Another BORING Nitrous build starts

chrischhorn

Nope it's definitely maxed out lol.

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R.I.P. 8/01/13 1SlowZ
One day I'll have another....

AlexRaymond19

Sub'd

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2010 370Z Touring MT | Stillen | Motordyne | Momentum| Z1 | Fast Intentions | Advant Garde | RE11 | Swift | SPC | Quaife | Whiteline | Evo R | 322RWHP 259ft-lb Mustang

Masterbeatty

Nice dude! where are you going to mount the the switches and bottle?

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2011 MB 6MT
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chrischhorn

Here is my switch setup. I utilized the cubby box so I can keep it hidden a bit Of course the piece of wood will be getting carpeted to blend better.



The bottle mounting is a whole different story. I want to mount it where the spare tire is but I may have to drop the gas tank.... Still trying to decide. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Going for more of the stealth look but it may not be possible.

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R.I.P. 8/01/13 1SlowZ
One day I'll have another....

FPenvy

sub'd

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324whp/258wtq AAM Tuned |F.I. NonRes CF CBE/NonRes TestPipes #373|UpRev Tuner|Akuma Motorsports Intakes|Z1 34 Row Oil Cooler

Masterbeatty

sweet locatioin for the switches. that is a good spot to hide many accessories. For the tank you can pull some torretto status and put it under the passenger side seat.

J/K I know it's too big for that. But what about the space between the bar and spare tire. Is the space wide enough with all the stuff on the bottle. Just leave out the foam.

I have also seen it depending on what type of exhaust you have mounting it outside the car centerline where the muffler is since you have a remote.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...9DSC00011a.JPG

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Sh0velMan

That looks safe....

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Buy My Car! | Build Thread

skosmc

Sub'd. Loving this build so far.

chrischhorn

Yeah under the car is not an option for any reason unless I build a protective barrier for it but even still would be far too much hassle and would just look terrible under the *** of the Z lol. I may go the way V8Killer setup his bottle on that mid frame piece. The 10lb bottle does not fit where the foam piece is between that frame point and the rear bar. I'd like to keep it hidden but dropping the gas tank looks like my only route at this point to do that. Not a problem at all as I'm in no rush to finish this project. Doing it once and doing right but until I find a mounting point I like, I'm at a stand still for running all the wiring and what not.

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R.I.P. 8/01/13 1SlowZ
One day I'll have another....

NeverBoneStck

Yo .... Do the gym bag ..

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Juiced! That is all you need to know !!

OldRice

So I offer this suggestion for bottle placement. Mind you I have a 350Z so I am not sure if Nissan carried the same trunk features to the 370 and could not tell in your earlier gutted pics. In the spare wheel well on 350's there used to be a weird shaped cardboard like piece that lays across the spare under your trunk mat. Under all that there used to be a threaded mounting hole in the middle of the trunk\hatch area that is used for a screw fastner to hold the spare in place. What I did was to remove all those pieces (weigh savings from the spare). I then used the odd shaped carpet mat as a template that I transposed over to some 1/2" pink foam insulation board (avail @ hardware stores) to create a mock trunk floor that lays atop the rear interior wheel well trim pieces and bridges the "gap" where your spare was. Once trimmed and fitted, I transposed the foam board shape to 1/2" MDF. Then drilled a center hole in the MDF in vertical alignment to the factory threaded mounting hole for the spare.

Then I used this bottle bracket type (see attch pic). It come with predrilled holes. I widened the center hole on the plate and bought a 7" long hex screw. Put in your dummy mdf floor, center your bottle bracket plate hole, run the long hex screw to the spare mounting hole, and tighten the the whole thing down. It all holds together with compression, avoids having to drill the trunk floor and dropping the gas tank, and you can revert to stock without permanent alteration. Carpet the MDF and you have that pro-look. My avatar is the finished look. Hopefully my concept is clearly explained.

...then do the hide-a-gym-bag thing if stealth is important.

Attached Images

	BottleBrkt.jpg (52.4 KB, 35 views)
	350ztrunkview.jpg (65.6 KB, 67 views)

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Nitrous Outlet 57N 33F +NANO = 349whp/353wtq

chrischhorn

Repped for this! This is a VERY good alternative to what I was looking to do. I was really wanting to do something without having to drill holes in the floor board other then the blow down tube of course. I was actually thinking of using the spare tire tie down screw for something useful and this definitely made it all come together in my head VERY quickly. While doing all this, I also ordered a Odyssey PC 680 battery and will be relocating it to the rear not only to make it a little easier to run some wires but for better balance and some weight reduction

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R.I.P. 8/01/13 1SlowZ
One day I'll have another....

OldRice

Yes the solution actually works out really well. Additionally you can drill a 2" grommet hole with a 2" serrated hole bit in your dummy floor. Then go to Menards\HomeDepot and buy a black plastic desk grommet insert (pic). This will allow you to drop your bottle lines and wires into the spare wheel well vacancy.

Also piercing that factory rubber grommet in the upper left corner of your Z (where the wire loom is) will be your best method to run your primary N2O feeder line under the car, up into the engine bay, to pick up your solenoids.

Attached Images

grommet.jpg (2.8 KB, 6 views)

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Nitrous Outlet 57N 33F +NANO = 349whp/353wtq

chrischhorn

The N20 line is already running through that grommet If possible, can you post up some better pics of your setup? I'd love to see how you went about it with yours. Thanks

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R.I.P. 8/01/13 1SlowZ
One day I'll have another....

OldRice

^^^Ok, so these pics are to generate ideas only as obviously some of the layout won't work due to dual intakes\TBs, fuel rail location, and other minor nuances between 350 & 370.

The trunk shots are to show you fitment of my MDF false trunk floor. The middle hex screw secures the bottle bracket to the board, the top hex is the long screw connecting down to the spare mount (under the board). Additionally under the board and mounted to the back wall is a 40/60amp relay and my progressive controller "brain". Most wiring travels under the carpet and thru driver\passgr kick plate trim edging.

Remote bottle momentary switch is on the plastic panel home to the fuse box. I chose that location cuz there is empty room in there, and again if I wanted to revert to stock I just need a new cheap panel. Solenoid wiring runs under the rubber passthru grommet to a relay in the batt pod area. Easy 12V feed to relay and switch panel wiring running thru a wire loom grommet around where passenger windshield meets dash.

Switch command center is where my OEM nav used to be. Fabbed an aluminum backplate, powdercoated wrinkle black and went with Dorman 30amp toggles. NAV keyboard was popped of buttons\joystick and wrapped. Dynotune pressure gauge is 3M taped to side for easy removal.

My ultimate goal was to limit any permanent alterations to the dash and such to give me the option to revert to stock look. I didn't care about the OEM NAV as it is dated technology and I went double din headunit that is better NAV.

Attached Images

	dummytrunkfloor.jpg (502.3 KB, 50 views)
	hexscrewfastner.jpg (293.5 KB, 37 views)
	grommet_loc.jpg (409.4 KB, 29 views)
	fueltap+cutoff.JPG (537.8 KB, 30 views)
	Nozzles.jpg (398.1 KB, 40 views)
	purge.jpg (391.1 KB, 39 views)
	solenoid1.jpg (387.5 KB, 52 views)
	solenoid2.jpg (507.3 KB, 32 views)
	switches.jpg (486.2 KB, 59 views)
	remotebottleswtch.JPG (541.2 KB, 41 views)

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Nitrous Outlet 57N 33F +NANO = 349whp/353wtq