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-   -   Boosted Performance round 2 list (http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/69496-boosted-performance-round-2-list.html)

jwick 04-16-2014 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ (Post 2783606)
Ok. I feel like a moron. Maybe because I punched myself in the face last night after slipping off a wrench for a final tighten down of everything. But I cant figure out how to hook up my wastegates with a manual boost controller.

The two bottom barbs T together and go to the drivers side intake pipe nipple.

The two top barbs T together and go to the intake of the boost controller.

So where does the out of the boost controller go?

Tee off the charge pipe line that you are running to the bottom of the waste gates. I would recommend pretty close to the original intake pipe takeoff.

You could also tap the charge pipe for an additional barb if you want a new pressure source.

jwick 04-16-2014 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ (Post 2783606)
Ok. I feel like a moron. Maybe because I punched myself in the face last night after slipping off a wrench for a final tighten down of everything. But I cant figure out how to hook up my wastegates with a manual boost controller.

The two bottom barbs T together and go to the drivers side intake pipe nipple.

The two top barbs T together and go to the intake of the boost controller.

So where does the out of the boost controller go?

PM me your cell number and I'll shoot you a sketch of how I'm going to plumb mine. It's for a EBC but there is no difference between the manual and solenoid valve in the plumbing configuration with my Profec.

Boosted Performance 04-16-2014 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ (Post 2783606)
Ok. I feel like a moron. Maybe because I punched myself in the face last night after slipping off a wrench for a final tighten down of everything. But I cant figure out how to hook up my wastegates with a manual boost controller.

The two bottom barbs T together and go to the drivers side intake pipe nipple.

The two top barbs T together and go to the intake of the boost controller.

So where does the out of the boost controller go?

Thought you got it after the conversation yesterday...:)


Maybe this will help:

http://www.montygwilliams.com/1982co...r_plumbing.jpg

fuct 04-16-2014 10:59 AM

^^ nice little diagram!

TopgunZ 04-16-2014 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance (Post 2783679)
Thought you got it after the conversation yesterday...:)


Maybe this will help:

http://www.montygwilliams.com/1982co...r_plumbing.jpg

I know! But then I read the hallman install pdf and it had a diagram that said to never hook up anything to the upper ports and they should always vent to atmosphere. So again I was confused. I didn't want to bother you again so I just left it for tonight.

Great diagram though. It just contradicts hallmans website.

TopgunZ 04-16-2014 11:39 AM

1 Attachment(s)
See, this is why I got really confused.

Joepro 04-17-2014 07:19 AM

not all wastegates are the same, your controller needs a "pressure" reading from the system, and the tial wastegates use the top port to the controller (which is usually vented, it would need to be vented for the wastegate to work "as designed" on the spring alone) however, using the controller, you are tricking the wastegate spring to see less pressure, when in reality the IM is seeing higher pressure. I am still asleep so I hope that all made sense, at lease that is how I understand it, im still new to the boost game.

jwick 04-17-2014 10:27 PM

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/18/esaresyb.jpg

Dumb question but these two red and black wires for the exa pump relay harness are supposed to be cut and spliced to the red and black wire from the exa pump itself?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

09nismo498 04-17-2014 10:29 PM

that is correct

jwick 04-17-2014 10:32 PM

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/18/5e9epuby.jpg

This is what your pump wire looked like directly from exa?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

09nismo498 04-18-2014 08:15 AM

Yup. I soldered mine together and used heat shrink tape

Boosted Performance 04-18-2014 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick (Post 2785315)
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/18/esaresyb.jpg

Dumb question but these two red and black wires for the exa pump relay harness are supposed to be cut and spliced to the red and black wire from the exa pump itself?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

That is correct. The pump manufacturer recently changed the way these pumps are shipped. The new harnesses now come from me with crimp connectors.

jwick 04-18-2014 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 09nismo498 (Post 2785892)
Yup. I soldered mine together and used heat shrink tape

Exactly what I plan to do to but always good to confirm. Thanks

jwick 04-18-2014 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance (Post 2785894)
That is correct. The pump manufacturer recently changed the way these pumps are shipped. The new harnesses now come from me with crimp connectors.

Thanks Sasha

zguynate 04-18-2014 10:06 AM

Getting my tune tomorrow! Excited is an understatement. Ill let you guys know how it goes!

Btw Sashas kit with the AAM 350z single exhaust sounds phenomenal. It took a little bit of modification to part of the exhaust but its awesome!

jwick 04-18-2014 04:54 PM

So ready for pump relay. Just to make sure I'm cutting the pink wire that's in the harness that plugs into top of the tank cover, not anything in the actual pump enclosure?

Joepro 04-18-2014 05:05 PM

Yes like my crappy diagram. Essentially the car side will trigger the relay then the 12v relay wire will power thy pump.

jwick 04-18-2014 05:06 PM

Thanks. That helps a lot.

