Stillen supercharger long term reports

Sh0velMan

Call these guys and order some straighteners cut to the diameter of the inlet pipes. Install (with epoxy) directly before the MAFs. That flutter will go away.

Honeycomb for MAF

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Osiris

oh wow, you might just be on to something there!! And it's cheap...now just to figure out the thickness to use???

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kellyefields

the honeycomb may be the ticket to get the air going through the tubes right but I still believe blocking direct air especially to the lower filter is the real fix otherwise you will always have the lower MAF reading higher than the upper even though it will always be the same going into the engine.

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Sh0velMan

IAT sensor is only utilized on one bank anyway, and the S/C itself equalizes the real temps... So yeah. Non-issue.

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irondoc

I have to wonder if this is correct. What I have been told by my tuner and by Stillen is that no matter that the airflow is completely changed/stabilized by the tubine before it hits the TBA, the engine perceives a problem at the MAF and is trying to adjust air/fuel balance to solve a problem that is only a matter of perception (rather than reality).

Sounds like a philosophical/existential debate!

But I agree that honeycombs or extended intake tubes would probably help. I prefer the Honeycomb option theoretically if only because the added weight at the nose of this already nose heavy car would be less.
BTW I am currently in communication with Stillen on this issue and they are working on it as we speak.

Sh0velMan

Guys in blow-through setups like to use the higher ratios, but I think 5:1 should be fine for what you guys are trying to do.

I plan on putting some 4:1 or 5:1's in my intakes when I rebuild them. Should clean up the idle.

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Sh0velMan

Oh, and you'll probably need a re-tune, because likely your tuner has used fuel compensation to get around weird readings from your MAF sensors, so they'll need to kinda start over once you stabilize MAF response.

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Osiris

Actually, when we were doing some data logging....he mentioned that all the AFR settings were correct, it just gets all wacky when its fluctuating up and down. But when it is not fluctuating, all settings are where they need to be. Now i just need to measure the inlets....ugh, have to take off bumper

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irondoc

Gotta take off the d*mn bumper to make any changes anyway. Please post your tube ID/OD dimensions when you have them.

Osiris

i'm terrible with acronyms...ID/OD? But yes, i'll post them...just not sure when i'll get around to taking bumper off.

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Sh0velMan

Inside and Outside Diameter.

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Sh0velMan

Your MAF may report different voltages after the air has been straightened, though, and those voltages may change differently through the RPM range.

That's why he would have used fuel compensation to even it out.

Or it may be identical, who can say without trying? haha

Edit:
To clarify what I mean, lets say that @ WOT you start at 1.2v around 2k RPM and by redline you're reading 4.6v.

Then you straighten out your airflow and now you're getting 0.9v at 2k RPM and by redline you're at 4.8v. Because the turbulence compressed your delta V over the rev range, and now that the turbulence isn't there, you're getting accurate flow numbers.

But because your tuner set up your fueling tables based on that 1.2v-4.6v spread, you've got inaccurate fueling data throughout the rev range. See what I mean?

(this is all theoretical, numbers picked at random)

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Osiris

also, if you are communicating with Stillen...can you see if they have the dimensions off hand?

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Nut_N_Much

Okay, here it is. My SC is on the table, wiating for boost pulley.
2 Inlets on the Y:
Inside Dia 2 1/2
Outside Dia 2 7/8

Single outlet on the Y
Inside Dia 2 5/8
Outside Dia 3

Reducer Boot from Y to SC intake:
2 1/2

SC outlet:
Inside 2 3/8
Outside 2 7/8

Intake tube from SC to Throttle Bodies:
From SC side 2 5/8
From (2) throttle body side 2 1/2

Of note, the center of the MAF Mount is 2 inched from the K&N filter. If you need more let me know! Hope this helps..

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elperuano

Lotta extra work goin on here!