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Forced Induction no one to talk to

I am a new owner who bought a 2010 370z with a GTM TT from a seller who new absolutely nothing about the car. I have a few questions that

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Old 02-11-2013, 04:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Forced Induction no one to talk to

I am a new owner who bought a 2010 370z with a GTM TT from a seller who new absolutely nothing about the car. I have a few questions that I was hoping to get a few answers.

Questions:

Oil temp runs at around 240 once it stablizes. Is that normal ?

There is a spacer on the oil pan. I guessing because more oil is needed for cooling on a TT ?

How many quarts does this engine take with the added spacer.

Do I need an oil temp cooler ? ( I don't drive with a led foot all the time)

I assuming the bumper has to come off to clean or replace the K&M filters ?

An OS Giken LSD was installed. When changing lanes or turning a sharp corner from a stop or slightly rolling I have felt what feels like a little slipage possibly coming from the LSD. Not sure what it is, but do not know if this is normal ?

Anyone one know a good tuner between Bellevue and Everett in Washington State ? The car was tuned last in June at R&H garage in Seattle but there dyno computer has crashed since then and lost the records. Don't think I want to take it there.

I plan on getting this car tuned because every other day or so it will start knocking lightly out of the blue. If I stop and turn the engine off, wait a minute and restart, the issue resolves until the car decides to do it again. Nothing that I do catylizes the event. Most of the instance were just driving 65 down the freeway and all of a sudden the issue start. Had a friend read the code and he said it was a misfire code.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You should have researched a lot more before buyin the car.

Oil temp is kinda high but that is expected on these cars, especially with a turbo on it. You will need an oil cooler to keep it down.

Think it's 7-8 quarts needed but jus check when ur refilling.

The most troubling part is the constant knock ur hearing. This is why you should have researched before buying. I'm not sure what tuners are close to ur area but make sure you find a good one and take it there and have em check it out. Hopefully it's not something serious. Good luck OP
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:55 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The fact that the previous owner was clueless is VERY troubling, but you already bought the car.

On top of what was already said, pray the motor doesn't spontaneously shoot chunks out of your bottom end, and if you can't see the intake filters in the engine bay, you'll have to remove your bumper to get them *unless you're incredibly flexible.*

Oh and yes the oil spacer is to provide more oil to help with cooling and prevent oil starvation on very hard corning, only seen one case where that caused a failure though.
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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First thing you do is find out which GTM kit you have that will tell you were the filters are.

Next take a sample of your oil and send it to Blackstone for analysis that will help with telling you the condition of your engine.

3rd or last find a good tuner and get it on the dyno to see what power it is putting down and if it is crazy high you can dial it back which will help with engine life.
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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In for a disaster
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lineyho View Post

Oil temp runs at around 240 once it stablizes. Is that normal ?

Do I need an oil temp cooler ? ( I don't drive with a led foot all the time)

I assuming the bumper has to come off to clean or replace the K&M filters ?
Get an oil cooler. you're running a little hot. Yep, bumper has to come off.

Also, if I were you I'd go get a compression and leakdown test in addition to the oil analysis suggested above. It wouldn't be a bad idea to go get it tuned on a dyno or shoot Sam@GTM a data log and see what he thinks.
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Your random misfire could be a number of things.

1. It could be that the engine is running to fat and spitting way to much fuel. This will also burn up your cats, if the car has still has them. Keeping them on a FI car isn't a good idea. You will eventually burn them up.

2. It could be a bad plug or ignition coil. These will cause your car misfire and could be the reason you hear a knocking sound.

3. It could be dirty oil. This will cause your timing valve to get stuck open. When that happens, hope you have a 10mm, a rag, a small screw driver and about 30 minutes on the side of the road to fix. FI cars will burn through the oil faster and dirty it up quicker since it's doing double duty. I was changing mine about every 2000 miles.

These things I know from past experiences and they are all simple fixes. If the knock isn't any of these things then it could be that last owner ran the sh*t out of the car, knew it was about to blow up and sold it off before he had to pay to fix it.

