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Boosted Performance turbo kit self install (review)

The canned tune was based off my car when it was at R/T Tuning. My car was ~460's HP with the original base map (also from Vince). I drove 8+

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Old 09-24-2013, 07:57 AM   #16 (permalink)
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The canned tune was based off my car when it was at R/T Tuning. My car was ~460's HP with the original base map (also from Vince). I drove 8+ hours without an issue with that tune, then Vince touched it up when he was tuning my car. The base tune should be good to go without the boost controller. Having said that, you will probably want to have a tuner make adjustments dependant on fuel octane you intend to use, and your boost controller.
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:08 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Nice work bro!!! I have a question.... its a dumb question loll!!! i always want to know if i install a turbo kit... i have to install forged internals too??? or i can run with oem internals... when i said forged internals i refer to piston & rods.... Let me know if you can... i want to do this on my car in the future

Thanks!!!
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:13 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by carlitos_370z View Post
Nice work bro!!! I have a question.... its a dumb question loll!!! i always want to know if i install a turbo kit... i have to install forged internals too??? or i can run with oem internals... when i said forged internals i refer to piston & rods.... Let me know if you can... i want to do this on my car in the future

Thanks!!!
The rule of thumb here seems to be that you're fine on the stock motor at or below 500whp. Up to 550whp if you want to run on the ragged edge. Above that, plan for a motor build. Some people get away with 550whp for a long time, but that's being fairly aggressive with a stock motor. For peace of mind, stick around the 500 mark.
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:55 AM   #19 (permalink)
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The rule of thumb here seems to be that you're fine on the stock motor at or below 500whp. Up to 550whp if you want to run on the ragged edge. Above that, plan for a motor build. Some people get away with 550whp for a long time, but that's being fairly aggressive with a stock motor. For peace of mind, stick around the 500 mark.
Thanks a lot Chuck....
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:28 AM   #20 (permalink)
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The rule of thumb here seems to be that you're fine on the stock motor at or below 500whp. Up to 550whp if you want to run on the ragged edge. Above that, plan for a motor build. Some people get away with 550whp for a long time, but that's being fairly aggressive with a stock motor. For peace of mind, stick around the 500 mark.
Its not the horse power that breaks the engine apart, its the torque (wheel torque). That being said, a good tune of 600 "WHP" will be much more reliable than bad tune with 350 WHP and will last much longer too.
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:30 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Its not the horse power that breaks the engine apart, its the torque (wheel torque). That being said, a good tune of 600 "WHP" will be much more reliable than bad tune with 350 WHP and will last much longer too.
Well, yeah. The one with the good tune always wins. I was using "a good tune" as a constant.
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:02 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Nice write up
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:30 AM   #23 (permalink)
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The car's lookin' good. I'm glad everything is working out for you Cell. If I was you tho, I would've had the clutch done before the install, that way the shop that will do your clutch would've removed the demon bolts for you since the exhaust needs to come out anyway .

Looking forward to those dyno results.
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Not to mention you need to put a few miles on the fresh clutch before the tune/dyno.


I knew someone was going to mention it.

The only reason why I did the install first was because I rent my garage and I was getting kicked out. I wanted to take advantage of the time I had left with the garage and learn to do the install myself.

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Originally Posted by GaleForce View Post
The canned tune was based off my car when it was at R/T Tuning. My car was ~460's HP with the original base map (also from Vince). I drove 8+ hours without an issue with that tune, then Vince touched it up when he was tuning my car. The base tune should be good to go without the boost controller. Having said that, you will probably want to have a tuner make adjustments dependant on fuel octane you intend to use, and your boost controller.
The tune I received is locked. So I will have to go with a fresh tune if I wanted changes. I asked for the password but I don't think Sasha was able to get it.

Last edited by Cell; 09-24-2013 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:25 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Cell how has your experience been with project x. They seem to be the only reputable Z shop in the Chicago land area.
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:46 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Cell how has your experience been with project x. They seem to be the only reputable Z shop in the Chicago land area.
This is the second time I have gone to them for work. THe first time was just for the cat back install. The service there has been great so far. I don't have any complaints.
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:29 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Nice work! I have been enjoying mine now for about 7 months and running strong.
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:34 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Nice work man!
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:27 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Thank you guys.

I believe the clutch and flywheel is in now. Car is still at the shop, probably getting the exhaust fabbed and a few other things looked over.

Can't wait till I finish breaking in the clutch so I can get it dynoed and tuned.
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Old 10-02-2013, 04:34 PM   #29 (permalink)
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A little update...

I just got the car back today from Project X Customs. Car runs great. One problem with the tune is that it is running a little rich. It will have to be retuned.

Southbend's stage 3 clutch and 19lb flywheel sounds like a tractor trailer. I forgot to tell Project X customs to put the Motul oil that came with the Southbend clutch in so I will have to bring it back another day.

A small thing I noticed after getting my car back was that the turbo manifold actually blocks the port to fill the transmission with the motul oil.

Car feels like stock when it is out of boost. WHen it is in boost, it feels great. With the current CNT exhaust, it is actually not that loud and the BOV + Turbo spool sounds louder. Kind of makes me want to go with open dumps.

Now I have to break the clutch in with 500-1000 miles of city driving, then get it retuned and have the gauges mounted to where the center cubby hole is.

EDIT: Forgot to mention that oil now sits around 185-190 while cruising at 70mph in 75 degree weather. That is with a 30r oil cooler.
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Last edited by Cell; 10-02-2013 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 10-02-2013, 04:55 PM   #30 (permalink)
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You have to pull the piping to change the trans fluid. Just do it when you change the air filter since you will be in there anyways. I suggest ordering a couple more air filters from Sasha to keep as they usually come out with rub marks since the space is so tight.

Enjoy the boost, hopefully the snow stays away for you for some time yet.
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