370z Forced Induction for Noobs...

jwick · 05-13-2015, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

Boosted cars seem to go boom earlier for people that don't really know what they're getting into. I'm going to guess by your questions, that you have no intentions of DIYing this project and haven't boosted a car before. Don't cut corners with your shop. Be prepared to throw $10K at least into the project and have enough funds set aside for when something does go wrong. Proper maintenance and regular inspection of whatever FI system you choose is extremely important.

Fast Intentions makes some good points in a thread specifically regarding maintenance and longevity of their TT kit. There are a number of other threads (including ones stickied in the FI section) that you should read up on before moving forward.

TT Maintenance and Long term things NOOBS should know

That number is more like $15-20k if you plan to do it correctly.

TerribleONE · 05-13-2015, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

That number is more like $15-20k if you plan to do it correctly.

Install and a quality tune are the most important things when boosting a car that came NA from the factory.

SDatl404 · 05-13-2015, 10:34 AM

I've got plenty of experience modifying cars, just not 370s which is why I asked for insight from the community. I don't want to boost the car if the driveline is fragile. I love the 370z. Super fun car, but more power is always welcome if it can be done without affecting reliability or forcing me to change the way I drive my car.

theDreamer · 05-13-2015, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SDatl404

Just curious what everyday hard driving would do to reliability when boosted. Like transmission, rear end, driveshaft, ect. Can you still drive the car hard or is it going to pop something when you turn the boost up?

I will also add that boost will not be the 1st thing to destroy your car it will be denotation. A bad tune on a great kit & perfect supporting mods will destroy your car faster than anything.
Additionally, we have people who are putting hard miles on their cars with high power.

DJTodd: Link Is a track ready car with a twin turbo kit making some great strides
Phunk: Link Over 60k miles on a twin turbo kit and e85 who was pushing the 1/4 mile limits, what broke the car was the clutch/CSC at the drag strip.
My own car was at 70k miles with boost when my SC seized from a fluid leak and the rest of the car was running great. Engine is still fine even after this event, so now has given me my reason for upgrades!!

I can keep going on more cars from Fast Intentions, AAM, even GTM kits are still running strong on many cars, BP's kits are doing well. It comes down to going in with the right mindset and money.

TerribleONE · 05-13-2015, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SDatl404

I've got plenty of experience modifying cars, just not 370s which is why I asked for insight from the community. I don't want to boost the car if the driveline is fragile. I love the 370z. Super fun car, but more power is always welcome if I can be done without affecting reliability or forcing me to change the way I drive my car.

There is always the chance that something can go wrong, however a lot of us have had nothing but positive experiences. Stay up on your fluid changes and you should be good to go. My car doesn't leave the garage for anything but "spirited" runs

JARblue · 05-13-2015, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SDatl404

I've got plenty of experience modifying cars, just not 370s which is why I asked for insight from the community. I don't want to boost the car if the driveline is fragile. I love the 370z. Super fun car, but more power is always welcome if it can be done without affecting reliability or forcing me to change the way I drive my car.

Do you have experience boosting a NA car? That's probably the key experience you would want.. As mentioned, a number of people are going strong on FI, and those that have had problems are typically due to the tune.

The Z bones are fairly strong. 7AT is pretty much the weak point; 6MT less so but still needs new CSC and clutch to handle FI. Motor is pretty stout to a certain point. A lot of the supporting mods are for cooling purposes. The Z likes to run hot even when NA, so it's important that cooling is a priority when boosting.

KratikosG37 · 05-13-2015, 10:48 AM

Like I said before, "it's a gamble". That's why I suggested not to DD your boosted VQ. I have about 15k boosted, and 5 to 6k hard miles. Had 0 issues, but that's not say I won't ever have issues. Could blow the engine, trans, or what ever else next week.

Driving hard 24/7 isn't ideal for any weekend warrior, must less for a DD. You have to have a contingency plan. I would call Z1 or what ever shop you feel comfortable with for a quote on a engine built, trans, rear end, and what ever else you think make break.
Have that savings stacked up that way if something blows you can get it fixed ASAP.

