how much is too much

luigi90210 · 04-29-2013, 04:31 AM

if you are DDing your car, i would go with a supercharger, whether its a stillen or GTM kit, a supercharger will allow you to keep a similar powerband to the stock car because boost is matching the revs unlike a turbo where you are N/A until your spool point then you get there, you get a sudden torque surge(but that is all relative to your build and what type of turbos you are using, smaller turbos=better spool time but less top end, while bigger turbos=longer spool times but better top end)

imo you could go with either the stillen supercharger kit or the GTM 1.5 supercharger kit and be happy, both make lots of power under the curve which is what you want in a street build

edub370 · 04-29-2013, 10:54 AM

mine s jsut a weekend car. i am getting the new gtm tt kit. and i'm confident that i can get by with a 25 row cooler and their larger capacity oil pan. now, on the other hand, if u go boosted and are constantly getting into boost while cruising around, u will see temps rise in a hurry. its all about how u drive

docaam · 04-29-2013, 11:03 AM

Got the kit today came with two 25 row oil coolers will install both on engine. Will order radiator and fan shroud then install

DIGItonium · 04-29-2013, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edub370

mine s jsut a weekend car. i am getting the new gtm tt kit. and i'm confident that i can get by with a 25 row cooler and their larger capacity oil pan. now, on the other hand, if u go boosted and are constantly getting into boost while cruising around, u will see temps rise in a hurry. its all about how u drive

I still recommend a larger oil cooler. It's a nice low 80s day, and my oil temp peaked at 210-215F from getting lunch. Your car will start cutting power, and you'll feel the throttle response drop. Even with my 34 row I can see the slightly slower boost build up in 2nd.

Mkai0 · 04-29-2013, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by docaam

Thats very encouraging

Are you on stock radiator if not which one? I was looking for an aftermarket radiator last year for my friend's G35 couldn't find anything (working on the Z made me forgot everything on these cars lol)

PRC people make great custom ones.

Yes, still using my stock radiator because it has been working well. I would suggest that you use the stock one and see how it works out for you.

DIGItonium · 04-29-2013, 02:32 PM

Thanks to one of the threads here regarding the coolant bleed cap, I'm going to get my coolant flushed again. My last tech didn't know about it after doing the heater core flush and only burped the system. I still hear bubbling in the core, and the car wants to overheat when ambient is at least 90F. When I picked it up in Houston, it can survive 100F+ temps without overheating.

docaam · 04-30-2013, 01:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mkai0

Yes, still using my stock radiator because it has been working well. I would suggest that you use the stock one and see how it works out for you.

Just dont want to risk anything with temp in range of 115 to 130 whole day long, specially on my way back driving everyday it will be 125-130.

Still evaluating the timeline either to install tune now or wait till september when it starts cooling a bit.

1slow370 · 04-30-2013, 05:18 AM

just remember blowing up and wearing out are two different things. have the motor compression or leakdown tested to so where it stands now if you are worried about the condition of it. barring a few cases i'm sure its fine but best to know before you do it. if it does come in on the low side you know a rebuild may be in your future.

theDreamer · 04-30-2013, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by docaam

Just dont want to risk anything with temp in range of 115 to 130 whole day long, specially on my way back driving everyday it will be 125-130.

Still evaluating the timeline either to install tune now or wait till september when it starts cooling a bit.

How much of a temp difference is it for your seasons?
If it is that big of a concern then you might consider running 2 tunes. One for the high heat and one for super cold days. In Texas we usually are in the 70+ area for all the year so I run one tune and had it done in 100 degree heat, but always curious what a colder 60 degree day dyno run & tune could produce.

roplusbee · 05-01-2013, 11:05 PM

It's funny that you mention 2 tunes. I was just going to comment on how my single 34 row OC handles the awesome TX heat, but now I want to comment on multiple tunes. I have found that my low boost tune suffers from increased heat soak as opposed to my high boost tune that seems to be the more preferred one of the 2 for me. I have a strange stumble on the transition to positive boost pressure differential on low and almost nonexistent on high. But I think I have a vac leak and O2 sensor issues as well (just an intuitive guess) that I will be hunting down @ UPREV late this week or early next week.

