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So I remember I decided to log a ran/fan duty cycle once to see if this was ever changed, had to find it. Using this image from the coolant fan

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Old 08-19-2013, 02:58 PM   #31 (permalink)
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So I remember I decided to log a ran/fan duty cycle once to see if this was ever changed, had to find it.
Using this image from the coolant fan speed thread, this is the OEM setup:
( Click to show/hide )


My logs follow it down to the t, at 214 I can see it go from 0% to 55% and so on as the log jumps to 219 degrees and the duty cycle hit 85%, never got to 221 but I have seen it before and I could hear the fans pumping!

So I would say I am using the stock OEM fan duty cycle, and shovel, I have noticed when I turn the car over from off, and start to back out or move the intake temp & water temp drop about 2 degrees usually.
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:00 PM   #32 (permalink)
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To add to this, I am going to say my TS hood will not be on prior to getting my new tune (adjusting fan speeds) so this will give a nice comparison also on what the fan speed change will do to our car.
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:03 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by theDreamer View Post
So I remember I decided to log a ran/fan duty cycle once to see if this was ever changed, had to find it.
Using this image from the coolant fan speed thread, this is the OEM setup:
( Click to show/hide )


My logs follow it down to the t, at 214 I can see it go from 0% to 55% and so on as the log jumps to 219 degrees and the duty cycle hit 85%, never got to 221 but I have seen it before and I could hear the fans pumping!

So I would say I am using the stock OEM fan duty cycle, and shovel, I have noticed when I turn the car over from off, and start to back out or move the intake temp & water temp drop about 2 degrees usually.
I've never bothered to log duty cycle (until today, let me weed through the log I made on my lunch break) but damn, that's distressing.

See, I thought that it would extrapolate between data points like it does on other tables. Looks like it just follows the values you enter exactly... which makes it a damned chunky table.
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:08 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Since we are talking about it, here is the simple log I did about a month ago.
Where the vertical blue line is, in case you cannot read the numbers:
-Coolant temp 215.6°F
-Intake air temp 124°F
-Rad/fan duty 55%

The red line jumps up again after the vertical blue line from 215ish to 219 but the rad/fan cycle does not change until it gets to the top above 217 degrees. So yes, it is very much a, target must equal value or it does not change.

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Old 08-19-2013, 03:20 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Yeah, you're definitely right.

I just correlated it with my log from today:



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Old 08-19-2013, 03:24 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Since it isn't extrapolating between data points, I'm gonna change 160 to 185 and give it a 30-35% or so, since that's (about) where the t-stat is opening.
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:25 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Now my question is, to those who tinker with Uprev more than I do, would it be possible to generate new columns to allow a more gradual change in speed? Since we can change the values to anything we can, would be nice to have a larger file so it is not just x = y but more of a gradual increase.
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:31 PM   #38 (permalink)
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I would imagine the count of the columns and the temps of those columns aren't something UpRev can change easily, just the values within.
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:31 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theDreamer View Post
Now my question is, to those who tinker with Uprev more than I do, would it be possible to generate new columns to allow a more gradual change in speed? Since we can change the values to anything we can, would be nice to have a larger file so it is not just x = y but more of a gradual increase.
Only Uprev/Nissan can change the number of columns unfortunately.

It's pretty rare that the column count changes, but it has happened a couple of times.

I don't expect that they will be making any effort to change the column count for fan control tho :-/

You can't edit the first column but you can use the other three.

In your situation, I would run a 180/190/200 table and have 30%/60%/100% unless you get into oil temp issues.

(I don't know how physically coupled your oil cooler is to your radiator, so I don't know how much fan speed affects it. Mine is in complete contact with and sealed to my radiator, so fan speed directly effects its' efficiency.)
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:36 PM   #40 (permalink)
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This, basically.



That said, if you still have the stock radiator, I don't know that all the fan in the world will get back under 200F if you're really giving it the beans, but I'd at least flog them into trying. The car definitely likes being between 185 and 200 degrees.
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:37 PM   #41 (permalink)
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That is what I was planning on running, I very rarely see over 205-210 water temps unless I am stuck in bumper to bumper traffic for 20 minutes.
My oil cooler is a bit annoying, there are lines running to migrate the oil filter to the other side of the oil pan, and then my oil cooler itself is located underneath the driver side headlight tucked away. Venting that fender liner would probably do more benefit cooling wise than fan speed change.

Saw your next post, I have the CSF radiator, lasted a year with stock before I upgraded.
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:42 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by theDreamer View Post
That is what I was planning on running, I very rarely see over 205-210 water temps unless I am stuck in bumper to bumper traffic for 20 minutes.
My oil cooler is a bit annoying, there are lines running to migrate the oil filter to the other side of the oil pan, and then my oil cooler itself is located underneath the driver side headlight tucked away. Venting that fender liner would probably do more benefit cooling wise than fan speed change.

Saw your next post, I have the CSF radiator, lasted a year with stock before I upgraded.
So yeah you probably need to vent the fender for sure (forgot that the GTM setup moves the cooler there) and think about adding a compact fan there for it if you get into issues. Fan speed will have zero (positive) effect on your oil cooler, so you can focus just on coolant temps.

With the CSF you should be able to use a table like the one I posted and have a reasonable expectation of the car keeping itself under 200 deg. With the stock table...not so much. I think it's an emissions thing or something that makes Nissan run the temps so high, but the car definitely pulls timing and makes less power when you let the temps get that high... Now what I have no data on is what voltage is being reported when you are running your A/C.

Can we even log that?

Because it may be running your fans wide open already in traffic if you have the A/C on and it's a billion degrees outside. You could at least log the duty cycle and see where that is landing?
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:46 PM   #43 (permalink)
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I can add the duty cycle to the things I log just to get it included and more data.
Not sure on voltage, but it should be able to log it.

I know chuck has asked I do the same logs with A/C off if possible, I think he just wants me to sweat in my car.
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:54 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I know chuck has asked I do the same logs with A/C off if possible, I think he just wants me to sweat in my car.
Of course

The only time I get the temp gauge to start creeping up is 100+ degree days when I get stuck in traffic with the AC running full blast. No problems with the AC off and windows down. It would be interesting to see the actual water temp difference between running the AC and leaving it off.
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:18 PM   #45 (permalink)
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When looking at fan duty tradeoffs (well, post-warm-up - obviously we want the fans off until the car is basically warmed up), as far as I can tell there's only two downsides to running the fans full speed all the time: Current draw on the alternator adding drag to the engine, and wearing out the fans faster. I could care less if the fans fail every 3 years instead every 5 years or whatever, cost of doing business. I would expect the current draw to be offset by the power gains from running cooler by a mile.

Then there's MPH thing, but if you've got other devices stacked up with your radiator for direct flow (oil coolers, intercoolers), then even at speed I think the fans are helping move air through the stack better. So my philosophy on the whole thing tends to come out to "ignore speed and AC stuff. If the coolant temps are 180+, fans go 100%"
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