Which clamp? The one on the compressor housing?

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/13/uzaha4yg.jpg

This is what I got

Yeah this is the only 2" t-bolt in the kit

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I have my clamp furth down to the left toward the housing and was able to slip a deep socket on it, that is one coupler there you do not want to leak.

i did this too. only issue i am having is the 45 degree coupler next to the oil filter block off plate. anyone else having issues with clearance on this coupler? the coupler is so close on both sides, i can't get the clamp on it.

That was the source of most of my frustration lol. Between the sandwich plate and the motor mount, I thought I was never going to get that on there.

That was a pain too. First time I did it in didn't test fit the sway bar and painfully realize that it was too low and had to start over from scratch. It's definitely a lot of trial and error

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This will make things A LOT easier in the future:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps473637e9.jpg

And yes, that T-bolt is a bit tough to get at. The clamp has to be at the right place, so that a 11mm (7/16) deep socket (1/4" drive) will fit in there from the wheel well.

Can't wait to see these finished builds...

Mine is very tight there. I think my coupler is right against the oil block off plate. I didn't have an issue with the clamp though.

Interesting...

With that new setup.... It would work with rhd wouldn't it....

Does anyone know if the BP kit will fit around the new Z1 CSC eliminator?

I've been looking at both the BP install manual and the Z1 CSC manual and having trouble determining from the provided images.

Hmm, seeing this picture and how much space you managed to gain I think that it might work on 7AT :eek:

I doubt it. If the turbo is in the same place, which it appears to be from that picture, there just wouldn't be enough room to mount the turbo around an AT.

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I'm leaning toward no. I took a bunch of pictures during the hot side install yesterday. I'll dig through them today and see if I have any good pics showing that location. Sasha has done a really good job of tuckong everything up as close to the car as possible. You can barely get your finger between the crossover pipe and the tranny.

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http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/u2edere4.jpg

So that's where we left it last night. Not exactly how I wanted it but since I'll only be running 9-10 lbs it should be good enough. I'll adjust things next time I drop the turbo.

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Sasha is that crossover piping larger OD than the current design?

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Cool, I guess I'll be going the Zspeed route. Good luck with finishing up your build!

Finger? Mines up against it. And what did you guys do with the yellow wire off the scavage pump wiring?

If I recall properly, nothing, but I haven't got there yet

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So if it's in the harness, what kind of power is it seeing? It would be awesome if it has ignition power only for some gauge hookups!

Hey Jwick, hows your build coming?

Good. Started my build thread in the gallery. Check it out. I can for a fact say this kit fits a G37 (with a few minor mods). The only thing we have remaining is fuel system (pump, spark plugs and injectors), intakes, manifild tap, vacuum line plumbing and gauge installs.

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Sasha got some good feedback both on the manual and what it takes to get it installed on a G37. I'm going to wait until the entire process is compelte and I will send you an email.

Mine is resting on the trans as well. I haven't started it yet, but I'm really hoping it doesn't rattle or cause another problem. If it does, I'm not really sure what to do, because theres no way to adjust it any lower, I already tried twice.

Where is it hitting? I don't recall mine is anywhere but I'll double check it Thursday when I get back at it.

It's hitting on a small piece of the transmission housing that sticks out. I thought about grinding it down, but it looks like it may be where a shift fork rod sits or something. I don't have a picture at the moment or I would show you. its right on the bottom of the transmission you can't miss it.

Mine did that too. Once you get everything bolted up, the weight of everything brings it down. Not touching anymore.

my kit is completely installed, and it didn't move at all. i tried everything, but it still rubs the trans. its pushing against the trans, so I'm hoping there is no rattle or anything...

Thats exactly where im against. I also havent fired it up yet but hope the same.

I tried my best to get a piece of rubber hose inbetween it but theres no way.

The flex coupler could very well loosen up and clearance everything once it heat cycles a few times

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The yellow wire is live when the car is off, so it should be left alone.


Thank you. I appreciate the time you have taken to let me know how the install went...I will have a look at your build thread as well shortly.

This is odd, and I am surprised to hear it. I really do my best with the manifolds to make sure they all fit in the jig and are just like the first one I made. They are welded in 4 stages just so that this doesn't happen. I am starting to think that there is a slight discrepancy with the headers...I have had a Z on my lift for the past three days, and tried a couple of the manifolds that were built on the jigs just to make sure everything is good...and the clearance was great. There was at least a quarter of an inch clearance between the pipes and the transmission.

If you guys are having issues, I am always just a PM away, and would be more than happy to help. I can cover the shipping and do the adjustment on these manifolds if you guys wish...that is no problem at all. Just let me know. I would ship it back within two days.

Sasha , just for my own sanity that I got the oil lines routed properly. The top port (when installed) of the enginer block adapter is the return (pg. 28), correct?

That is correct.

Awesome, then I got it right. I figured it was that way but always like confirmation. The order doesn't really matter much without the thermostat adapter but since I have four lines instead of three just wanted to check.

If we had to un-zip tie all those oil lines again to reroute them I was going to throw a wrench at you.

Just make it an AN one. They aren't as heavy.

You can't get a decent spiral on an aluminum wrench. It would be like trying to bean someone with a wiffle ball.

Not to mention, it wouldn't be that bad since it would just be swapping the two lines at the block adapter. I don't even think that would require cutting zip ties.

Yeah, those wouldn't be too bad. If we have to reroute the turbo oil lines I may eat a bullet.

I was about there when I realized the drain line to the pump was in the wrong position. Thank God I was able to squeeze it back thru and reroute under the charge pipe cuz no way it sliding between the turbo and the sub-frame.