You have to not think in terms of "stages" as there is no hard and fast conventions for what it corresponds with. That term has stuck and is pretty much the least informative marketing speak. It's supposed to be a shortcut for indicating a difference between two products that are similar. You can't use it to compare across anything other than a single product line and it doesn't mean anything between manufacturers or even between two product lines of the same manufacturer.

Stage one for one company might be stage four for another. For example, as a manufacturer I can have a stage one coffee mug (guess what I'm drinking) and a stage two coffee mug. What does that tell you? Nothing. It could be the capacity, the thermal properties, or even the addition of a "World's Greatest Jackass" logo. Now assume another coffee mug maker says they have a stage seven coffee mug. What does that mean? Does it mean that it's better than my stage two mug? Does it have a missile launcher? Who knows. Okay, now say that I (still making coffee mugs) now make a stage one and two water bottle... still tells you nothing.

It's better to think of these things in terms of their actual properties. In the case of turbo kits, it's things like the CFM and spool properties of the turbochargers. Yeah, it requires being more informed on what all those numbers mean and how to read a compressor map, but it's the only way to really differentiate these things.

Oh and to answer your question, the exhaust has a huge part to do with their results. Look at the difference between the power achieved by any kit with the stock versus a full 3" exhaust. It's massive (usually the difference between 475-550whp setups) because turbos work off of a pressure differential.There are other things to consider as well, beyond just initial power numbers on a choked system with no boost controller.

All I gotta say is this man knows his stuff

i was more or less showing curiosity in what these snails can produce when they are turned up a bit and with the 3" exhaust added. i understand the marketing lingo with differences from company to company.

http://www.aquariumforum.com/customa...atar2429_1.gif

I apologize for expanding my original response while you were typing.

To answer your question then, the GT28RS has done well in single, small displacement setups (1.8-2.2L setups putting down 330whp). Thinking of the 370Z as two 1.85L 3 cylinder engines, you could roughly project that you could get much more out of two GT28RS. There are other factors to consider that would prevent you from cranking up the boost and maxing out these turbos.

That said, these turbos are probably the best match for the 370Z engine without diving into the internals of the VQ37. You don't need a bigger turbo because you can't up the boost (compression too high) and you can't make more power (connecting rods).

Yes, I understand that the GTX is better, but they're using that for the upper stage TT kits, I was more questioning the 'stage 1' kit, since that's what I will most likely be getting in the future. Thank you for your response though, learn something new every day

I suppose, but it's a small difference (~$100 or so) between the two. I guess the GT28RS would be better for DD purposes compared to the 2871 anyway.

the GT28RS .86 is a great match for this engine, especially stock internals, I made 495whp/410tq at 10psi with a very restrictive exhaust setup. if you're built it certainly depends on your power goals. Personally I never wanted more than 600-650whp max, I built for reliability. I'm quite confident the disco potatoes will get me over 600whp on 93, the GTX has some small improvements if you aren't running much boost, but once you get past ~18psi they are different animals all together.

This is not a stage 4 setup. It was late on Sunday night when I wrote what the "stages" were going to be. It had been a long week and I may of jumped the gun with what I wrote. Massive sleep deprivation tends to do that! :tiphat: We still have not fully nailed down what stage each turbo configuration will be.

The original stages of what I wrote were what we were looking at on paper. As you we all know, real world testing can yield completely different results. That being said, we see no need to offer previous listed turbine wheel options in the GTX28 series turbo's. When we define stages for our products, it is going to be related to vehicles requirements to be efficient. For example:

Stage 1 requirements are going to be for the stock car. GT2860RS, require mild fuel modifications, boost controller optional, pump gas tune for the individual that is looking to make between 450-475 RWH "daily drivable." This stage will also be the most affordable because for someone who only wants to achieve this power level, there is no need to spend unnecessary money on more expensive turbo's that they will never utilize. Everything for stage 1 will be supplied with the kit.

Stage 2 may require additional fueling modifications, i.e. Aeromotive pump vs. the Walbro pump to be able to fully utilize the GTX 28 series. As well as exhaust system requirements and MT clutch or automatic transmission modifications. A boost controller will be needed to turn up to boost for those who want to push the limits of what the stock engine can handle. The GTX2867R will most likely be our stage 2.

Stage 3 is for the big boys/gals! For individuals who want to make serious numbers. All of the requirements from stage 2 with the addition of internal engine modification, larger fueling (return fuel system), rear differential work and our 3" exhaust. Turbo's associated with this stage will be custom matched to your specific requirements, i.e. weather you are a drag racer, road racer or just the weekend street warrior. Our exhaust manifolds can support turbo's deep into the GT30 series. We can utilize turbo's that can make well over 1,000 HP to the ground if your drivetrain can support it.

The lines between the the 3 stages do not need to be in black and white. For instance, you can add a boost controller to stage 1 as well as take our car for example. This is a between a stage 1.5 and stage 2. Currently we are using stage 2 turbo's, no boost controller, still on pump 91 octane, low boost levels and the 2.5" exhaust.

