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GTM 1.5 upgrade

I just placed my order, anyone here with DIY info? I did my 1.0 install without any problems. Just looking ahead. Thanks

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Old 03-09-2013, 02:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default GTM 1.5 upgrade

I just placed my order, anyone here with DIY info?

I did my 1.0 install without any problems.

Just looking ahead.

Thanks
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:31 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by pokeyl View Post
I just placed my order, anyone here with DIY info?

I did my 1.0 install without any problems.

Just looking ahead.

Thanks
If you did the install on your GTM stage 1 then you will be able to tackle this with no problem.
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:04 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If you did the install on your GTM stage 1 then you will be able to tackle this with no problem.

I did the install but were some holes.

One, was it never tells you to install the upper intake.

Also, did not see a torque spec on the SC pulley.

Last, I think I spent more time installing and getting the clamps on the charge tubes than anything else.

I use to proof install kits on aircraft for the US Air Force. It's just the way I am.

Thanks
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If you did the install on your GTM stage 1 then you will be able to tackle this with no problem.
What pulley are you running? I have the 1.5 default (92mm) and the Smallest one Sam sells 84mm
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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What pully are you running? I have the 1.5 default and the Smallest one Sam sells 84mm
I have the 88 mm pulley which is 11 lbs the 84 mm is 12 lb
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Old 04-02-2013, 12:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I have the 88 mm pulley which is 11 lbs the 84 mm is 12 lb
I just finished the read on your build. You did your tune? Awesome!!! any trick you could pass on to me would be very helpful. I will be starting with Sam's 1.5 10PSI. I have played with uprev on the stock motor for over a year before SC.

I have no dyno nearby but today I checked the boost PSI at RPM in 4th from 2500 to 7000. 3 PSI at 2500, 5 PSI at 4000, 8 PSI at 6500. Stage is so limited by the intake.

I also have external WB O2 for real reading and full datalogging along with the data from the engine ECU

Did you build the Knock sensor listed at uprev??
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:14 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by pokeyl View Post
I just finished the read on your build. You did your tune? Awesome!!! any trick you could pass on to me would be very helpful. I will be starting with Sam's 1.5 10PSI. I have played with uprev on the stock motor for over a year before SC.

I have no dyno nearby but today I checked the boost PSI at RPM in 4th from 2500 to 7000. 3 PSI at 2500, 5 PSI at 4000, 8 PSI at 6500. Stage is so limited by the intake.

I also have external WB O2 for real reading and full datalogging along with the data from the engine ECU

Did you build the Knock sensor listed at uprev??
No I didn't build a knock sensor tool b/c my car was on the dyno for timing change , tuning it yourself is not to different from n/a, my suggestion is call Sam and see if he will send you a tune for your new upgrade then you can play with the air fuel maps to lean it out (b/c it will be rich) and once you dial in the correction factors close as possible to 100 then you will be done.
That is probably the easiest way.
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The Rotrex compressor housings are aluminum and there aren't any helicoils for the 6 bolt holes. That's why the torque spec is only 11 ft-lbs. It sounds like the bolt pulled the threads out of the aluminum (resembling a helicoil). Helicoils are generally made from steel and have locking tabs on them. So far, there hasn't been a need to helicoil anything on our kits.

Have you checked to make sure that the torque wrench you are using is calibrated correctly for low torque? Some torque wrenches may be within spec at mid to high torque levels, but not low torque.
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The Rotrex compressor housings are aluminum and there aren't any helicoils for the 6 bolt holes. That's why the torque spec is only 11 ft-lbs. It sounds like the bolt pulled the threads out of the aluminum (resembling a helicoil). Helicoils are generally made from steel and have locking tabs on them. So far, there hasn't been a need to helicoil anything on our kits.

Have you checked to make sure that the torque wrench you are using is calibrated correctly for low torque? Some torque wrenches may be within spec at mid to high torque levels, but not low torque.
All other were good, could hasve been oversized drilled before tap... Many things could have been the problem. It's fixed now.
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Old 04-29-2013, 03:17 PM   #10 (permalink)
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My oil cooler solution, this is the long filter. I will be going back to the standard hight one! It will not stick out below the frame.



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Old 05-24-2013, 08:32 AM   #11 (permalink)
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This oil cooler is working great, no problems with air flow, less than $200 total, no cutting inder fender liner.
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