Good Luck!
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Also what size injectors are in the car? What type of plugs are in the car? If the past owner doesn't know these things, now is the time to learn how to work on your car. Learn, learn, learn. These engines are easy to work on...just don't lose anything. Minus the demon bolts
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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My money is on that the original owner knew the motor was going and passed it off as playing stupid. Who spends all the money on an FI kit and not know anything about it? Gtm kit, clutch and no oil cooler?? Hmmmm sounds like the oil was cooked n f'd the motor up.
Who spends money on FI n not know anything bout what there buying? I could be wrong tho as OP bought a TT car that he knew nuttin about.
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:17 PM   #11 (permalink)
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My money is on that the original owner knew the motor was going and passed it off as playing stupid. Who spends all the money on an FI kit and not know anything about it? Gtm kit, clutch and no oil cooler?? Hmmmm sounds like the oil was cooked n f'd the motor up.
Who spends money on FI n not know anything bout what there buying? I could be wrong tho as OP bought a TT car that he knew nuttin about.
I learned quickly. When the problems are rolling in most people will back away from it. I'm just glad the next owner of my old Z won't have these problems. Man dare I ask how much you paid for the car?

Turning off the codes is easy if you have the Cipher program....Easy to hide codes.

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Old 02-11-2013, 08:21 PM   #12 (permalink)
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My oil temps run around 200-220 this time of year up here on my g. I have an oil cooler though, 240 is pretty hot especially for winter. Probably want an oil cooler by summer. I can access my filters by taking off the corner under panel ofvthe wheel well. I am sure the z is different, but may be worth a look. I called around locally, and no one was familiar with uprev locally, closest reputable one was in portland. Iiltech in bellevue said they could work with it, but i have heard some bad reviews of thier service. Did the uprev cable come with the car? If so, hook it up, take some logs and send it sam at gtm. He should be able to tell if anything major is out of line. In had my tt tuned at thier shop in socal, and it runs perfect up here all year.
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:56 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I bought the car from a young couple who only had it for 6 months. They only put about 1500 miles on it and couldn't afford it anymore. divorce yada yaday... Wife worked at a Toyota dealer where it was traded in by the original owner and installer of all the equipment. The young couple bought it before it went up for sale at the dealer. The couple really only knew it had a twin turbo. They know nothing about cars. I doubt if a Toyota dealer would take a trade without checking the car out or selling it to one of their employees and giving them a 3 year warranty. You never know though. This car was VQstrykers car on this forum. I only figured this out while researching 370's on the internet. It's odd that Stryker would spend all the money and do all that work then trade it in, but I have heard of odder things. Stuff happens. You can still look up his profile and all about the car on this forum. It's a 2010 base with less than 19000 miles. I paid a few thousand over retail book for the car and it does not have a scratch on it. I felt sorry for the kids because the had a hunk to pay off after I bought it. A few grand for all the mods, TT, 3" exhaust -not cats, 650hp clutch, LSD Diff, gauges and install, was worth it. If I have to put a little money into it to fix what is wrong, it's not going to be a big deal.
Anyway I have an appointment at Zsports in Everett who have been Dyno tuning for 20 years and who the owner raced cars for Nissan. I'm not too worried about the issues and appreciate your ideas and suggestions so far. I will be taking some of your suggestions to the next level. Thanks
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:19 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Greedy, I did not get the uprev cable. That is one thing on my list and probably the cipher software. I think an oil cooler is probably a must. However, why doesn't GTM highly recommend or add one to their turn key kit ? Tower74, the kits have the 600cc injectors that come with the standard GTM stage II kit. Don't know what plugs are in there but I would imagine that they may have been replace in June of 2012. No cats. AFR seems to be running at the appropriate ranges. 1st thing I thought might be a plug or coil. Zsport should be able to figure out that one. Baer383. Thanks for the oil tip, I just order the sample kit. Car is at 9.5psi, dyno 433 in June 2012 with wheels slipping. Thanks Elperuano for the oil response.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:33 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Greedy, I did not get the uprev cable. That is one thing on my list and probably the cipher software. I think an oil cooler is probably a must. However, why doesn't GTM highly recommend or add one to their turn key kit ? Tower74, the kits have the 600cc injectors that come with the standard GTM stage II kit. Don't know what plugs are in there but I would imagine that they may have been replace in June of 2012. No cats. AFR seems to be running at the appropriate ranges. 1st thing I thought might be a plug or coil. Zsport should be able to figure out that one. Baer383. Thanks for the oil tip, I just order the sample kit. Car is at 9.5psi, dyno 433 in June 2012 with wheels slipping. Thanks Elperuano for the oil response.
If they were replaced there is a good chance they threw some cheap asz plugs in the car, not know that it needs high end plugs. Still the random misfire is something to worry about. If this is your only car I would only use when you have to drive it. You could compound the problem. Good to you found the former owner. Good luck
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