Just like that G37 I told some people around in a different thread. He made a TT VQ a DD and blew the trans 2 weeks later. Making 40 to 140mhp pulls, which the new owner had no one to blame but himself. 4k in trans work just like that, nothing you can do.

If you going to beat up a DD boosted VQ, I suggest running it at a passive 6 psi. Which what Im going to do when I start tracking it. Yes you will have less power, yes other people will be fast, but at least you have less chance in spending 20K plus in repairs, and to me that's a much better win than beating the person next you.

1LIFE · 05-13-2015, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TerribleONE

I have about 5k miles of hard driving on mine with no issues except that my face hurts from smiling so much.

This

Boost it.. Drive the hell out of it.. If it breaks fix it..

KratikosG37 · 05-13-2015, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer

I will also add that boost will not be the 1st thing to destroy your car it will be denotation. A bad tune on a great kit & perfect supporting mods will destroy your car faster than anything.
Additionally, we have people who are putting hard miles on their cars with high power.

DJTodd: Link Is a track ready car with a twin turbo kit making some great strides
Phunk: Link Over 60k miles on a twin turbo kit and e85 who was pushing the 1/4 mile limits, what broke the car was the clutch/CSC at the drag strip.
My own car was at 70k miles with boost when my SC seized from a fluid leak and the rest of the car was running great. Engine is still fine even after this event, so now has given me my reason for upgrades!!

I can keep going on more cars from Fast Intentions, AAM, even GTM kits are still running strong on many cars, BP's kits are doing well. It comes down to going in with the right mindset and money.

Bad tunes on good fuel

Good tune on bad fuel

Good tune on good fuel

(things can still go wrong)

Make sure your tune is done right that's everything.

TerribleONE · 05-13-2015, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kratikosg37

like i said before, "it's a gamble". That's why i suggested not to dd your boosted vq. I have about 15k boosted, and 5 to 6k hard miles. Had 0 issues, but that's not say i won't ever have issues. Could blow the engine, trans, or what ever else next week.

Driving hard 24/7 isn't ideal for any weekend warrior, must less for a dd. You have to have a contingency plan. I would call z1 or what ever shop you feel comfortable with for a quote on a engine built, trans, rear end, and what ever else you think make break.
Have that savings stacked up that way if something blows you can get it fixed asap.

Just like that g37 i told some people around in a different thread. he made a tt vq a dd and blew the trans 2 weeks later. Making 40 to 140mhp pulls, which the new owner had no one to blame but himself. 4k in trans work just like that, nothing you can do.

if you going to beat up a dd boosted vq, i suggest running it at a passive 6 psi. Which what im going to do when i start tracking it. Yes you will have less power, yes other people will be fast, but at least you have less chance in spending 20k plus in repairs, and to me that's a much better win than beating the person next you.

6mt???

Driftomodachi · 05-13-2015, 12:33 PM

Over build the motor (pistons/rings/rods/bearings), over build the clutch, only boost up to 80% capacity, make sure boost is in the turbo's sweet spot, get a GOOD tune to always make sure the a/f ratio is on point, program the tune to activate limp mode as soon as any safety parameters are breached and you will have a long lasting reliable motor

Get boost, wideband, water/oil temp and oil pressure gauges

KratikosG37 · 05-13-2015, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TerribleONE

6mt???

auto with badly needed shift kit.

