I posted dyno numbers in my thread and later thought people would like to see them in this thread as well. Here are the official Dyno numbers from my car
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04-19-2013, 09:46 PM | #61 (permalink) |
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I posted dyno numbers in my thread and later thought people would like to see them in this thread as well. Here are the official Dyno numbers from my car with the Boosted Performance twin scroll mid mount turbo kit.
Official numbers, 521.99 whp 476.49 torque 11.54 lbs boost I will post up the dyno graph once we get back to Canada. Sasha, thanks for the great kit and the excellent customer service! Also thanks to the guys at R/T Tuning for the great tune and hospitality.
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04-20-2013, 07:09 AM | #64 (permalink) |
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Need to update your profile brother...
"Drives: a Zleeper" to: "Drives: a MonZter" Numbers are redonk, grats man, looks like that housing paid dividends. This damned kit is getting better and better. Grats to Sasha as well!! |
04-20-2013, 10:26 AM | #65 (permalink) | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
On the numbers...as I have mentioned before, it is largely up to the tuner. They will go as far as they feel is safe. Each tuner will have a different personal opinion/idea on what a safe number is for each setup (some kits are more efficient than others). They will tune the car for optimal performance, keeping safety and longevity as top priority. In the end, as long as it is a clean pull (no knock, and good a/f ratios) you should be good to go. The torque curve is also something to look at as some tuners will "ease" in to it and other will be more aggressive as boost comes up (torque shoots straight up). These are small things, and this is why it is always best to look at the dyno sheets from a customer rather than from the shop that actually builds/sells the kit. I have seen shops post crazy numbers on one kit, and then customers go out and fall 25% short on what the manufacturer advertises. Not a good way to do business IMO. But then again, to some the bottom line is the price so in the end you get what you pay for. It is easy for a manufacturer to make a product look better than it really is, but then you have to answer the “why can’t I duplicate these results” type questions. Thanks, but no thanks. I interact with all of my customers though PM’s an email about a lot of things, but would not want to be in the position where I have to answer that question.
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04-20-2013, 10:28 PM | #66 (permalink) |
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For the record 93 octane was used to achieve these numbers. I don't need to waste my time with race fuel when I'm not going to use it.
Before the tuning started Vince asked what I wanted as a result for the tuning. I said anything over 500hp would be good to me as long as if he thought it could be achieved safely. I will post the dyno sheet next week.
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04-21-2013, 09:00 PM | #70 (permalink) | |
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I will be doing a test on the next local dyno tune comming up in a couple of weeks here to figure this boost thing out. I have done a lot of research, and it seems that the 1.32 a/r housing may just be optimal for these engines in the high RPM's. The dyno Gale posted is with the 1.15 a/r housing, and it still spools VERY fast. Because it does spool so fast, the turbine may still be a bit of a restriction in the upper RPM's. It makes perfect sense, but needs to be proven. To do this, I will log the EBP (exhaust back pressure) on the identical housing for a local tune with the 1.15 a/r housing. This is the exhaust pressure just before the turbine housing inlet (not after the turbo). This will give me (and I will share this as I do everything) a solid idea of what is going on, and if a larger turbine is indeed the way to go. This was my suspicion with with the 1.0 a/r housing, hence the upgrade in size. It did not work out as I had anticipated. This engine is very efficient, and flows so well (and a lot) in the 6,000 to 8,000rpm that these (smaller) turbines may be a bit of a restriction. I have spend a lot of time trying to figure this out. I have also talked to a couple of shops that run these turbos on stroked 2JZ's, and they are making 700whp with these turbos and the 1.15 a/r housings. The guys are also saying that they would not even think about going to the 1.32 a/r housings as they are "for V8's". I am starting to think that the 370z engine at 7,500rpm flows a lot more than a V8 at 5,000rpm (for example). I also have a customer making 580whp with the identical twin scroll kit on a 350z, and the boost is solid from 3,500rpm to 7,000rpm on a 350z. But then again, on the VQ35, there is no point of going any higher with the RPM's, and there is a 200cc displacement difference. It seems like the boost holds just fine up to about 6,500rpm, and then falls a bit after that. I am not sure why the EBC is unable to hold the boost steady/flat. I will get to the bottom of it, and as mentioned will report back.
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04-21-2013, 09:11 PM | #71 (permalink) |
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I have the same problem holding full boost to redline... Up towards the top it'll start droppin a little under 11 psi.
Great numbers Gale. Sure must be a blast to drive now! |
04-21-2013, 09:12 PM | #72 (permalink) |
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What kit, or I should ask what turbine housing?
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04-21-2013, 09:19 PM | #74 (permalink) |
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I think it is common, it's just that nobody posts dyno charts with the boost curve. Or at least it is very uncommon.
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