or DP for power & heat

Overall it is a solid build and you are going in the right direction. I left the fuel return system out as I am no expert on that, I would talk to CJM (Phunk) directly on your goals and their thoughts on if you should do it.
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Old 10-08-2013, 01:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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With those injectors, are you planning to run an E85 tune?
Nope.


I do not plan on building the engine any time soon if ever.

Thanks for the ideas thus far

Already sent a PM to Phunk. =P
Said it was unnecessary for me

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Old 10-08-2013, 02:25 PM   #10 (permalink)
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only problem i see is going over board on sum parts
if your not going to push the car and you want to be reliable
just get your turbo kit and clutch keep the power at 450-500

is no need to do all that other stuff if your not going to build the motor anytime soon

then just go for some nice suspension,tire and brake upgrades

with a good suspension and tires you will be a lot faster then some guys with more power

last thing power is addictive. at 450 you will want 475 or 480 then 500 then 525 then 540 o yea she can hold it the 550 then one day your driving and you hit it and boooom .
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Old 10-08-2013, 02:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
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only problem i see is going over board on sum parts
if your not going to push the car and you want to be reliable
just get your turbo kit and clutch keep the power at 450-500.
I'd rather overbuild and not run it out to the ragged edge. That way you're stressing things less, and there's still some left on the table when you get tired of the current power level.
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Old 10-08-2013, 02:30 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I would agree that some stuff is over done, but this will give him growth and safety room which is good. Plus if he does get power addictive he will have the instant room to grow now, instead of wasting money down the road for double install.
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Old 10-08-2013, 02:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I would agree that some stuff is over done, but this will give him growth and safety room which is good. Plus if he does get power addictive he will have the instant room to grow now, instead of wasting money down the road for double install.
Yeah, I'd rather spend more on parts to maximize my labor dollars any day of the week, especially with how addictive power is.
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Old 10-08-2013, 02:35 PM   #14 (permalink)
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i'd rather overbuild and not run it out to the ragged edge. That way you're stressing things less, and there's still some left on the table when you get tired of the current power level.
this x1000000000
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Old 10-08-2013, 03:35 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Unless running E85 you will want to go with smaller injectors.

The aeromotive pump wont be needed. Whatever pump you put in the stock fuel sending unit will only be pumping into the road race surge canister. There is no pressure pumping there so a stock pump will work best for now, and when you go turbo it might be a good idea to upgrade the stock pump just to a 255... but the 340 would be overkill for filling the surge can and might even just create problems.

The surge can has a Walbro 255 installed in it. If you need more fuel than that, a secondary pump can be added.. but even then adding a 340 would be way overkill on top of the existing 255... another 255 or even putting the stock pump in there with it would get the job done if you outran the Walbro 255 in there.
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