Joepro 04-18-2014 05:11 PM

Worse part of the build for me(not the wiring) but the pump I just did not like doing it!

jwick 04-18-2014 05:24 PM

Pump sucked but its done. In fact the entire kit is installed and now all we are doing is electrical. Should fire up tomorrow

Joepro 04-18-2014 05:30 PM

Do it. Do it now!

jlo370z 04-18-2014 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joepro (Post 2786468)
Yes like my crappy diagram. Essentially the car side will trigger the relay then the 12v relay wire will power thy pump.

Dude that diagram was spot on, so it looked like a 3rd grader got a hold of ms paint, its perfect :tup:

jlo370z 04-18-2014 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick (Post 2786483)
Pump sucked but its done. In fact the entire kit is installed and now all we are doing is electrical. Should fire up tomorrow


theres no tomorrow in today, get r done!!:driving:

jwick 04-18-2014 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jlo370z (Post 2786547)
theres no tomorrow in today, get r done!!:driving:

Working towards it but still fighting gauge wiring and routing

jlo370z 04-18-2014 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick (Post 2786586)
Working towards it but still fighting gauge wiring and routing


That's why I paid for that


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

jwick 04-18-2014 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jlo370z (Post 2786588)
That's why I paid for that


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've done everything

Cell 04-18-2014 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick (Post 2786586)
Working towards it but still fighting gauge wiring and routing

I bought a lot of extra wires and shrink tubes for that.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk 4

jwick 04-18-2014 07:34 PM

Yuo. We're cutting things to fit and doing it right

09nismo498 04-18-2014 10:26 PM

I'm still working on my gauges as well. Thats why I haven't fired mine up yet, I hate electrical work... so time consuming.

jwick 04-18-2014 10:35 PM

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/19/jy6yjybu.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/19/e9ejavy2.jpg

Just about wrapped up. This baby is going to be alive soon!

TopgunZ 04-20-2014 10:07 AM

Anybody know of a site that sells single ID1000s?? I need to order one asap but I can only find them in sets!

jwick 04-20-2014 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ (Post 2788252)
Anybody know of a site that sells single ID1000s?? I need to order one asap but I can only find them in sets!

Call Phunk and see if he can help you out. I know that's where Sasha picks up the fuel components.

http://shop.cj-motorsports.com/

m3chhawk 04-20-2014 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ (Post 2788252)
Anybody know of a site that sells single ID1000s?? I need to order one asap but I can only find them in sets!

Pretty sure they are blueprinted to each other as a matching set.

TopgunZ 04-20-2014 02:28 PM

So if you have a stuck injector you have to pay $700 for a set? Ouch. Ill try Charles.

Anyway, if anyone waiting to see the results of my E85 tune it didn't happen yesterday. My full open injector has me stalled till I can find one.

BlkNismo 04-20-2014 03:45 PM

I have not been following this thread recently, when is the next batch available?

m3chhawk 04-20-2014 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ (Post 2788415)
So if you have a stuck injector you have to pay $700 for a set? Ouch. Ill try Charles.

Anyway, if anyone waiting to see the results of my E85 tune it didn't happen yesterday. My full open injector has me stalled till I can find one.

You may just have to send all six to ID. They will correct/replace the failed one and send them all back, matching.

zguynate 04-20-2014 05:13 PM

Well dyno day went pretty good yesterday. I ended up getting 510hp and 430tq on 10psi. My injectors are 650cc, so they are barely up to the task. Overall im very happy and impressed with the performance of this kit! It sounds phenomenal! Words cant describe!

Once again kudos to Sasha for an outstanding product!

GaleForce 04-20-2014 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dragonbreath (Post 2788509)
Well dyno day went pretty good yesterday. I ended up getting 510hp and 430tq on 10psi. My injectors are 650cc, so they are barely up to the task. Overall im very happy and impressed with the performance of this kit! It sounds phenomenal! Words cant describe!

Once again kudos to Sasha for an outstanding product!

Congratulations! :tup:

jwick 04-20-2014 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dragonbreath (Post 2788509)
Well dyno day went pretty good yesterday. I ended up getting 510hp and 430tq on 10psi. My injectors are 650cc, so they are barely up to the task. Overall im very happy and impressed with the performance of this kit! It sounds phenomenal! Words cant describe!

Once again kudos to Sasha for an outstanding product!

Awesome. Mine turned out pretty quiet which I don't mind cuz it allows me to hear the BOV and turbo. Music to my ears.

m3chhawk 04-21-2014 07:55 PM

I need tuning advice...

Short story: I'm in Kansas City, anyone have a tuner recommendation within 500 miles?

Long story:
( Click to show/hide )
I told myself I would give it a week before writing this up to let the emotion die down, so here it is...

