No lift as in not taking your foot off the gas during shifting?

How can launch control work on an A/T when their is a torque converter in the way? I think some people are a little confused. But, the traction control feature should be great for when you're actually moving.

Doesn't mater if there is a converter or not.

It just looks at a couple things:


1) Is there throttle input?
2) Are any of the wheels moving?

If the answer to 1 is YES but the answer to two is NO, boom, engage launch control. Hold revs at pre-determined point until those factors change, allow a prescribed amount of drive wheels vs non drive wheels slip factored with a user-determined ratio of desired slip, disengage once drive and non drive wheel speed are within the desired envelope.

It's as simple as that, though I am sure they use other factors for reliability and safety. (Like clutch or brake sensors etc)

Absolutely no reason this won't work on an ATX car.

Yes Sir.

:excited:

Different connection than what comes with the gtm kit? Sorry to thread jack btw just really interested.

Our system with the plug and play harness has launch control as standard and does not require any additional signals. If you want flat foot shifting, however, you will need to get our other version for drag racing that requires 4 ABS signals in addition to our plug and play harness.

drag racing version ?
what is that ?

Thanks for the system Sam I love having it, I feel its a must have at this power level.

Allow me to clarify that. The drag racing version is only necessary on manual transmission cars that want flat foot shifting. The 7AT already gives you that ability. ;)

Man this is a must have probably gonna have to wait a little while after boosting though.

Looks like it'd be a fun option for NA too!

I'm on 295's now and can barely keep it on the road with nothing done but test pipes.

Might be a dumb question, but whats flat foot shifting?

Flat foot shifting is keeping your right foot flat to the floorboard on the gas pedal while shifting without using the clutch.

The traction control system has the ability to cut power to the engine just enough to unload the dog gears in the transmission so you can engage the next gear instead of using the clutch to unload the dog gears.

I believe you are wrong. Flat foot shifting is not lifting your foot off the throttle but still using the clutch to switch gears just as you would. With the RLTC it kicks in a rev limiter that you set that is tripped when you press the clutch allowing you to hold the throttle at 100% and not bounce off the rev limiter.

Since you never let off the throttle you do not bleed off boost which according to RL can shave 0.10s off each shift.

I do this when I get on it now but would love to see what this system does in this area

I believe this is correct. Switchin gears without using clutch is power shifting. Something I've seen done but would never do to my own car.

Although quite expensive it seems it gets the job done with traction problems with this car and big power and having launch control would be great. Gonna have to get it down the road!

Group buy?

I'm confused. So you're saying that this electronic device while raise the stall on the stock converter?

No, you set the artificial rev limiter to match your stall speed so you dont have to module it with your go pedal. Say your stall is 2500rpm, throw up say a 2800-3000 rev limiter and use your brakes to hold you back. Then you can go to WOT and as soon as you get moving the traction control will do the rest.

:iagree: that's how the no lift shift worked on the Supercharged Cobalt. :tup:

Yea, thanks, I was referring to launch control. Not, traction control. How are you going to set your rev limit to 3000 when your stall limit is 2500?


Launch control is pointless with a stock stall and or stock tires. Traction control is good though, i guess. It should help ET's, but lower trap speeds.

I'd buy!

I stand corrected. I was thinking of the FR-S/BRZ version of flat foot shifting via Ecutek software that does precisely what I described. You are correct, the Racelogic doesn't have an input for a gearshift sensor to accomplish true flat-foot shifting (no clutch).

lol.

You want to be right at your stall speed (I goofed on my last post) so that you load up your drive train and nothing less. Try as you might to do it manually your RPM will fluctuate and not be smooth, not to mention you will spend more time looking at your RPM than watching the tree (assuming were on a drag strip). You want to push your car as hard as your brakes will allow, depending on the tightness and characteristics of the car (IE traction) this might be.

I dont know about your car, but a stock 370z will have no issues spinning the tires while getting ready to launch in 1st gear, you might want to check that out if your car cannot do that. Im sure everyone has done a brake stand at some point.

Where it really comes in handy is with the AWD cars, Then you can use all 4 tires to hold back the car and really load it up. Rearwheel your limited.

You're making this out to be very complicated. I've had 2 evo's and a DSM. I know how launch control works.

What I still don't get is how this device is holding the car back? The stock converter is constantly holding the motor back if your feet are on the brakes. Not the launch control. The stock converter is what sets your RPM, nothing more, nothing less. Outside of throttle input. I say launch control does absolutely NOTHING for an automatic.

