I looked at Specialty Z but couldn't justify the additional $400 since I'm not going for rediculous power levels. If in the future I decide to build a block and go for high numbers a new clutch will be a drop in the bucket.

I'm going with the Z1 Full Face setup and ZSpeed CSC.

I don't drive my car very hard but noticed clutch slippage right out of the shoot. That said for my driving habits it almost never slips. On the dyno by the third pull we had horrible power loss due to the clutch getting glazed. She still pulls hard every once in a while though when I need her too.

With that said I would recommend doing a clutch install right away to fully enjoy the extra power. I'm all in with riding it till it breaks at this point but it isn't as much fun.

FMIC's and Exa pumps on the way out to all those who have bought a kit (don't have tracking numbers yet) Everything should be arriving this week though.
On a side note (and this is not in the manual), each pump will arrive with one of these:

150µ Screen Filter


This will go on the oil return pump "IN" port. It is there to prevent any potential debris from getting in to the pump, and causing the gears to bind up.

This is one of those one in a million “in case it happens” safety things. If the turbo for some reason happens to lose a piece of the bearing (extremely rare case), there is no way for it to get to the pump, therefore there is no way it could ever get to the engine. This is a new addition to the Exa pump line of products, and if it by any chance improves the entire system, I will send it out with the kit.

This could happen with any turbo, however, when you use a pump you can use this strainer as the system relies on the pump to take the oil back to the oil pan and not gravity.

Your too damn good to us!

Thinking of going with the AEM failsafe gauge, anyone know how to wire in a rev limiter or limp mode into this gauge, did some searching came up empty...I know you use the blue wire from the gauge.

No clue. I'm going to run innovate for AFR and then a multi-gauge for the rest of my monitoring.

Sasha, does your kit basically replace everything all the way back to the stock muffler section? I would like to retain the stock exhaust (mufflers) as changing it out only nets 4hp.

R.K.

^:icon14: 4hp :confused: not sure if serious or just ... :icon14:

Are you implying that it makes more power with just the mufflers replaced with say an HKS exhaust? I'm not talking about replacing from the manifolds back. Just the muffler section.

The stillen exhaust nets you 18rwhp for a full exhaust.:

http://www.stillen.com/product/exhau...dd4db7onron0e5

Maybe 4hp is overstating it??

R.K.

Please refer too page 1 through 48

Sent with TapAhoe

It replaces everything back to the end of the y pipe. You can still use the rear portion of the stock exhaust if you'd like.

An exhaust is going to make more power on a turbo'd car than it will on a NA. You will have better flow with an aftermarket exhaust, which is better for turbo power to a certain extent.

I am rather confident that the OEM exhaust past the Y-pipe will net 500whp with this kit. The rear muffler on these cars flows rather well to be honest. There is a guy with a G35 that is fully built making 800whp using the rear muffler from a 370Z. It is important to note that he did run dual 3" pipes in to the OEM muffler, and not the OEM 2.125" dual pipes.

Parts started showing up today!

How'd you get parts before me?! Not that it matters, 15 cm of snow comin tonight... Why do I live here?!

:gtfo2:

jk! after next week were supposed to get into the 50s so I will bring the car to work to start the disassembly/NA part out.