GTM Racelogic Traction control Review

BigT

I'm confused. So you're saying that this electronic device while raise the stall on the stock converter?

Mitco39

No, you set the artificial rev limiter to match your stall speed so you dont have to module it with your go pedal. Say your stall is 2500rpm, throw up say a 2800-3000 rev limiter and use your brakes to hold you back. Then you can go to WOT and as soon as you get moving the traction control will do the rest.

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GaleForce

that's how the no lift shift worked on the Supercharged Cobalt.

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BigT

Yea, thanks, I was referring to launch control. Not, traction control. How are you going to set your rev limit to 3000 when your stall limit is 2500?


Launch control is pointless with a stock stall and or stock tires. Traction control is good though, i guess. It should help ET's, but lower trap speeds.

diddy535

I'd buy!

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Mike@GTM

I stand corrected. I was thinking of the FR-S/BRZ version of flat foot shifting via Ecutek software that does precisely what I described. You are correct, the Racelogic doesn't have an input for a gearshift sensor to accomplish true flat-foot shifting (no clutch).

Mitco39

lol.

You want to be right at your stall speed (I goofed on my last post) so that you load up your drive train and nothing less. Try as you might to do it manually your RPM will fluctuate and not be smooth, not to mention you will spend more time looking at your RPM than watching the tree (assuming were on a drag strip). You want to push your car as hard as your brakes will allow, depending on the tightness and characteristics of the car (IE traction) this might be.

I dont know about your car, but a stock 370z will have no issues spinning the tires while getting ready to launch in 1st gear, you might want to check that out if your car cannot do that. Im sure everyone has done a brake stand at some point.

Where it really comes in handy is with the AWD cars, Then you can use all 4 tires to hold back the car and really load it up. Rearwheel your limited.

__________________
2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me
2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me
The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her
My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

BigT

You're making this out to be very complicated. I've had 2 evo's and a DSM. I know how launch control works.

What I still don't get is how this device is holding the car back? The stock converter is constantly holding the motor back if your feet are on the brakes. Not the launch control. The stock converter is what sets your RPM, nothing more, nothing less. Outside of throttle input. I say launch control does absolutely NOTHING for an automatic.

Also, how many of you have ever heard of a drag car using traction control? This really makes no sense. Get better tires if you are having problems.

This device is more directly related for a manual tranny when it comes to launching.

Nixlimited

It's not. It's just holding the revs at a set point despite the go-pedal being planted on the floor. In an AT car, you have to hold on the brakes to keep the car from moving forward and in an MT car you need to have the clutch pedal in to keep from moving forward. In the AT car you launch by letting off the brake. In the MT you launch by letting out the clutch pedal.

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future370zzz

In on group buy if possible.

elperuano

Gotta agree here. If ur havin traction problems then ur suspension n tires need to be looked at first.

While its a gear product, for that price I'll look into other areas before goin this route. I want to plant ALL my power to the ground. This device cuts power to the wheels to keep traction. I didnt get 540hp to not use it all.

Not knockin the product at all, personally for me would prolly be a last resort.

Z eliminator

Ive used mine at the track 1/4 mile. i tried everything and could not find how to use the launch control. Car lost 2 th's with traction control on , But it ran straight as an arrow.
never spun the tire's (305 35 18 M/T drag radials/
Now on a 7 AT if you try to hold the gas and brake the ECU kill the engine and it will drop rpm and run terrible off the line. If your lucky may be 1700 rpm with out your back wheels braking free on the stock converter, You have to pull the brake fuse. I have a Pro torque 3200 rpm stall converter and i hold the car at 2000 rpm you then mash the gas and let the brake pedal go on the start of the last yellow light. I have a video of this and the car moves at 3200 rpm. I have talked to Sam how to get it to work for i would love to launch at 5000 rpm. He is working on this for me and i hope that he finds a way to make it work. What setting did you set the slip for on the race logic for this . Ive tried ever setting and got really frustrated with it. I removed the race logic and the car ran a 12.50 vs a 12.70. I have not given up on it but it gets a little busy in the car after you leave the burn out box. My car also runs richer A/f when i run the race logic. Driving it on the street is way better than the factory TC. Do you also turn of the factory TC when you run the race logic? When the brake fuse is pulled the factory TC should not work,
im running 12.342 now with out it and i have no traction problems coming off the line 1.80 60 ft times but i do have line lock to heat up the back tire's
Well thats what i found how my car drives with it, Its great in the rain.
I also have 4.08 gears in the car.
If some body figures out how to make it work at the track please let me know
thanks

Z

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Dzel

^spoken like a pro!

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Z eliminator

a thought ? the GTR has launch control and it an automatic. Any body know how it works on there car.

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12.343 @114.14 . 4.5 stroker motor is now being built. Dec 1 2015.

Nixlimited

The GTR doesn't have an automatic transmission. It has a MT controlled by a computer.

__________________
Car Sold! Pleasure being a part of the Z community.
New ride: 2015 GT-R - 647 WHP / 641 WTQ (e85) & 543 WHP / 519 WTQ (91)