I agree with what Gale said on the stage 3 with OEM power. It's more firm but has a much better feel to it. Mine had a little bit of chatter when it was breaking in, but that is gone now.

I also had the same CMC problems. Dealer installed my clutch and ended up covering the replacement CMC under warranty. There is also a service bulletin out for our car that recommends upgrading to GTR brake fluid for the clutch. So if you have a good relationship with your dealer, there's a chance they will cover your fluid and CMC.

To my understanding, the CMC issues arise when bleeding from empty. A few people at Nissan even referred to them as one - time - use.

When Nissan changed out my CSC they reused my CMC. I havent had any problems yet and that was around 10k miles ago. When I change my clutch out for this kit, I will replace the CMC this time though for a little peace of mind.

Nope. I'm the guinea pig for a G. I've gone through the entire installation manual with the car on the lift. My buddy also has a TT Z so I had it there for comparison. I'm obviously confident enough it will work that I dropped the $8k. Now that being said, there might be a few minor things to massage. But until I get it and complete the install we won't know.

Yeah, the CMC is cheap and easy to install. May as well do it at the same time as a clutch for peace of mind.

Knock on wood but when the dealer replaced the CSC, they didn't touch the CMC and it's been running strong (now 42k). Since they seem to be hit or miss I'm worried to change it cause I might end up with a bad one. Since it's pretty easy to handle I'll probably chance it and just swap it out myself if it gives me an issue.

I did mine during my install. I have a Specialty Z 6-puck clutch with Tilton Race CSC, 13lbs flywheel, 31lbs total. It's awesome. The pedal actually felt lighter with the Tilton CSC compared to the the stock one.

Shattering isn't too bad but it is a bit of a PITA in a parking lot. The low weight makes it a bit boggy at very low RPM. You definitely have to engage at a higher RPM than stock (it IS a puck type clutch after all). SRM still works but seems to overshoot and hunt for the right RPM a bit when downshifting. Idle is a bit rough and the car almost sounds like an old muscle car with cams. Higher Idle will easily fix that.

That being said, I love this clutch/flywheel combo.

great info everyone, cant wait to get started!

Today I had a chance to build the jig so I can fabricate the downpipes for you guys that are going with OEM like exhausts:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps83aebd60.jpg


I am just waiting for Vibrant turbo flex couplers for the wastegates...hope to see those next week so all the OEM down pipes can be finished. I have 6 downpipes for the F.I exhaust sytem but some of you opted for the OEM downpipes.

I also just finished all the relay kits for the fuel pumps, so that is another thing out of the way. Next week will be packaging of 5 kits, and getting everything ready for shipping.

Ahh, brave man!! It would be so bad AZZ is it works!! would be awesome to see this kit next to and compared to chucks?

Considering that Charles and I use the same tuner, who limits torque to 400 ft-lbs, I fully expect both kits to be very close to each other. I'm handing him the car and my manual boost controller and telling him give me a torque curve like a table top around 400wft-lbs and hp will fall out where it does.

Charles' boost threshold will likely be 3-500 rpms lower and that's about it. The really fun things is within the next couple of months we'll know.

I can't help but imagine your car rooling around town like a sexy exspensive vacuum cleaner (in a very good way). Your going to be cleaning our streets up of all the dirt and racers.

Sasha even your jigs are a thing of beauty. I need to enroll in the Sasha school of welding and fabrication.

So this new down pipe...would it fit on a stillen CBE? It is an OEM type 3" y pipe but. I'm not sure if it is in the exact same position.

This is solely my experience on my G. If you have a first generation Stillen CBE with an actual flange between the y-pipe and mid-pipe, then it will fit with this setup. If you buy a Stillen CBE now it's a different but I cannot say how cuz I've never seen one in person.

A couple of weeks ago I took my factory y-pipe down from the attic and held it up to the Stillen y-pipe installed on my G and all three flanges of the Stillen y-pipe are in the same location as the factory y-pipe. I also took my y-pipe over to a Z owners house and laid the G and Z factory y-pipes on top of each other and they are identical.

All that being said I feel pretty confident that this is going to bolt up to my G with no issues. I would imagine that the first generation of the Stillen CBE y-pipe were the same for both the Z and the G but cannot confirm that. Maybe a call to Stillen can straighten that out.

Just to give you all an update on this round of kits....



For starters, I want to thank the community for the continuing support on this forums, and a special thanks to all of those who bought the Boosted Performance twin scroll turbo kits. It is nice to see all 6 of the kits I had in stock sell in only 3 weeks (3 weeks after the first one sold)...it tells me that I am doing something right.


Everything is ready to ship on my end. I am just waiting for the proper fuel injector adapters. The ones my (new) supplier had sent were the wrong ones (EV6 to EV14). The turbos are arriving from Precision, as are all the Tial parts, so you guys will start seeing packages arriving in the next week or so. The Exa pumps will all ship out next week, as well as the FMIC's.


I am sure there will be a few build threads poping up in the very near future.


