How many went FI and blew a motor?

Chuck33079 · 10-15-2013, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chii370

my builds going to be 500 whp w/forged pistons, rods, and heavier springs and retainers to prevent floating, NOT GOING TO SLEAVE. Other than that from every credible source i could ask 500whp is the limit with proper install. Repeat PROPER INSTALL.

500whp is fine on the stock motor. Why would you build the motor for that?

blackonorange · 10-21-2013, 03:50 PM

Sharps built motor failed?! O_o

elperuano · 10-21-2013, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackonorange

Sharps built motor failed?! O_o

He caught it before he went BOOM

Alstann · 10-21-2013, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FireDan50

We did a few pulls to get up to 611hp. Started at 530hp @ 7.5psi. Then went to 580hp @ 9.5 psi. Last one was the 611hp @ 10.5 psi. We were so close to 600s we turned up the boost just a little to see the results. Only reason I decided to chance it was because I have total faith in Todd Marcellini's tuning skills at Motion Lab Tuning. We decided it was best that we stop there lol.

What setup do you have, if you don't mind me asking? You are making awesome numbers on such reasonable boost levels!

I'm trying VERY hard to make sure my GTM setup will be the same - lots of power on less boost. Coupled with a good tune, I have complete faith in the VQ motor.

elperuano · 10-21-2013, 07:32 PM

FireDan ur numbers were with race gas correct?

SS_Firehawk · 10-21-2013, 07:37 PM

There is efficiency to be had with a larger single turbo compared to twins as well, but yes, like Elpuerno said, he was using race gas.

elperuano · 10-21-2013, 07:39 PM

I remembered he was. Would benefit everyone for him to disclose that. Can be misleading and have guys thinking they can make the same powers on pump gas.

Boosted Performance · 10-21-2013, 09:39 PM

You guys should not be hung up on psi vs. whp.

There are a few variable here. One that is mostly overlooked is the type of dyno used. DJ is somewhat the industry standard, but there are other dyno brands that will read a lot lower than a DJ, and a few that will read a lot higher than a DJ. So the power between the lowest reading dyno out there and the highest could be as much as 20%. In the end, each dyno is a tool used to tune a car, and the best way to find out the power a car is putting down is take it down to the drag strip, and make a few runs.

There are other things to keep in mind as well. Fuel (especially race gas vs. 91 pump gas), weather conditions/temperature can play a big role, as well as the tuner himself and the way the dyno is set-up. Some tuners for example do not feel comfortable exceeding 420ft/wtq on these engine, and other are more than happy pushing things much further than that.

1slow370 · 10-22-2013, 12:11 AM

it's not about the type of dyno its about how it is calibrated, you can make a dyno dynamics read higher than a dynapack if you wanted to.

Wattles · 10-23-2013, 08:59 AM

Add me to the list.

At 10k miles my motor went down with TT and oil cooler, dual intercooler setup. Boost was set to 10psi and WHP was just over 500.

My check engine light came on and the engine began to run very rough. I had it towed and the code the engine threw was a valve error.

Long story short, I now have a built engine after a long wait and Many dollars invested I hadn't planned on.

What can I say?
You play with fire, you can get burnt!

Mr.Squeeze · 10-23-2013, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SharpByCoop

I've always despised the phrase: "He BLEW his motor!" 99.9% of the time HE didn't do this on purpose, the motor blew.

In my case this is only partially true. I drove it 20 miles before it completely locked up. LOL! Crank bearings = NFG.

I ran five HARD passes at the dragstrip attempting to get ONE clean run. Each time the friggin' fuel cut or some limiter come on and then went off. Almost always in second gear. This has happened in the past, and Jimmy (my builder) told me to hold it up there a little higher. Last Dec I did, and it went 11.13et. Twice.

This time: not so fortunate. Working boost guage with memory never exceeded 15.8 lbs, despite twisting it a turn. Jimmy's convinced that did it. I'm not. It barely went 120mph in any configuration.

I was trying to better the 11.13 time. So STUPID close to the tens, I HAD to try. Wouldn't you?

I had installed 4.08:1 gears and considered this to help. Truth is, on the street this is a GREAT mod. At the track, it didn't let the engine boost OR work. I'm dead certain that was the wrong direction. For me. But I had to try it to find out.

Play with fire.

Yes, same components I ran before.

No excuses. The dragstrip is HARD on parts. Five runs in a row flogging it didn't help. (All but one were in the mid elevens.)

The car was smooooth as silk and ran stupendous with over 550whp, until 'I BLEW IT' by going to the strip. LOL!

That is all. I'm searching for an OEM engine and will be parting out the performance parts. Soon.

Jim

Again Coop sorry to here about you built motor failing as I have stated on the G37 forum. The thing that really sucks but stands out is a bearing failure that makes me think oil starvation (burning some oil) or improper clearances during assembly of the engine.

I really hope everything works out for you this just really blows.

showme99 · 10-23-2013, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wattles

Add me to the list.

At 10k miles my motor went down with TT and oil cooler, dual intercooler setup. Boost was set to 10psi and WHP was just over 500.

My check engine light came on and the engine began to run very rough. I had it towed and the code the engine threw was a valve error.

Long story short, I now have a built engine after a long wait and Many dollars invested I hadn't planned on.

What can I say?
You play with fire, you can get burnt!

