I was able to change my transfluid without removing anything. You just need to cut down the head of an allen key. They are cheap and will save you lots of time.

Yea, I hope the snow stays away for most of the winter here.

I will consider your suggestion and buy more filters.


And picture of the exhaust that was done to connect it to the CNT exhaust.

That exhaust worked out very well.

For those that don't know...I sent Cell the Y-pipe section without the 2-bolt flanges welded on, and the dual 2.5" side of the Y section longer so it was nice and quick for the exhasut shop to simply cut them down to size (length), and weld the two 2-bolt flanges on. Quick/simple/cheap.

Cell, once you go back for your retune, let me know so I can add you to the finished builds thread. If you want to give me your current numbers just to add you that is fine also.

Just need the following info:
-Year
-Kit used
-Current HP/Torque
-Current PSI
-Miles since kit installed
-Other upgrades (clutch/flywheel/engine/etc.), also include miles when these upgrades were completed with done after original FI install

Man when you can post that thread to subscribe;) thanks!!!

This is the finished builds: http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ed-builds.html

BP Twin Scroll is adding many people to this list. :tup:

Thanks a lot Dreamer!!! im planing to get the GTM TT kit in the future for my Z.

Yup, should have 10 more added to the list by the end of this year.

Definitely will when I get the retune. :tup:

It worked out very well. They only had to cut a small portion out and weld the flanges on.



UPDATE on the driving experience:

At IDLE, the engine revs up and down at about a 50-100 rpm range. It is noticeable with the exhaust note and the oil pressure jumping up and down. Not sure why it is doing this but I think it might just be the tune. Hopefully it can be fixed with a retune.

Last night, while driving I noticed something odd. The engine oil was around 175 degrees but the oil pressure dropped to 25 psi which isn't normal. Maybe someone else has an explanation for this? This morning after driving it for 30 minutes, it is back to normal with 185 degree oil temp and 30 psi oil pressure.

With the new clutch and flywheel, I have noticed that it is slightly harder to get into gear now. I either have to increase the RPM and engage it into 1st gear or rev it at a lower RPM and kind of release the clutch a bit quicker. If I don't engage it correctly, it feels like it will stall. This is with a 19lb flywheel.

Another thing is that with the stock trans oil, I noticed that once it gets hot enough, it gets even a bit more harder to drive. I wonder how much more would the motul oil improve the engagement when it is heated up.

One thing the tune did fix compared to stock was the IDLE dropping problem. I recorded the below video when the car had a stock tune.

You and GaleForce are guys who inspire me to tackle an install like this. I'm glad my demon bolt is gone though haha!

Anyone know if the bouncing idle is normal with the oil pressure bouncing and a/f bouncing like that?

I haven't noticed my tach moving like that during idle. Honestly I don't pay attention to it during idle, I listen to the car instead. My oil pressure is rock solid once the car is warm, higher at highway speeds 350kpa and lower 150kpa at idle (normal) . A/F fluctuates during idle (normal).

The only reason why I noticed the jump was after noticing that the sound of the exhaust was jumping up and down.

I hope a tune fixes this.

Is it possible that I am still not running enough oil? The dip stick shows the oil level is about 2-3mm from the top dot and that is after the car is warmed up and driven.

Thanks

George, email me a 30 second log at idle and I will get it looked at.

OK. I will log it.