KratikosG37 · 05-13-2015, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Driftomodachi

Over build the motor (pistons/rings/rods/bearings), over build the clutch, only boost up to 80% capacity, make sure boost is in the turbo's sweet spot, get a GOOD tune to always make sure the a/f ratio is on point, program the tune to activate limp mode as soon as any safety parameters are breached and you will have a long lasting reliable motor

Get boost, wideband, water/oil temp and oil pressure gauges

or just running it with a passive 6 PSI 80% of the time.....

theDreamer · 05-13-2015, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Driftomodachi

Over build the motor (pistons/rings/rods/bearings), over build the clutch, only boost up to 80% capacity, make sure boost is in the turbo's sweet spot, get a GOOD tune to always make sure the a/f ratio is on point, program the tune to activate limp mode as soon as any safety parameters are breached and you will have a long lasting reliable motor

Get boost, wideband, water/oil temp and oil pressure gauges

My one disagreement is to not build the motor. With how well our engines are holding up in the 400-600whp range you would be taking on more risk with a built motor that could open up a huge can of worms.
Now if they want to go the route of others on here for 700-900whp then yes get that sucker built!

KratikosG37 · 05-13-2015, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer

My one disagreement is to not build the motor. With how well our engines are holding up in the 400-600whp range you would be taking on more risk with a built motor that could open up a huge can of worms.
Now if they want to go the route of others on here for 700-900whp then yes get that sucker built!

700-900whp is un-usable. 12PSI tune on stock all anyone can truly use. Haven't seen any 1/4 times worth talking about with 700-900whp.

05-13-2015, 10:48 AM	#67 (permalink)
KratikosG37 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: New Orleans, LA Posts: 273 Drives: 09 TT Wrapped G37 Rep Power: 11	Like I said before, "it's a gamble". That's why I suggested not to DD your boosted VQ. I have about 15k boosted, and 5 to 6k hard miles. Had 0 issues, but that's not say I won't ever have issues. Could blow the engine, trans, or what ever else next week. Driving hard 24/7 isn't ideal for any weekend warrior, must less for a DD. You have to have a contingency plan. I would call Z1 or what ever shop you feel comfortable with for a quote on a engine built, trans, rear end, and what ever else you think make break. Have that savings stacked up that way if something blows you can get it fixed ASAP. Just like that G37 I told some people around in a different thread. He made a TT VQ a DD and blew the trans 2 weeks later. Making 40 to 140mhp pulls, which the new owner had no one to blame but himself. 4k in trans work just like that, nothing you can do. If you going to beat up a DD boosted VQ, I suggest running it at a passive 6 psi. Which what Im going to do when I start tracking it. Yes you will have less power, yes other people will be fast, but at least you have less chance in spending 20K plus in repairs, and to me that's a much better win than beating the person next you. BOLIO 671 likes this. __________________ KratikosG37 Build Log http://www.myg37.com/forums/build-th...ml#post3888739

05-13-2015, 12:33 PM	#71 (permalink)
Driftomodachi Enthusiast Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Cerritos, CA Posts: 482 Drives: 2010 40th Rep Power: 13	Over build the motor (pistons/rings/rods/bearings), over build the clutch, only boost up to 80% capacity, make sure boost is in the turbo's sweet spot, get a GOOD tune to always make sure the a/f ratio is on point, program the tune to activate limp mode as soon as any safety parameters are breached and you will have a long lasting reliable motor Get boost, wideband, water/oil temp and oil pressure gauges SDatl404 likes this. __________________ 2010 40th Anniversary ll GT-R start button ll GT-R map lenses ll Plastidipped fangs and rear valence ll OEM foglight & switch ll Motordyne E370 Cat back ll Motordyne ART Pipes ll Takeda aFe Attack CAI ll Sprint Booster ll Z1 34 row Setrab oil cooler ll Z1 Motorsports M-Spec Shift Knob Last edited by Driftomodachi; 05-13-2015 at 12:36 PM.

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05-13-2015, 10:34 AM	#63 (permalink)
SDatl404 Base Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Fort Lauderdale Posts: 7 Drives: 2015 M6 370z Rep Power: 10	I've got plenty of experience modifying cars, just not 370s which is why I asked for insight from the community. I don't want to boost the car if the driveline is fragile. I love the 370z. Super fun car, but more power is always welcome if it can be done without affecting reliability or forcing me to change the way I drive my car.