About a month ago I called an UpRev certified tuner and scheduled my tuning appointment. This shop is about 250 miles from home but had installed and tuned a Boosted Performance turbo kit using the same EBC as mine (HKS EVC-S). On the phone they immediately remembered the car, the kit, and had nothing but good things to say. Scheduled the tune for about 3 weeks out. I asked for a ball park price with the understanding that it would merely be an estimate. Received an answer of $500-$600. Was planning on $750 so this seemed fair and didn't raise any flags. I asked if I should be there by 8a and expect to spend a full day. To which both questions were answered with yes.

The day of the tuning appointment arrives and it's snowing and raining (which I waited over 2 months trying to avoid) but I leave the house at 4:30a anyway. Arrive at the tuning appointment and meet the tuner (who also happens to be the business owner and the same person I spoke to on the phone). I tell him I'm here for the tuning appointment, he looks at his books, recognizes my name, and asks if its an UpRev 370Z appointment. I reply yes and he asks, just intake and exhaust? I reply with no, and give the same description, so-and-so's car, you did the install and tune, yada yada. He asks about the tune on the car. I tell him there is a base map and it's locked. The other BP car they had done had a very conservative tune (460HP) at the customers request and I stated this would be a good starting point and that I would be happy with anything over 500 HP at 10-11 psi, but would leave the end product to his comfort levels. One of the other guys in shop scoffed at these numbers saying "dynos are heartbreakers" and "that won't happen without a built motor and race fuel".

We get the car pulled onto the dyno and they spend the next ~1.5 hours tying the car down. The entire time the shop owner complained about how low the car was and that's why it was taking so long. I told him to take his time, I wasn't in a hurry, and appreciated him taking the extra effort. Once tied down, 30 minutes or so was spent trying to fix a loose wire on the wideband for the dyno. It was obvious they knew about this ahead of time. No avail. Wasn't too concerned as I had one in the car that could be monitored during pulls.

Finally, around 10:30a we take a pull on the base map. Car makes 448HP and 405 ft.lbs at an AFR of 10.5 at 8.5 psi. This is on the 7.25 psi wastegate springs with EBC off, so I'm guessing Tial has some calibration issues. This is what peak recall on my boost gauge and EBC has been reading since day 1 so no real concerns, just worth mentioning.
Base map results:
( Click to show/hide )
The car is beast, there is a full fuel point and 3 PSI to play with. Should have no trouble hitting 500+ HP.

So now he opens the map on his computer and tells me it is password protected and asks for the password. I explain again that it is locked and we need to start from his base map. He throws a fit about this so I try calling R/T on a long shot that they will give me the password. Whomever I talked to on the phone was very understanding and sympathetic, but would not release the map. I know the reasons they won't and fully respect them and their justification. I was merely calling in an attempt to appease the tuner.

At this point, I learn that the gentleman that tuned the other BP car was the resident UpRev expert and has since passed in a motorcycle accident. It then becomes very evident that while extremely knowledgeable about tuning in general, my tuner has limited experience with, and actually hates, UpRev. So we pull up "the back to stock" map against the other BP tune he has and compare each of the parameters side by side to see what exactly was tuned on the other car. We copy everything over to a map with my ECU model (it was different than the other car so we couldn't just load the other map).

After copying the map over, he attempts to flash my car and gets an error message that stumps him. Sooo he calls UpRev and they don't even know what he is talking about and say they will call him back. I offer the suggestion of returning to stock using my laptop and then he could try. This works. So we are ready to make a pull with his base map. The car spits and sputters at sub 9 AFR, wont rev out, and runs like ****. He stops and proceeds to tell me that he is going to have to build a map from scratch. This will be VERY expensive. And that if we are going down that route I might as well get a hotel room. He has also never even seen this EBC so once we get the car tuned at wastegate pressure, its another ball game.

At this point (~2p), for a variety of reasons, I tell him to take the car off the dyno and I will just cut my losses. Soooo in the end, I'm out $100 in fuel, a day of vacation, 500 miles on my car, a 6 hour detail down the drain, and $450 of "tuning" time lost.

Needless to say, I'm not thrilled. But I'm also a bit stuck. There is a local UpRev tuner in KC. I've heard good things. I've heard bad things. They are great with Subi's and Honda's, but I have only heard of one testimonial on UpRev (albeit it was a 370Z that made 326 HP with intake, exhaust, and tps). My plan is to talk to them personally and see how comfortable they are with UpRev and the car setup then go from there. They were my original option, but I figured using someone more familiar with the kit, with a base map, would be better......

My hesitation now is that if the tuner doesn't deal with UpRev often, I'm setting myself up for failure. I'm 1,600 miles from R/T and 2,000 miles from Specialty Z. And while neither option is off the table, it would be ~$1,500 to ship the car to either and a ton of mileage/wear to drive.

I'm open to any and all suggestions...


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