Ya, it maxes out at 60 or something when you let off the gas.

I really do man.. The shop I want to have tune it is booked till like the 15th, otherwise I would be taking work off monday to tune. So if this tune looks ok, I'll be able to break it in and putt around till then. Hopefully Sam looks at my log file and sends me a new file with a little more updated tune to throw at it

Also, I have the Cipher log if anyone wants to take a look :excited:

My car runs 14.7 at idle so that sounds right but I agree with Dzel, don't trust a canned tune.

factory a/f at idle is around 15.3, sounds like you are fine you want it stay under 12.5 boosted and around 11.5 in the higher rpms when you are on it. do a WOT and check the log. if cipher logs knock count you can check that too. most of the startup canned tunes are fine they are usually rich enough to keep you out of trouble.

Edit: the 12.5 and 11.5 afr's may be low when you get it tuned they can push it leaner so long as you don't knock to make more power

I'm on a slightly tweaked canned tune so I guess it isn't really anymore. Your idle is fine maxing out with a coast is also fine. You need a WOT pull to see what you lean out to in the higher RPMS. Without a knock check I don't like to go over 12 WOT but that's just me being cautious I guess.

I'm around 12.3 WOT and in boost, idle kinda jumped around today, I saw 13s a couple times but once it sits and stabilizes it likes to be around 14.4-14.7. I need to get a bit better of a WOT pull in the upper RPM band but it seems low 12s-high11s I believe. I only went into higher RPM a couple times, and I was fairly focused on the road. It definitely has some balls, I saw probably 7lbs around 6k rpm. Didn't wanna run it too hard, still shaking out some bugs and breaking it all in nicely.

One thing that drives me NUTS, around 2100-2500rpm theres a squeal somewhere. Not sure where, I'm not toooo worried about it, but it's insanely annoying. Not sure if its blower related, idler pulley related, or just some sorta resonance. Very happy so far, setting up a tune and dyno time tomorrow.. The buttdyno though for today, felt around 420-430whp and 330ish wtq if I had to guess. Excited for tune and being able to hammer on the car :) Had to stop driving, no bumper + exposed oil cooler = barely 180 degrees, and after 45mph, it would drop below 180, but bumper goes on tonight, so I think I'll be ok once it's on.

finally got the car on the dyno today, but we were losing fuel at the top end. gotta check a couple things, talked to Sam@GTM and he recommended putting a fuel pressure gauge in and seeing what was happening, he said it might be a bad pump. Gonna pull the fuel bowl out again and check things, kinks, etc. Only did a couple pulls but couldn't get it to stop leaning out at the end.. the strainer at the bottom of the fuel pump on the pickup was touching the bowl so i think that's the issue. Timing wasn't touched from the stock GTM ROM file, so there's still a bit of power to gain.. car ran good though other than that horrible lean condition at the end :( first run, which the video is of, the car made 459whp on the original gtm canned tune. car for now is rev limited to keep it out of the lean spot at the end.. :tiphat:

http://i.imgur.com/Od6bv6A.jpg

I would recommend changing out the stock fuel line as I believe it's too small to provide enough fuel at the top end. My fuel pressure was dropping to 20 psi @ 6000 RPM. :eek:

I've since upgraded to CJ motorsports twin fuel pump and return fuel system. Overkill, yes, but I won't have any more fuel problems ;)

I recommend changing out the fuel line to a proper size and a fuel return system.

The first place I would start would be the fuel pump relay like the one that GTM makes. Someone did a writeup of how to make your own.

i'll check out the CJM kit and the fuel lines..interesting

Chuck, I have the voltage stabilizer. I'l have to check my ground i suppose.

I really think it may be the the fact that the strainer that attaches to the pickup on the pump is pressed against the bottom of the fuel bowl. I thought it'd be ok since it pulls from all directions through that strainer but im thinking thats the issue and it needs to be off the bottom of the bowl. i talked to Sam@GTM yesterday and he said it could be a bad fuel pump too. well see.. such a bummer after all that hard work, but man when I saw that baseline flat 460whp i was so glad it all worked lol

Any input on whether or not to get an aftermarket radiator?

I have seen the stock fuel lines go over 600whp but not saying its a bad idea. If your not running over 500-550whp I wouldn't worry about it. I would consider running a better to fuel pump like the aeromotive stealth 340 ..

I'm curious what the actual issue is, you really do see a bunch of FI guys getting away with just an upgraded pump/injectors.

I went ahead and ordered Phunk's fuel pressure gauge

Great place to start so you can diagnose the issue. As Tony @ FI has mentioned during the development of his TT kit, these cars have fuel pressure issues at top RPMs under boost--even on stock block boost levels. Given that your SC is gonna need even more fuel than the turbo kit at around the same power, you should probably be considering an upgraded fuel system no matter what the acute issue is here.

BTW, congrats on some nice power!