Also, how many of you have ever heard of a drag car using traction control? This really makes no sense. Get better tires if you are having problems.

This device is more directly related for a manual tranny when it comes to launching.

It's not. It's just holding the revs at a set point despite the go-pedal being planted on the floor. In an AT car, you have to hold on the brakes to keep the car from moving forward and in an MT car you need to have the clutch pedal in to keep from moving forward. In the AT car you launch by letting off the brake. In the MT you launch by letting out the clutch pedal.

In on group buy if possible. :)

Gotta agree here. If ur havin traction problems then ur suspension n tires need to be looked at first.

While its a gear product, for that price I'll look into other areas before goin this route. I want to plant ALL my power to the ground. This device cuts power to the wheels to keep traction. I didnt get 540hp to not use it all.

Not knockin the product at all, personally for me would prolly be a last resort.

Ive used mine at the track 1/4 mile. i tried everything and could not find how to use the launch control. Car lost 2 th's with traction control on , But it ran straight as an arrow.
never spun the tire's (305 35 18 M/T drag radials/
Now on a 7 AT if you try to hold the gas and brake the ECU kill the engine and it will drop rpm and run terrible off the line. If your lucky may be 1700 rpm with out your back wheels braking free on the stock converter, You have to pull the brake fuse. I have a Pro torque 3200 rpm stall converter and i hold the car at 2000 rpm you then mash the gas and let the brake pedal go on the start of the last yellow light. I have a video of this and the car moves at 3200 rpm. I have talked to Sam how to get it to work for i would love to launch at 5000 rpm. He is working on this for me and i hope that he finds a way to make it work. What setting did you set the slip for on the race logic for this . Ive tried ever setting and got really frustrated with it. I removed the race logic and the car ran a 12.50 vs a 12.70. I have not given up on it but it gets a little busy in the car after you leave the burn out box. My car also runs richer A/f when i run the race logic. Driving it on the street is way better than the factory TC. Do you also turn of the factory TC when you run the race logic? When the brake fuse is pulled the factory TC should not work,
im running 12.342 now with out it and i have no traction problems coming off the line 1.80 60 ft times but i do have line lock to heat up the back tire's
Well thats what i found how my car drives with it, Its great in the rain.
I also have 4.08 gears in the car.
If some body figures out how to make it work at the track please let me know
thanks

Z

^spoken like a pro!

a thought ? the GTR has launch control and it an automatic. Any body know how it works on there car.

The GTR doesn't have an automatic transmission. It has a MT controlled by a computer.

Definitely on my to purchase list. I believe it would be great on road courses. Anyone disagree on that?

Your right when you say suspension and tires should be looked at first before the traction control system. But I must say that when it cuts powers it's not that bad ,also you have to remember you can fine to it for it to cut the perfect amount of power. This allows you to put the maximum amount of power to ground while still going forward trust me ts amazing. Also have a 2 step to built boost at the track is the icing on the cake for a turbo car . This are things that Uprev just can't do .


Racelogic Key features
1.The ability adjust 1% increments from 0%-25% allowing the driver to dial in the perfect setting for there car. Now there are many factor's that contribute to this tire's/suspension weather condition's. This can be done on the fly just by turning the knob

2. 2 Step launch control allows you to build boost of the line and adjust how much slippage you want.

With that being said you can still loose traction and get sideways if you set the system to allow to much wheel spin. I made this mistake when I first put the system on my car went out for a drive in 25 degree weather. Once I dialed it in I was able fly in the same conditions.

I also updated my first post with the key features .

GTR doesn't have a torque converter. It was two clutch packs of multiple discs. 1 set of clutches for gears 1/3/5 and other set for 2/4/6. It launches the same as a normal manual trans except the clutches are hydrauliclly operated and electronically controled vs having a man pedal. Consecutive gears are already pulled and ready and when it shifts, one clutch disengages and the other engages hence the super fast shifting.

I would suggest reading the info on Racelogics website as there is some really good stuff on there. You need to realize that when this system cuts power, we are talking thousandths of a second (1 injector pulse) at a time. The point of this is to keep your tires right on the cusp of slipping, which in theroy is also the point of maximum traction. Do I agree that tires and suspension should be looked at? Sure, but if you need a set of tires for every track condition this could easily be considered cheaper.

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I understand the concept of how this works, but my only real question is; Would this interfere with the Aquamist Direct-Port Methanol kit?

If the Aquamist kit reads off injector duty cycle and you have the traction control shutting injector pulses off, won't that clash with each other coming out of the hole? I would think you would get an uneven spray pattern going on.