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Originally Posted by Sh0velMan This kit makes me wonder if it makes more sense to go this route than swapping in a high-displacement N/A engine. I'm thinking, for the track,
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#1 (permalink) | |
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My car will be on the track every 2 to 3 weeks until late November.
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DJTodd's Build Thread
![]() Fast Intentions • Volk • Stoptech • Carbotech • SPL • Southbend • OS Giken • RJM • Sparco • RobiSpec • AIM • Driver Mod |
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#2 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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#3 (permalink) | |
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I understand you're working on a build thread so I'll refrain from asking you about how you're doing heat management etc and wait to read it all in a thread. ![]() |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Congrats FI TT owners. Really curious how this does on the track, I know DJTodd tracks alot and has an advanced boost control setup. Seems like it would be quite a handfull with that much torque on tap. Can't wait for the reports.
love reading this thread awesome job ![]() ![]()
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#5 (permalink) |
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Now we need Tony to start working on some magic part for the rear suspension that will allow any of us to hook up without ruining the handling of the car or ditching the rear akebonos.
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Problem is, it's gonna be a helluva job moving the suspension mount points to fix it. |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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100% agreed! But after their much deserved vacations ![]()
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#8 (permalink) |
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Ugh. Don't get me started on all that. I am in love with the vq37, not so much the rear suspension.
I really want to keep 19s, if not 18s out back. Whatever it takes tho. Sent from my LG-D950 using Tapatalk |
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#9 (permalink) |
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The current answer to making huge improvements in traction is nothing you guys want to hear.
RAISE YOUR REAR SUSPENSION! It will make tons of difference. I am going to prove it with 60' time comparisons on my 315 Toyos in a couple weeks here. The relationship between the UCA and LCA in the rear of these cars is setup for major camber gain. To raise your car as far as your coilovers go wont even get you out of extreme camber gain, but it will help a lot. Raise the car, and stiffen the rear suspension (yes backwards from normal drag racing theory). Justin and I have been playing with different ideas on making a bolt-in quick fix for this... but everything back there is working for camber gain and I am not so sure anymore than any little quick fix is going to help much. But there is one quick thing I want to try. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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We tested a prototype LCA mount we made and it helped a ton.. but doing it with just that one arm (and keep stock arm length) we had to move it so far that it really ate up ground clearance and I wouldnt want it for street driving. Next up is to do a custom LCA with a different mounting location.
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#11 (permalink) |
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Well, what are you wasting time posting here for? Get to it.
![]() If someone solves this problem, it's either going to be you, Tony or Sasha.
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#12 (permalink) | |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Congrats to all the new FI TT owners. At a relatively low wtq value (gear dependent) the car is rwd traction limited. Getting to near 0 camber or sticky rubber becomes a necessity. Gears 1 and 2 remain useless for me with RE-11s and -1 camber. I also ramp up boost to prevent the wtq spike at 4k rpms. Will try 0 camber soon... And then go back to R888s if that doesn't work. EDIT: just confirmed - SPL has the 370z versions... Last edited by rcdash; 03-20-2014 at 09:46 PM. |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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This is the route I will be going soon. Hoping I can squeeze 325/30/19s at 0 camber. Might run a diff brace too.
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