I'm really sorry to hear this. I hope that you can get your car back on the road again soon. Did anyone figure out what caused the valve error and the subsequent engine failure?

Also, wasn't your car the test vehicle for the 16G MHI Kit (in the link below)?

GTM Performance Engineering: GTM TD05 16G Test Results 91 Octane 7AT

TerribleONE · 10-23-2013, 04:55 PM

This thread makes me cringe... Sorry to all the guys out there that had their motors let go.

Wattles · 10-23-2013, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by showme99

I'm really sorry to hear this. I hope that you can get your car back on the road again soon. Did anyone figure out what caused the valve error and the subsequent engine failure?

Also, wasn't your car the test vehicle for the 16G MHI Kit (in the link below)?

GTM Performance Engineering: GTM TD05 16G Test Results 91 Octane 7AT

Yes my car was the original. Then it had the problem so we rebuilt it when we found out it needed to be cracked open to fix the problem.
It seems it was the valve that bent somehow. Sam said possibly over-rev or something.
So ultimately I went stage1 long block with forged internals.
In the end I ended up with the Garrett turbos and a stage 4 tranny so I wouldn't face any more issues.

COSMO · 10-24-2013, 08:44 AM

It's so much easier buying a car that is already Turboed and to be honest with all of the time and money you have to put into a non-forced induction car you would be looking at almost the same money... The gtr will be my next car.

10-21-2013, 07:37 PM	#51 (permalink)
SS_Firehawk Premium Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Tampa Posts: 4,142 Drives: 13' Magma Red Nismo Rep Power: 7335	There is efficiency to be had with a larger single turbo compared to twins as well, but yes, like Elpuerno said, he was using race gas. __________________ Old Car:GTM TSC'd 550whp / 410lbft tq @ 11.88PSI New Car: Under Construction

10-21-2013, 09:39 PM	#53 (permalink)
Boosted Performance The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Edmonton, AB Posts: 1,629 Drives: Z's Rep Power: 3383	You guys should not be hung up on psi vs. whp. There are a few variable here. One that is mostly overlooked is the type of dyno used. DJ is somewhat the industry standard, but there are other dyno brands that will read a lot lower than a DJ, and a few that will read a lot higher than a DJ. So the power between the lowest reading dyno out there and the highest could be as much as 20%. In the end, each dyno is a tool used to tune a car, and the best way to find out the power a car is putting down is take it down to the drag strip, and make a few runs. There are other things to keep in mind as well. Fuel (especially race gas vs. 91 pump gas), weather conditions/temperature can play a big role, as well as the tuner himself and the way the dyno is set-up. Some tuners for example do not feel comfortable exceeding 420ft/wtq on these engine, and other are more than happy pushing things much further than that. Mkai0 and GaleForce like this. __________________ 750WHP starting @ $7,500 to the door FOR DETAILS VISIT: http://www.the370z.com/members/boosted-performance.html FB: https://www.facebook.com/Boosted-Per...6303179791462/ IG @boostedperformanceyeg

10-22-2013, 12:11 AM	#54 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	it's not about the type of dyno its about how it is calibrated, you can make a dyno dynamics read higher than a dynapack if you wanted to. Mkai0 likes this. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

10-23-2013, 08:59 AM	#55 (permalink)
Wattles Base Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: California Posts: 57 Drives: 2012 G37 IPL 7AT TT Rep Power: 13	Add me to the list. At 10k miles my motor went down with TT and oil cooler, dual intercooler setup. Boost was set to 10psi and WHP was just over 500. My check engine light came on and the engine began to run very rough. I had it towed and the code the engine threw was a valve error. Long story short, I now have a built engine after a long wait and Many dollars invested I hadn't planned on. What can I say? You play with fire, you can get burnt! Mkai0 and elperuano like this. __________________ 2012 G37 IPL 7AT \| GTM Stage 1 Long Block \| GTM Stage 1 Garett TT \| Blitz SBC typeR Boost Controller \| GTM Stage 4 Transmission \| Tial BOV \| Fast Intentions exhaust \| GTM 8qt Oil Pan \| 583whp/484trq @ 13psi

10-23-2013, 04:55 PM	#58 (permalink)
TerribleONE A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Socal Posts: 10,203 Drives: WOT Rep Power: 5851	This thread makes me cringe... Sorry to all the guys out there that had their motors let go. __________________ 638WHP 541WTQ @ 13.5PSI Build thread

10-21-2013, 03:50 PM	#47 (permalink)
blackonorange A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Saskatchewan Posts: 1,078 Drives: 09 370z Rep Power: 16	Sharps built motor failed?! O_o

10-21-2013, 07:32 PM	#50 (permalink)
elperuano A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Southwest FL Posts: 1,374 Drives: G37S Rep Power: 29	FireDan ur numbers were with race gas correct?

10-21-2013, 07:39 PM	#52 (permalink)
elperuano A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Southwest FL Posts: 1,374 Drives: G37S Rep Power: 29	I remembered he was. Would benefit everyone for him to disclose that. Can be misleading and have guys thinking they can make the same powers on pump gas.

10-24-2013, 08:44 AM	#60 (permalink)
COSMO A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: FL Posts: 1,816 Drives: 2012 Touring GTM TT Rep Power: 20	It's so much easier buying a car that is already Turboed and to be honest with all of the time and money you have to put into a non-forced induction car you would be looking at almost the same money... The gtr will be my next car. Mkai0 and Wattles like this.

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