I called head of time and paid with a CC. I'm pulling numbers from my call history so I cannot be absolutely sure this number is correct (866-493-7140, option 2), if that's not correct call UPS customer service. You need your tracking number.

Dumb question...where does the yellow wire on the pump harness go?

Nowhere, it stays as is (insulated), as it is live when the vehicle is off.

Good to know...so far so good! Injectors and plugs done today..I have the entire day Monday to work.

Alright, cool. Im going to call them first thing in the morning to pay it over the phone. I wont be at the place its being shipped to so I dont want there to be any hiccups. Thanks!

On another note, I as was thinking earlier I would like to fab a front crash bar like the vsr kit, what type of material or tube should I use? Anyone have any ideas? I am going to take a look at the OE one tomorrow and see if there is any way shape or form of modifying it as well to fit in some fashion, most likely not, but I will spend a little brain power on it anyway!

Might be a dumb questions but google isn't seeming to come up with anything useful. I'm wrapping the piping between header and turbo flange.

Should wrap the flex coupler or leave it unwrapped?

Searched up images instead.

http://www.powerlabs.org/images/headers3_small.jpg

Found that for a subaru. Not sure if it is a good idea considering it is the part that bends which can loosen up the wrap.

You should be fine either way.

Anybody ran a turbo blanket on this? Or does it degrade too quickly from seeing the elements?

I don't know if anybody has, and I don't know if moisture would deteriorate those things at all. The heat from turbo would dry them off in a hurry even if they did get wet.

I always felt like those things would trap a lot of heat after the car has been turned off. Don't know if there would be negative impact on anything since there is no oil flowing through the turbo...probably all in my head.

They also work well at keeping engine bay temperatures down, but in this case, it is not necessary.

I will be running a blanket.

To clarify I'm going crazy on heat management. My Summit Racing order for header wrap, tubro blanket, inferno heat shield, thermo-tec, etc. was $600 on it's own. I've just heard way to many 'I popped my motor' horror stories from a melted WG hose or similar. I'm wrapping all piping until past the tranny, the turbo, all wires, all hoses and using the inferno on any items within line of site of the hot piping to do the best I can to prevent a heat related failure. I'm doing none of the above because I think it will help any in performance.

Although that will offer security and could never be a "bad" thing. I don't think the BP kit has ever had an incident of any heat related melting of anything.

Can you verify this Sasha?

I have a turbo blanket from my Powerlab top mount that I was thinking of using and I will be wrapping my x-over pipe for sure and probably down pipe.

Sasha told me that he has not had any reported heat related issues. However I know of some low mount turbo setups that have had heat releated issues. O&G roasted a WG line leading to his bent rod and ultimate motor build. In his case he wrapped everything that was touching but not everything in line of sight.

I'm more worried about heat build up while on the dyno for tunning. We should get good enough airflow on the road to keep things cool. All that being said I'm an engineer, we double up on everything!

Im also an Engineer and its true...we do double up on everything. Which is why I twin-charged my 350z..lol.. And with that I barely skimped by on having ridiculous amounts of failures. When I uninstalled both kits there were heat issues all over the place. Was only a matter of time. I got lucky and had the wastegate break off the crossover pipe which led me to the burnt o2 sensor wire which led me to the uninstall of everything.

You picking up a BP kit?

No issues should ever come up if the instructions are followed. There is plenty of room to keep everything plenty far enough from anything that will get hot.

Your PL turbo blanket will be waaaaaay too small for this turbine housing. You need a large T4 blanket.

I would also recommend a boost gauge with peak warning.

:iagree:

I would go a couple steps further and add Oil Temp(us G guys didn't get one from the factory)/Oil Pressure/AFR

Yulp I have warnings on oil temp, pressure, and boost.

No I haven't. I had the Powerlab kit with the Stillen kit on the 350.


@ Sasha.. The blanket I had said it can be used for T3 or T4. Not sure how that translates but it was a bit saggy on the T3 and the T4 might be a tight fit.

I cant remember where this is addressed in the numerous threads on the BP kit but talking about all these heat issues makes me wonder. Have you ever looked into designing a heat shield as an option to the kit? Or would this truly not add any value in heat dissipation from the transmission?

I can speak from experience as I have both the turbo and blanket in hand. I seriously doubt the bag you are referring to will work. I bought the DEI turbo blanket for a T4 frame and because this turbo is a twin scroll, the bag does not cover the entire inlet side. It's close like probably 95ish percent but definitely not a complete cover.

That sounds about right. The tangential T4 housings are large, but the twin scroll is very large.

Big boy power needs big boy turbine.

You aren't lying. Here's a pic I took the other day for a size reference.

:iagree:

If you're following the excellent instruction manual you will find the waste gate hoses (any of the kits additional hoses for that matter) don't go anywhere near the hot stuff. That is unless you are making an effort to test the temperature rating of the silicone hoses by wire tying them to the hot pipes. If that's the case... I say good luck to you. :p

Sasha sent you a pm are you availabke atn to speak to you over the phone?

I finished wrapping everything this evening. I tried to test fit a waste gate to the piping and I could not get clamps far enough closed to slide the bolt through. I double checked and there is no interference from the wrap. I think (did not try) I could get them on maybe if I used a pair of channel locks but it seemed wrong to take that much effort.

Are they supposed to require that level of force to get the clamps around the flanges? It doesn't seem like it considering the instructions say I have to clock them prior to tightening the clamps. There is no way to rotate the WG once the flange is tight and you still can't get the bolt through.

Are the v bands for the bov and gates the same size? Maybe you are doing that.... Just a thought.

I didn't get to the BOV as I've not messed with any IC piping. The WG comes with two different clamps in the box. One (I'll call the inlet) attaches to the pipe leading to the turbo, the second (outlet) attached to the recirulated WG piping. I tried both WGs which leads me to believe its not a manufacturer error since both are the same. It is so tight that there is no way to rotate it and I had to pry the clamp back apart with a pair of needle nose just to get the clamps off.

Maybe someone that has done this can chime in or Sasha will tomorrow.

I clamped that sucker together with a channel lock. LOL It was tight for me too. That's the way I like it.

You must be my brotha from a anotha motha, cuz I like the sh!t tight too.

Thanks man. I was just kind of scared to need to apply that much force.

No seriously though, just clamp it tight enough so you can get the screw in. Just make sure you align things up first then put the screw in.

That is a bit odd. It is possible that the machining of the flanges or clamps is a bit off, and they are tight for that reason. I have seen it a couple of times where there is bit of a burr on the outside edge of the flange, and it can cause a very tight fit of the clamp.

It was decently tight for me. I ended up using a channel lock to get the screw in. wondering if heat would loosen them up.

Sounds like it might be time for a check up this summer.

Thinking about buying this kit. From the instructions its looks as though it uses the stock headers... Which is great because those are a pain in the *** to take off. Only problem is I installed momentum DE headers. Anyway I can get the kit fabricated with the DE fittings?

Also, is the car anymore unsafe without the crash bar? Or is that mainly to protect the engine and engine bay componenets?

Sasha can send you the kit with DE flanges unwelded that you can have welded in locally as he doesn't have a jig for that setup.

It's not like you lose the crash bar you just replaced it with a $500 FMIC

Gotcha! Thanks for the info

Yeah, you didn't lose the crash bar, you just made it much more expensive. :rofl2:

You're welcome. And let me highly recommend pulling the trigger on this kit. The quality is fantastic and Sasha's customer service is second to none.

Honestly its a no brainer... The kit is priced right, and more user friendly to install. Kinda interested to see how the momentum headers will play with the kit.

Is there anything else I would need to get to support this kit? Besides a tune of course