All in all it depends on you as the consumer and what you want out of it. Very much like our exhaust systems we have designed a kit that can be custom tailored to your wants and needs.

We are still doing extensive testing with various combinations and the turbo system altogether. Our goal is to be able to answer any question thrown at us.

I think that this covers it all for now.

Thanks, Tony

Any plans for SC? :p

We have talked about it however perfecting this kit for the Z & G Coupe/Sedan is the top priority.

Thanks, Tony

Is CARB approval even a potential consideration for this kit? You get CARB...you get my money!

This is a big dream for all us Cali guys... The chances are very slim from what Tony and I have discussed. There is a cold start test where the cats have to start heating up within a certain time period (a good bit under a minute IIRC) and the turbos stop that from happening as they absorb a lot of air and heat as I'm sure you know. I am not saying its impossible and I am sure Tony will chime in more on this but just wanted to help give a little information.

Say if you started out with the stage 1 kit and down the road wanted to fully build the motor, could you just swap out the turbos to the gt30s and upgrade the fuel system? Would that be possible?

It would be very possible. The exhaust manifolds can support the GT30's. The innercooler along with the tubing can support it as well along with either exhaust system.

Thanks, Tony

Videos look great, Tony! I see your test driver hit the dreaded 2nd gear lock out at high RPM. :P Happens to me once in awhile, but it is very embarrassing. Prior to getting a new transmission, 3rd gear would do the same and grind.

Its been stated he is trying but it's a long process.

Nicely done Tony ^^^

What wheels are you running with the Mickey Thompsons? Do they fit over sport calipers? I need to get some since trying to drag on street tires is worthless.

Also, any info on the fuel pressure drop off?

It has base brakes on the video's

D'oh. It may be hard to find small diameter rims for the sport...

In related news, that car is gonna need some upgraded brakes with that TT kit!

:stirthepot: I hope to hear of a record breaking night for a manual transmission VQ37 motor... With the way the car ran the other night, I can certainly see a new record possible.

good eye

I think you would be very hard pressed to get any smaller than 18s on the sport brakes.. anyone know if 17s fit over the rears? I have a akebono BBK with Z1 rotors and endless pads ready to go on however we waited on installing them so we would be able to run the 16s.

This is our goal and I am very confident these guys can make it happen!

Boost controller arrived! Only if everything would ship so fast!

http://i50.tinypic.com/11izpti.jpg

also a little BOV/dyno pull videos that I took personally with my gopro. The camera is in the case with the waterproof door on so some sound was lost but if you turn it up it should get your hair to stand up (it did for me)

That sounds so good!

Just curious about the fact all of the dyno vids I've seen have the front bumper off...

How is the filters being in that location going to work with the bumper on? (Assuming OEM bumper) won't they be somewhat stifled in that location and not get as much air?

A Zele or Stillen front clip would solve that problem. :tup:

You have to take out the side shields, so plenty of air will slip past into that area.

That said, Zele would be great, Stillen at least better than stock.

Ah okay, I was expecting there to be some reasoning for this, I didn't know parts would be removed. :tup:


Agreed, I'm going by way of Zele when the time comes for body work. :excited:

popping off those little blocking plates in the bumper was the first thing i did after i got my intakes on. :tup:

Even though they don't inhibit your filter's location??

The carbon signal raptor would feed it some mad air too.

better airflow without them i feel so i took them off. they come off with like 3 or 4 screws each. took 2 minutes.

He has a full amuse kit painted and ready to go.

This thread just keeps getting better!! Some records will be broken very soon!

Even though the amuse doesn't really have much venting into the side areas, that's still cool to have in your back pocket ready to go.

We pulled the filters off completely on the dyno to see if we picked up or lost any power, however there was no difference. I am sure we can do some runs with the bumper on if there is a speculation that this is inflating results. Also the car did go 11.8 @ 124 (with the bumper on). That trap speed is a very good indication that the car is still making the stated power levels.

:iagree:

This whole filter talk about being restricted where they sit is a bit rediculous. I mean its not like you force air into the intakes. They create a vacuume. They dont really need that much space. Just as long as they are not sucking in hot air really is the only concern and where they are positioned they will not do that.

Look at the BP kit. He has just one filter on there in a crammed location. These two filters will be just fine.

Great input! If this was a NA application it would be much more crucial. What is more important is how straight of a shot it is from the filter to the turbo. Large bends combined with large distances can greatly restrict. In the case of our kit it is as close to a straight shot is it is going to get.

Thanks, Tony

I wasn't saying anything about the Filters being on or off, but about the front Bumper being off. On a strip is one thing because the car is moving, not on a dyno where its sitting in one spot. Yes, I see blower fans, but those are focused for radiator/intercooler cooling.

Right they do, not questioning that. But what happens when the vacuum is greater than the volume of air that's able to fill the space since there's not a direct opening? That's the only thought.

Of course, not commenting about the flow of the pipes Tony, just curious about the placement of filters in terms of available airflow.

With the front mount intercooler I don't think you have many other options as far as placement. However I do see where you are going with it. We will be back on the dyne soon enough.