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It also appears my yellow spring was on the low end of the scale. My max boost on spring was .46bar ~ 6.8lbs |
this is correct, that is tuned on the wastegates only, I cano contact vince and find out what the true baseline is.
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That's cool. I got a range of what it should make on spring and DJ for my comparison needs.
My Stillen exhaust is more restrictive. Bottom line I'm making more low end torque compared to top end whp. Trq > hp anyway |
How does everyone's scavenge pump sound? How long did you guys idle/drive before the cement mixer noise subsided?
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It never does. Nice thing is you'll always know its working
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The quietest it will get is when its pumping oil. Once the bumper goes back on, it is barely noticeable. And about the hot start issue... I haven't had a chance to drive it yet because I haven't got my leaky oil fitting replaced yet, but I had it idling in the garage and when you shut it off and restart it, It starts a little rough. Not that bad though, didn't need to give it throttle or anything. I figured it was the tune like jlo said
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:icon18: its the only way people know something is up with my ride LOL |
The pump will make noise when the engine is off since it is not pumping any oil. As the gears brake vacuum you will hear it. When the car is on, and oil is moving through, the pump is rather quiet.
I had tested a pumps function a long time ago and I set it up to move oil from one bucket to another...the pump just hums where there is a full load of oil going through it, but when it is just a trickle, it will make noise. Just not enough oil in the gear housing. |
Well my build has tested me. I had less problems twin charging my 350z..lol.
Upon first start up I had E85 literally pouring out of my exhaust. After figuring out it was my injector on cylinder 2 that was stuck wide open and I had them cleaned. Then a ticking/tapping noise appeared. The noise can also be heard from under the car rather well like its coming from the intake filter. I had a buddy come listen to it and we both agreed it sounded like a bent valve. We suspected my ID1000 dumped so much fuel that it hydrolocked that cylinder and tried to compress the fuel, which doesn't compress. I went and purchased a leak down tester and all cylinders tested under 10% loss. So it isn't a bent valve. It doesn't sound at all like a knock so I'm not concerned about it being a rod. The sound is hard to pinpoint as it comes from the entire plenum. I first used a paper towel roll to listen around the bay but couldn't figure it out. Then bought a mechanics stethoscope and still cant figure it out. I am thinking it may be an oiling issue at this point and may be a lifter or all lifters not getting properly lubricated. Thinking this because I had to drain all 7 quarts of my full synthetic oil since there was fuel in it due to the cylinder filling with it then leaking past the rings into the pan. The second time I filled it "when the noise started" I only put 4 quarts in, in case the injector was still bad I didn't want to ruin another full 7 quarts. But maybe by only putting 4 quarts in, it wasn't able to properly lubricate everything. I now have 7 quarts in but the noise is still there. Ive also heard that if a damper goes bad it can make this noise. I think the noise has calmed down a bit but now after listening to everything for so long I don't know what I am hearing anymore. Maybe this sound was always there but with the engine cover off and the hood closed always when running it was just muffled. Also, my car idles really rough from the base map and this may be a totally different situation since I had a new base map made for my setup vs. the original map everyone else has. Any suggestions? |
Knocking noise - Maybe the valve train is beginning to get lubricated again after being 3 qts shy and that is why the noise is going away? Keep in mind these valve trains are rather noisy as is.
Did you get all of the old fuel out before going E85? What is your idle AFR? If you don't have a wideband, just log using UpRev and check the OEM sensor readings. |
Its not a knocking. Its definitely a ticking/tapping/Loud clicking noise that increases with revs though. Its not my injector solenoids either as I know what those sound like and are just a quiet clicking. It actually sounds like an injector if the sound was magnified by 20x though.
