Oh, and you'll probably need a re-tune, because likely your tuner has used fuel compensation to get around weird readings from your MAF sensors, so they'll need to kinda start over once you stabilize MAF response.

Actually, when we were doing some data logging....he mentioned that all the AFR settings were correct, it just gets all wacky when its fluctuating up and down. But when it is not fluctuating, all settings are where they need to be. Now i just need to measure the inlets....ugh, have to take off bumper :(

I have to wonder if this is correct. What I have been told by my tuner and by Stillen is that no matter that the airflow is completely changed/stabilized by the tubine before it hits the TBA, the engine perceives a problem at the MAF and is trying to adjust air/fuel balance to solve a problem that is only a matter of perception (rather than reality).

Sounds like a philosophical/existential debate!

But I agree that honeycombs or extended intake tubes would probably help. I prefer the Honeycomb option theoretically if only because the added weight at the nose of this already nose heavy car would be less.
BTW I am currently in communication with Stillen on this issue and they are working on it as we speak.

Gotta take off the d*mn bumper to make any changes anyway. Please post your tube ID/OD dimensions when you have them.

i'm terrible with acronyms...ID/OD? But yes, i'll post them...just not sure when i'll get around to taking bumper off.

IAT is definitely used in closed loop mode, but it's only one of several factors used.

Only one bank is reported to the OBD CAN system, that can be confirmed with a hair dryer and any logging tool. That said, maybe the ECU still sees both readings and uses them. I can't say for certain.

In the end, the temperature differential between the two sensors mounted inches apart can't be so large as to matter, in a forced induction setup. And the car would soon learn around any potential issue at the time of flashing. That's what learned fuel trim is for, after all.

:)

Inside and Outside Diameter.

Your MAF may report different voltages after the air has been straightened, though, and those voltages may change differently through the RPM range.

That's why he would have used fuel compensation to even it out.

Or it may be identical, who can say without trying? haha

Edit:
To clarify what I mean, lets say that @ WOT you start at 1.2v around 2k RPM and by redline you're reading 4.6v.

Then you straighten out your airflow and now you're getting 0.9v at 2k RPM and by redline you're at 4.8v. Because the turbulence compressed your delta V over the rev range, and now that the turbulence isn't there, you're getting accurate flow numbers.

But because your tuner set up your fueling tables based on that 1.2v-4.6v spread, you've got inaccurate fueling data throughout the rev range. See what I mean?

(this is all theoretical, numbers picked at random)

also, if you are communicating with Stillen...can you see if they have the dimensions off hand?

Thanks for answering for me.

Okay, here it is. My SC is on the table, wiating for boost pulley.
2 Inlets on the Y:
Inside Dia 2 1/2
Outside Dia 2 7/8

Single outlet on the Y
Inside Dia 2 5/8
Outside Dia 3

Reducer Boot from Y to SC intake:
2 1/2

SC outlet:
Inside 2 3/8
Outside 2 7/8

Intake tube from SC to Throttle Bodies:
From SC side 2 5/8
From (2) throttle body side 2 1/2

Of note, the center of the MAF Mount is 2 inched from the K&N filter. If you need more let me know! Hope this helps..

Lotta extra work goin on here!

Yes, Yes, we know how you feel, gloating isn't very nice.

So order a couple of 63.5/64MM air straighteners, probably 5:1 or 7:1 and put them just inside the inlet pipe before the MAF's and I bet your drivability issues go away.

Thanks for the info I decided to contact saxonpc the website for the honeycomb to get their advice on the right size to order. I will let the forum know when I have a response.