How many went FI and blew a motor?

G37sHKS

Sharpbycoop blew his motor because his RPM was at 8100 while his oil pump system was stock.

You should never mess with Redline RPM before getting the right oiling system to the engine.

Other motor that blew from FI were stillen SC, the fail was from tune and kit it self. (if you want more power go for off road SC which is GTM, but if you want CARB Legal kit then go for Stillen and keep it as it is for god sake..)

I hate seeing people bashing on a kit because they wanted to extract more power from the SC. Go to Stillen Website check the horse power that your car will make with their kit (500 BHP which is around 400ish WHP) and if that achieved your needs then go for it, if not then that kit was never for you and you should blame your self if anything goes wrong with your car after messing with the kit. it's simple as that.

last but not least. Tune is the key of longevity. A bad tune can blow a stock car.

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luigi90210

I couldn't have said it better myself.

Nothing is wrong with the stillen kit and if you live in California there is no reason not to get it unless you plan on making your car 100% track.

I do feel though that you could change the stillen kit up a bit but with stillen/vortech parts, like a vortech impeller and stillen's 9lbs pulley and just make sure your tuner knows what they are doing and you have a rock solid tune because like you said, a bad tune will blow up your car, even if its stock

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SOLD 370z
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Mr.Squeeze

Sharpbycoop said in his post on MYG37 that he wasn't convinced that the 8000 rpm rev limit blew his motor,and I'm not either. I saw and spoke to Jimmy the owner of the shop that built his engine ,let's just say that the engine wasn't blown from high rpm.

I can be added to the list of blown motor with my old Stillen Supercharger set up cylinder 2 piston wring went. A friend of my with a GTM TT 370z Nismo also shot a rod right out the side of his block at 550whp 12.7 PSI of boost after beating on the car for 13k miles.

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Driven Motorsports Single Turbo 7675 T4 1.32 A/R 995WHP 780TQ

Diabel

That "safe" 500whp from GTM TT kit - how many would it be in BHP ?

Baer383

WHP is measured at the rear wheel.

Just go by WHP and you will be better off.

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2013 ZL1

754 rwhp 747 rwtq

Infidel

Typical loss from BHP to WHP is 15%-18% I believe.

2011 Nismo#91

Typically a stock Nismo gets ~290 WHP but is listed as 350 BHP.
83% makes it to the wheels. Or 17% is lost.


So lets say you modded it to output 500 WHP, working backwards is 602 BHP. Which is a hell of a lot of power for a production engine.

For perspective, some other production cars '09 and prior with around that power:
2005 Pagani Zonda F — 594 hp
2009 Bentley Continental Flying Spur Speed — 600 hp
2009 Bentley Continental GT Speed — 600
2008 Dodge Viper SRT-10 — 600 hp
1993 Bugatti EB110 Supersport — 603 hp
2006 Maybach 57S and 62S — 604
2005 Mercedes-Benz SL65 AMG — 604 hp
2006 Mercedes-Benz S65 AMG — 604 hp
2005 Mercedes-Benz CL65 AMG — 604 hp
2004 Porsche Carrera GT — 605 hp
2007 Ferrari 599 GTB Fiorano — 611 hp

Chuck33079

162 hp/liter is massive.

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

Diabel

I'm not convinced that 17% loss is constant for 290whp and 500whp range of power. I think that loss is different at 500whp.

DIGItonium

Last thing on my mind.

I had the kit installed at 22k miles. Currently north of 55k miles right now. It still needs a tune haha, but I'd rather wait. As of last week, the car is not a daily driver anymore.

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Mr&Mrs

Just from the very few that have popped I personally will not go over 500WHP on the stock block. I also drive it like I paid for it so it doesn't see many redline runs. I have to spend to much money on other stuff right now that if I blew mine up it may be a while before it is back on road.

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theDreamer

Remember guys, even with a good list of builds what is known is probably 10-25% of actual boosted 370z on the road. I would say for every failure we see, be it stillen or GTM kit or other, there is 2 more behind it somewhere else.

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2011 Nismo#91

From what I remember in no specific order-

1. Improper Installation blew one motor via a damage fuel line causing a lean condition.

2. A second hand kit pulled from a salvaged car lost oil and damaged the turbine and engine.

3. Most likely a bad tune but yet to be determined caused the motor to be damaged.

4. High rev motor damaged exact cause unknown.

I'm sure there are a few more I don't remember.
Overall blown FI motor are from installation issues then anything else. The majority of people here have the good sense of doing things right.

We are not Honda Civic drivers who buy a FI kit off ebay and install it overnight in our parents garage only to have it blow up in your face the next day trying to be a drift king.

jcosta79

Keeping an FI engine safe boils down to the tuning. As long as you keep detonation out of the engine, you should be okay. Do your research and find a good, smart tuner. (There's not that many of them out there)

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2012 PW NISMO #0559 - GT Spec Brace Kit - Swift Springs - ARK TP & Invidia CBE K&N Intake - UpRev Tune - 15mm Z1 Spacers & Studs - StopTech Slotted Rotors & SS Lines - ZSpeed CMAK with Stage 2 Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel

luigi90210

lol nothing wrong with ebay turbos, just make sure everything is rebuilt and rebalanced and make sure you have a proper oil restrictor(if your setup calls for it) before installing

it pretty much like buying and rebuilding a used turbo except without the worry of having to buy a new compressor wheel

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SOLD 370z
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DD:2011 Mini Cooper S stock