UNKNOWN_370 · 05-02-2013, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0

550WHP seems a bit high...
As a DD I'd go for around 450WHP

550 is very doable. 500 is the sweet spot though. 450whp is really low if spending that money..

edub370 · 05-02-2013, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UNKNOWN_370

550 is very doable. 500 is the sweet spot though. 450whp is really low if spending that money..

550 is pushing the limits on stock internals imo. for a dd that would be too much

UNKNOWN_370 · 05-02-2013, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edub370

550 is pushing the limits on stock internals imo. for a dd that would be too much

From what i gathered 600 is pushing the stock internals on the motor. that why i said 500 is the sweetspot as well. 550 is doable but 500 is safest without being so low in the power range.

04-29-2013, 04:31 AM	#31 (permalink)
luigi90210 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: San Diego CA Posts: 1,103 Drives: Classified Rep Power: 15	if you are DDing your car, i would go with a supercharger, whether its a stillen or GTM kit, a supercharger will allow you to keep a similar powerband to the stock car because boost is matching the revs unlike a turbo where you are N/A until your spool point then you get there, you get a sudden torque surge(but that is all relative to your build and what type of turbos you are using, smaller turbos=better spool time but less top end, while bigger turbos=longer spool times but better top end) imo you could go with either the stillen supercharger kit or the GTM 1.5 supercharger kit and be happy, both make lots of power under the curve which is what you want in a street build Mkai0 likes this.

04-29-2013, 10:54 AM	#32 (permalink)
edub370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2011 Location: KCMO Posts: 3,458 Drives: 09 370z S/T 6MT Rep Power: 20	mine s jsut a weekend car. i am getting the new gtm tt kit. and i'm confident that i can get by with a 25 row cooler and their larger capacity oil pan. now, on the other hand, if u go boosted and are constantly getting into boost while cruising around, u will see temps rise in a hurry. its all about how u drive __________________ 09 370Z ST 6MT//Injen CAI//Greddy CBE//TP//TSW's//Swifts//Stillen lip//Whiteline sways 326whp/268tq

04-29-2013, 11:03 AM	#33 (permalink)
docaam A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Dubai Posts: 2,532 Drives: Z34/240z/Hakosuka Rep Power: 29	Got the kit today came with two 25 row oil coolers will install both on engine. Will order radiator and fan shroud then install __________________ Old 370Z SOLD but not forgotten 370Z 40th, G37s, S30 RBZ, Hakosuka Skyline

04-29-2013, 02:32 PM	#36 (permalink)
DIGItonium A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Kansas Posts: 3,800 Drives: 09 Z34-TT 6MT Rep Power: 42	Thanks to one of the threads here regarding the coolant bleed cap, I'm going to get my coolant flushed again. My last tech didn't know about it after doing the heater core flush and only burped the system. I still hear bubbling in the core, and the car wants to overheat when ambient is at least 90F. When I picked it up in Houston, it can survive 100F+ temps without overheating. __________________

04-30-2013, 05:18 AM	#38 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	just remember blowing up and wearing out are two different things. have the motor compression or leakdown tested to so where it stands now if you are worried about the condition of it. barring a few cases i'm sure its fine but best to know before you do it. if it does come in on the low side you know a rebuild may be in your future. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

05-01-2013, 11:05 PM	#40 (permalink)
roplusbee A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Killeen, TX Posts: 2,360 Drives: 2007 350Z NISMO Rep Power: 22	It's funny that you mention 2 tunes. I was just going to comment on how my single 34 row OC handles the awesome TX heat, but now I want to comment on multiple tunes. I have found that my low boost tune suffers from increased heat soak as opposed to my high boost tune that seems to be the more preferred one of the 2 for me. I have a strange stumble on the transition to positive boost pressure differential on low and almost nonexistent on high. But I think I have a vac leak and O2 sensor issues as well (just an intuitive guess) that I will be hunting down @ UPREV late this week or early next week. __________________ 2007 350Z NISMO #0618: Zerolift \| UPREV \| F.I. \| Greddy \| Competition Clutch \| Injector Dynamics \| Aeromotive \| Pioneer \| JL