Once everything is out the door I hope to build a couple more kits to have in stock, as thre are a few of you asking about the next round of kits, so stay tuned for that.

So, keep the PM's coming, I always like to know how many of you are interested in this kit, as it helps me when ordering fabrication components.

I would have bought one this year in the winter, but baby boy was born 8 weeks ago so momma is/has not been working but next off season 100% :tup:

Always wanted a BP kit after all the great reviews and I have seen GaleForces car in person so I know this is the one to get! :tiphat:

Can't wait!

I'm still saving up! Tax return will get me there faster :)

Im more excited than that guy at the Nets game....

(Family Guy cutaway style)

Cant wait , so excited for this season to get here!

Me too...hopefully I'll be able to start this build before the end of the month and before I go stir crazy from this winter.

Well I was hoping my stock clutch would last a little while since I only had 13k on it but it doesn't look like that's the case. We had temperatures up in the 60s yesterday so I was able to get a little more traction than usual. Felt like the clutch was slipping a little in 3rd and 4th gear. Time to contact specialty Z. I was hoping to do the install myself this summer after I get my lift installed. might try to limp it along until then. It still pulls hard. Just starts slipping when going wot in the higher gears.

Not shocked. Well I am kind of shocked you made it off the dyno with the stock clutch. With a SC you can probably limp the stock clutch for a while but instant torque with a turbo set up is hard on the stock clutch?

So you going with the Max Street Setup?

Well I had heard from several turbo guys that their stock clutch lasted a good while. I think I'm making a lot more torque than they were though. So yeah, I'm not shocked either but I was hoping to get a few thousand miles out of it. Not sure what I'll go with yet. Just shot Seb a PM. I'll see what he recommends and do a bit more reading.

I'm guessing the guys who say their OEM clutch lasted with a turbo have never had the car tuned on a dyno. On the street you'll just break the tires loose and unload the drivetrain.

I looked at Specialty Z but couldn't justify the additional $400 since I'm not going for rediculous power levels. If in the future I decide to build a block and go for high numbers a new clutch will be a drop in the bucket.

I'm going with the Z1 Full Face setup and ZSpeed CSC.

I don't drive my car very hard but noticed clutch slippage right out of the shoot. That said for my driving habits it almost never slips. On the dyno by the third pull we had horrible power loss due to the clutch getting glazed. She still pulls hard every once in a while though when I need her too.

With that said I would recommend doing a clutch install right away to fully enjoy the extra power. I'm all in with riding it till it breaks at this point but it isn't as much fun.

FMIC's and Exa pumps on the way out to all those who have bought a kit (don't have tracking numbers yet) Everything should be arriving this week though.
On a side note (and this is not in the manual), each pump will arrive with one of these:

150µ Screen Filter


This will go on the oil return pump "IN" port. It is there to prevent any potential debris from getting in to the pump, and causing the gears to bind up.

This is one of those one in a million “in case it happens” safety things. If the turbo for some reason happens to lose a piece of the bearing (extremely rare case), there is no way for it to get to the pump, therefore there is no way it could ever get to the engine. This is a new addition to the Exa pump line of products, and if it by any chance improves the entire system, I will send it out with the kit.

This could happen with any turbo, however, when you use a pump you can use this strainer as the system relies on the pump to take the oil back to the oil pan and not gravity.

Your too damn good to us!

Thinking of going with the AEM failsafe gauge, anyone know how to wire in a rev limiter or limp mode into this gauge, did some searching came up empty...I know you use the blue wire from the gauge.

No clue. I'm going to run innovate for AFR and then a multi-gauge for the rest of my monitoring.

Sasha, does your kit basically replace everything all the way back to the stock muffler section? I would like to retain the stock exhaust (mufflers) as changing it out only nets 4hp.

R.K.

^:icon14: 4hp :confused: not sure if serious or just ... :icon14:

Are you implying that it makes more power with just the mufflers replaced with say an HKS exhaust? I'm not talking about replacing from the manifolds back. Just the muffler section.

The stillen exhaust nets you 18rwhp for a full exhaust.:

http://www.stillen.com/product/exhau...dd4db7onron0e5

Maybe 4hp is overstating it??

R.K.

Please refer too page 1 through 48

Sent with TapAhoe

It replaces everything back to the end of the y pipe. You can still use the rear portion of the stock exhaust if you'd like.

An exhaust is going to make more power on a turbo'd car than it will on a NA. You will have better flow with an aftermarket exhaust, which is better for turbo power to a certain extent.

I am rather confident that the OEM exhaust past the Y-pipe will net 500whp with this kit. The rear muffler on these cars flows rather well to be honest. There is a guy with a G35 that is fully built making 800whp using the rear muffler from a 370Z. It is important to note that he did run dual 3" pipes in to the OEM muffler, and not the OEM 2.125" dual pipes.

Parts started showing up today!

How'd you get parts before me?! Not that it matters, 15 cm of snow comin tonight... Why do I live here?!

:gtfo2:

jk! after next week were supposed to get into the 50s so I will bring the car to work to start the disassembly/NA part out.