*****Fast Intentions "Twin Turbo Kit" is here*****

Nixlimited

Quick question to my TT compatriots. My system, as below, uses the HTA2868 turbos and I have no cats and a 2.5" FI exhaust. My engine is also fairly fresh--just 5100 miles.

I am getting some fairly substantial blue smoke at times while driving the car. I assume by color and smell, that it is oil being burned. It seems to happen mostly when slowing down while in gear (i.e. while pulling a lot of vacuum) and seems to be more prevalent when the car is cold than warm, though today it happened after a quick jaunt in traffic with the car completely warmed up and very little boost. It's never happened when I start the car up, and it doesn't happen when the car idles. I also assume the amount of smoke may be a bit misleading due to the vacuum trap behind the car while it is moving causing it to build up.

I know to some extent, having no cats and such, I will get less refined exhaust gas. I have dealt with that before. However, I am concerned about the source of the oil being burnt. If it only happened when cold, I would think, maybe blowby as things warm up. But I am also curious whether I may have a bad turbo seal.

In any event, I was hoping to see whether anyone running TTs and no cats has similar experience. If not, then I may have an issue unique to my car. If so, then I may need to just consider some downstream cats and catch-cans.

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N0SL3N

It seems like it could be a blown seal in the turbo, stuck PCV valve or bad valve seals.

However I had this same problem with my dad's Porsche and it turns out that it was just too much oil in the engine.

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Nixlimited

I'll check the oil level today just to make sure it's not too high or too low.

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Car Sold! Pleasure being a part of the Z community.
New ride: 2015 GT-R - 647 WHP / 641 WTQ (e85) & 543 WHP / 519 WTQ (91)

Rid3_FaM0uS

My turbo is smoking and it's brand new. The shaft has normal play in it so is one of my seals blown?
A. The term "blown seal" is widely used to describe a turbo that has oil coming out of it. In reality a turbocharger seal cannot become damaged until the freeplay of the shaft has increased to the point where the blades of the turbocharger have been rubbing against the housings. Blade contact usually requires more than .035" of side to side movement of the shaft. In some cases it is even possible to rub the blades and still not damage the seals.
If the turbo is new and the shaft isn't loose and bouncing off the housings, but oil is coming out of it chances are you can correct the problem without even taking the turbo back off the car.

The seals within the turbo are not meant to hold back a bearing housing that has become full of oil. They are designed to sling the oil mist and spray within the bearing housing away from the point where the shaft comes out each end. If the bearing housing becomes full of oil it will ooze out past even brand new seal rings.

The oil should freely drain out of the bearing housing as quickly as the engine supplies it. This is why the drain tube is so much larger than the supply tube. Gravity is the only force moving the oil out of the turbocharger. Any slight restriction in the oil drain tube, even a small silicone dingle berry, can slightly impede the draining of the oil and cause oil to back up into the bearing housing.

The crankcase vents are the second largest cause of oil loss from a good condition turbocharger. The seals in the turbocharger were designed with expectation that the pressure inside the compressor and turbine housing will always be greater than the pressure in the bearing housing. If this is ever not the case then oil will come out pass the seals. A restricted crankcase vent will cause this to happen. If the amount of ring blowby exceeds the ability of the crank vents to release the pressure positive pressure will build within the crankcase. This pressure within the crankcase can exceed the pressure inside the compressor and turbine housings under some operating conditions resulting in oil being driven pass the seals by the improperly biased pressure gradient across the seal rings. In severe cases it may be necessary to introduce vacuum pumps to deal with crankcase pressure, but these would be very severe high boost applications where even low percentages of blowby produce a high volume of crankcase vent flow.

Here you go nix this would be a good place to start. Pulled this FAQ right from forced performances website

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Ninjahero

How much longer for the Automatic Transmission upgrade. I can not wait any longer. =\

cycy89

You cannot waiting any longer? !?!?! Lol


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Fast Intentions Twin Turbo Kit GT2860RS, 677WHP|FI 34 row oil cooler|F.I. CBE|Fast 500E return fuel system|FI trans cooler|FI billet aluminum flex plate|Excedy clutch packs|ENKEI RP03|BC BR coilovers|SEIBON Carbon|EVO-R Rear fog light|GTR push start|Whiteline sway bars, Diff bushing|DSS axles|ECUTekW/FlexFuelTune

Ninjahero

I'm seriously about to just order the Twin Turbo kit and have Z car garage in San Jose install it and say screw it. My transmission blows it blows.

cycy89

Patience man. It's almost ready I think.

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Fast Intentions Twin Turbo Kit GT2860RS, 677WHP|FI 34 row oil cooler|F.I. CBE|Fast 500E return fuel system|FI trans cooler|FI billet aluminum flex plate|Excedy clutch packs|ENKEI RP03|BC BR coilovers|SEIBON Carbon|EVO-R Rear fog light|GTR push start|Whiteline sway bars, Diff bushing|DSS axles|ECUTekW/FlexFuelTune

Ninjahero

Telling a 20 year old kid patience for (God Tier Extra Performance for his Z) is like telling a 3 year old kid they can't have candy yet. They both want it now. Lol

rcdash

Get a replacement PCV valve ($15), drill it out from behind so it is just an open nipple, put a breather on it, cap off any open hoses and see if the problem goes away. If it does, you have a crankcase ventilation issue and you can reference multiple threads on how best to address. You may continue to see smoke for a few miles as oil in the intake system works its way through.

7419sundat

Get a replacement PCV valve ($15), drill it out from behind so it is just an open nipple, put a breather on it, cap off any open hoses and see if the problem goes away. If it does, you have a crankcase ventilation issue and you can reference multiple threads on how best to address. You may continue to see smoke for a few miles as oil in the intake system works its way through.

What does it mean if it made the oil burning issue worse?

rcdash

Oil burning as in seeing smoke or in having to add oil? If it is the latter, you need to identify where your oil is going...

1. Past rings -> crankcase (not an issue with open breather)
2. Past valves -> into exhaust (I think unusual in our engines)
3. Past turbo "seal" -> into exhaust (could be excess resistance in return line, increased air intake resistance, decreased exhaust resistance, oil too thin)

Nixlimited

As in seeing blue smoke under certain conditions.

I am headed up to SpecialtyZ to install CSF's new triple-pass radiator soon so he is going to diagnose the issue during that time. Will report more when I know more.

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Car Sold! Pleasure being a part of the Z community.
New ride: 2015 GT-R - 647 WHP / 641 WTQ (e85) & 543 WHP / 519 WTQ (91)

COSMO

I'm curious of what tony opinions are on this issue..

Arrvaxx

**Is dying!**

At least I get to drive my son's G35 home from Vegas in a few weeks. Driving a 2013 eco-Sentra is KILLING ME!

Were you able to bring back enough 93 octane from ZdayZ for me?

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