I did get all old fuel out. I think. I sucked it clean with a wet shopvac. I hooked the vac up to the in tank line and tried sucking everything over from the drivers side but not much came out. Maybe that could be an idle issue. My wideband is connected post turbo in the 3 inch downpipe and reads super lean. Im seeing it bounce from 15.8 up to 18. My OEM pre cat sensors are reading fine though. I am using a tablet and Bluetooth OBDII to read that. If I give it enough gas it puffs smoke out the tailpipes. Maybe I should dump another 5 gallons of E85 in to ensure Im on the E and not on what that drivers side possibly had in it. |
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The base map is custom for your ID1000's so the car def. needs to be tuned. |
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Also, I didn't notice this when these same injectors were in my 350z. I did put in an 8lb spring in the BOV instead of the 11 that came with the kit. Now it holds it fully open at idle. My reasoning being that on my 350 the 11 lb was too strong and I had stupid surge at anything besides full boost. But I think I have stronger vacuum on the 370. Anyone getting the flutter sound at half boost on the original bov spring? |
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I wouldn't go in to boost on that map till it is tuned. The slight flutter is normal. |
Yeah It hasn't even left the jackstands yet. Right now it has no plenum or plugs.
I know the flutter is ok and normal. I just dont like it. Sounds like crap when it does that. Some people like it and try for it. To each their own. I just hope the amount of air coming in isnt creating some weird vortech in the intake pipes and throwing my MAF's off. Ill probably pick up the spring between this and the 11lb one. |
Check compression on that cylinder? It will be down if the rod is bent compared to the others. You could have easily bent a rod with a hydro-locked cylinder.
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Probably isnt it but my flywheel just ate my crank sensor, my string of bad luck will not stop...the car would not start, when I got it started I could hear a high speed tapping, it was the sensor teeth hitting the sensor, kind of sounded like a valve, at first I thought valve train... if everything else checked out might be worth pulling it out and looking, dropping my trans out again twice this month haha, getting terribly good at it.
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http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...psonlv3q5p.jpg |
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When you pull the trans take a good look at where the block dowels go into the trans and see if they are damaged or the trans is gouged out around where they are supposed to sit. |
they are there I can tell you that. The sensor however is bolted to the engine, not the trans housing, and the flywheel is bolted to the engine, so even it is was hypothetically, I cannot see it moving the flywheel in any way shape or form, but I will let you know what I find, Shane looked at it and suspects the tooth ring crack and shifted, this one is way thinner that the one on the steel flywheel...
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So my problems were associated to my injectors. It really sucks spending $700 on high performance aftermarket injectors and they go to hell in 3 years. Chances are it is just one but still really delayed my build and has cost me a lot of time and money.
Put my new set of ID1000's in and it purrs like a kitten now. About time! I guess not like a kitten since my scavenge pump still sounds like a tractor and drowns out any purring. Sasha, How do I get this to stop? Sounds like some of you guys haven't figured it out yet either. I have let my car idle for 15 minutes and revved it up trying to flood the pump so it turns to the "hum" it is supposed to. Maybe after driving it for a while it will fully flood? |
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Can you hear it over your car idling if your standing by your drivers door? I know I would have to focus on it to really hear it at an idle. |
I can hear mine over idle inside the car
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It's kind of nice cuz I always know its working. I do have to pull the fuse on the relay if I want to work on the car with ignition on but not having the car started. |
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Trust me, if it stops working you'll have so much blue smoke you will know something is seriously wrong. I was installing a boost controller and I unplugged it for the very reason you guys did. The car idled about a minute and in that minute it took about 30 mins of driving to get the smoke out of the exhaust.
I literally blanketed a 4 lane road for a couple minutes till it all burned off. lol. |
If you look at the pump specs:
Exa-Pump® You can see that it is rated to move up to 3 gallons of oil per minute. This is essentially an overkill for this set-up, but this is by far the best pump you can get for this application. Because the pump is moving a small fraction of it's maximum capacity (especially at idle), it will naturally make more noise. There is just not enough oil to fill the gear housing and silence the pump. There is nothing to worry about, the pump is working fine. |
Injectors man, I swear that has been the root of all problems I've heard in te last month.
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Anybody want to buy a set of ID1000's with one most likely junk for $350? Only used for 10K miles. :icon14: |
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Lol really? 85$? Like why the charge.
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R.K. |
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If the injectors are designed to run E85 then why does it need to be cleaned so often? If your fuel system doesn't have the equipment to support E85, you shouldn't be running E85 anyways because of it being corrosive. |
does anyone else notice the cooling fans coming on at 75% duty cycle at around 180 degrees on the base tune? seems a little excessive to me...
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