GTM 1.5 upgrade
 

I just placed my order, anyone here with DIY info?

I did my 1.0 install without any problems.

Just looking ahead.

Thanks

If you did the install on your GTM stage 1 then you will be able to tackle this with no problem.

I did the install but were some holes.

One, was it never tells you to install the upper intake.

Also, did not see a torque spec on the SC pulley.

Last, I think I spent more time installing and getting the clamps on the charge tubes than anything else.

I use to proof install kits on aircraft for the US Air Force. It's just the way I am.

Thanks

What pulley are you running? I have the 1.5 default (92mm) and the Smallest one Sam sells 84mm

I have the 88 mm pulley which is 11 lbs the 84 mm is 12 lb

I just finished the read on your build. You did your tune? Awesome!!! any trick you could pass on to me would be very helpful. I will be starting with Sam's 1.5 10PSI. I have played with uprev on the stock motor for over a year before SC.

I have no dyno nearby but today I checked the boost PSI at RPM in 4th from 2500 to 7000. 3 PSI at 2500, 5 PSI at 4000, 8 PSI at 6500. Stage is so limited by the intake.

I also have external WB O2 for real reading and full datalogging along with the data from the engine ECU

Did you build the Knock sensor listed at uprev??

No I didn't build a knock sensor tool b/c my car was on the dyno for timing change , tuning it yourself is not to different from n/a, my suggestion is call Sam and see if he will send you a tune for your new upgrade then you can play with the air fuel maps to lean it out (b/c it will be rich) and once you dial in the correction factors close as possible to 100 then you will be done.
That is probably the easiest way.

The tune came with the kit ($500 option). I'll press with leaning it out. what did you go with for target A/F or did you just use Sams targets and change the maps to hit with Zero correction IE 100??? Thanks

I figured out what my engine likes and changed the a/f targets to my liking ,I used Sam's map to run it in the beginning but like I said you have to tune it the way it wants in order to get big numbers.

I asked the admins here to allow posting of tunes because the size of the file is to large.

Over at the corvette sit, we all posted up our tune and other configurations so members did not have to start from scratch.

There was a disclamer at the top about; "Use at your own Risk"!!!!

THe Admins never got back to about creating a spot to post up maps, I have a lot of N/A work I did over the last year before the SC went on.

Thanks for the advice, my 1.5 is here, just waitng to install it and a flash from Sam.

Are you going to install it yourself or have a shop do it.

I would like it if we had a way to share tunes and test different ideas.

Yeah looked around for some help with uprev tuning and advise and nada.. Seems like no one wants to share info..

Makes it harder to learn...the bare basics I mess with. Wish I knew more though :-(

It is not that it makes it harder,on this site there isn't that many people who tune their own cars however I got most of my knowledge on the 350z site where ALLOT of those guys tune their own cars.

Myself, I did the 1.0 myself.

We should still have a place to post tunes. I would put up my A/N tune data if we had a place. Mostly timing changed to improve MPG and power. I got the SC bug and stopped playing with it before AFR and fuel schedules. I'll have to learn that under SC conditions.

Started install today. Threads one for the helicoils for the compressor housing pulled out. Did not make it to torque spec. I'll have to call Sam in the morning. I have temp fixed it but I don't want the car down for a week and I don't want to put it all together and just take back apart.

Right now it's all apart, Z-Speed front under tray looks much stronger than factory and I have worked out the mounting for the oil cooler, NON-GTM design.

If I can get the motor mount changed AM, It should be back in service PM tomorrow, with the temp fix housing.

The Rotrex compressor housings are aluminum and there aren't any helicoils for the 6 bolt holes. That's why the torque spec is only 11 ft-lbs. It sounds like the bolt pulled the threads out of the aluminum (resembling a helicoil). Helicoils are generally made from steel and have locking tabs on them. So far, there hasn't been a need to helicoil anything on our kits.

Have you checked to make sure that the torque wrench you are using is calibrated correctly for low torque? Some torque wrenches may be within spec at mid to high torque levels, but not low torque.

All other were good, could hasve been oversized drilled before tap... Many things could have been the problem. It's fixed now.

My oil cooler solution, this is the long filter. I will be going back to the standard hight one! It will not stick out below the frame.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...psef8b08cb.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...psfb5cc92d.jpg

This oil cooler is working great, no problems with air flow, less than $200 total, no cutting inder fender liner.