Anybody running a HFC with this? Or is it not recommended due to heat?

where would you put it?

:tup: thinking the same thing

With an OEM like exhaust it is possible. I am doing this on a 350Z twin scroll kit for a customer that requested it.

These are $500ea, just for the converters (3"inlet 3" outlet):

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps05bec5b9.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps245308bb.jpg

Looks so pretty.

Boosted Performance

Check out the MillSpec Cats. Way cheaper and are 304 SS and you can get them in 100 Cell or 200 Cell.

These are what we use at the races for GTA Event.

Mil.Spec :: Universal :: 100 cell cats

Would you be able to make one like that with an O2 bung on each side for our 370's? I live in a magnificent province of tree huggers who enjoy fu#@!^g us over with useless emissions test every 2 years. I was planing on getting an O2 simulator just so I can turn on my secondary O2 monitor back on for the test but if I can get functioning cats on the car, that'd be much better. Something easily removable would be awesome.

thats what i was thinking too.

BP gets better and better!

Reason I asked was because I was thinking about picking up berk hfc...but hopefully planning on getting a BP kit either at the end of the year or early next year.

I love to roll my windows down when weather permits, but didn't want to deal with fumes.

you will be going so fast the fumes wont catch up:driving:

Houston...we have some bad traffic at times. :(

Not all clutches require a 1,000 mile break in, "ANY" full face clutch should be broke in a minimum of 500 miles, This allows the clutch material to flatten out so it will hold all of the TQ it is made to hold.

Puck style clutches can be broke in in as little as 300 miles as they are more abrasive and will seat/flatten out faster.

Kevlar clutches require a 1,000 mile break in because of the material, It is non-abrasive which will take longer to settle in, but on the up side, it doesn't wear the opposing surfaces (flywheel and pressure plate)

Sasha, where would you recommend putting the cat if you have the OEM like exhaust? Would you just put a single in the downpipe after bend prior to OEM-like mid-pipe flange? What about inserting two, one in each branch, in the mid-pipe?

Going E85 is another option. That was one of the reasons I went with it. The fumes are barely detectable without cats. When I was on 91 it was giving me a headache.

Plus its a whole lot easier to pass strict emissions regulations when running E. You only have 15% petrol to deal with and any HFC will get you by.

Sasha, This would be awesome to see so people could swap a cat in place for testing and swap it out when done. So much easier than taking the turbo itself off and all piping.

Thanks, will keep these in mind for future.

It would go in the circle:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps0c9d7d27.jpg

The second part of the down pipe would be replaced by a high flow converter. The recirc would probably have to be moved a bit further towards the back, but that is not a big deal. The recirc would also be after the cat, so only the exhaust gases that go through the turbo would go through the converter while in boost.