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FI with continous high speed driving 130MPH+
Hey guys! I have been searching for this info for the past three hours so if I missed it sorry MODS a redo thread was not intended.
OK now to business. I live in Germany and like to drive really fast. Even with a 24 row oil cooler and everything else stock at cruizing speeds at 130MPH my oil temps sit around 220-240. When I open up and top out at 165mph it rides around 250-260. I am goin to get FI this winter but my big concern is oil temps at speeds in excess of 180+. does anyone have any advice on setup to include FI and OIL cooler parts? |
130 mph... Jesus
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With FI and those speeds continuously, either go for a 72 row, or two 34 row oil coolers. Both run over $1,000, the twin 34's have more surface area and can be mounted closer to the radiator so you can fit the FMIC. Shouldn't have any issues at all. I do recommend an upgraded radiator as well. The water temp gauge is garbage.
I am envious, wish I can do that on the daily. |
At those sustained speeds, heat wrapping, ducting, proper aero and so forth all become factors in cooling. A larger oil cooler will definitly help, however it may not be the "cure all". With that amount of volume of air entering the fascia at those speeds. The air has to be able to exit at similar rate in order to extract the heat.
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It kinda pisses you off when you can't match the top end of the station wagons and sedans. Hence the need to FI thanks for the input guys. all I know is FI helps make your car go faster but my knowledge ends there. I've been reading this forum for days trying to figure out whats best and have a lot of new knowledge but no direction to go in. I think I should TT but then there are arguments for the Single set up. I'm a helicopter mechanic not a mechanical engineer! |
helicopter jet engine?
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Need one of these...
http://www.ronpatrickstuff.com/image...Dr1_PScopy.jpg The best part is is it is street legal. http://www.ronpatrickstuff.com/ |
A vented hood and a wider opening in the fascia. Along with the already mention violin mods you should be fine!
This is by the way the silliest reason to go fast! Station wagons lmao Be safe man! |
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Lol audi station wagon :icon18: 130 mph I would love to take my car out there. A bigger oil cooler will help for sure you might have to run two if your going to be doing those kind of speeds all the time. |
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Beating station wagons isn't the only reason to go fast. It makes road trips that much more fun. Not a jet engine mechanic. I can install them but I haven't had the opportunity to tear one apart yet. |
I don't know about German cars but I don't think any production car engine is meant to sustain high speeds (high loads) not to mention a NA car modded to FI. But good luck to you. And if you can post a video of a station wagon passing you at 130 :p
With Standard Gear ratios RPMs 130 = 4800 6th 165 = 6000 6th |
I sustain over 130 regularly. I do not have a large oil cooler, and the one that I do have is behind the intercooler. My oil temps can hit 220-230 if I hold it up there for a while on nights that arent very cool weather. At the higher speeds, the airflow increases a lot. I am not sure to what ratio that offsets the higher sustained RPM, but it definitely helps. Up to 175-180 I have not had my oil temps go out of control, but the longest I have sustained that type of speed in the 370z is just for a minute or two.
As far as oil cooling goes, I think you just want to get on the larger end of the typical spectrum. People that are road racing will probably tax their oil temp just as much if not more, as they are all over the place on RPM and have less airflow due to lower speeds, and they are making max power more frequently as they constantly have to slow down then reaccelerate. I dont think that sustaining the high speeds is going to really hit you hard on oil temps compared to a road racer. I cant recall the size of my oil cooler, but you can just see the top of it behind the intercooler on the driver side (LHD). It wasnt a kit, I just bought the parts. http://www.the370z.com/members/phunk...re37324-11.jpg |
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Dont even bother unless you have a built engine to continuously to do that type of speed. Your puttin so much stress on the engine, trust me i know. Thats how i blew mine up
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a lot of people fail to realize that in 5th or 6th gear you are OVER driving the engine, which is the same theory as lighting a match....it will only burn for so long. When you FI a car, the matchstick just got a whole lot shorter. Nice build though! :)
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I dont really see the big deal with sustaining high speed. It would be one thing if you were under high load the entire time... but once I am finished accelerating, it isnt requiring enough power to sustain these speeds that it even stays in boost. I still have a 100% stock cooling system even the radiator, etc. I have over 18,000 miles with the turbos and while I dont go that fast every day, I do it often enough. I also used to ride the speed limiter pretty often when the engine was mostly stock with stock speed limiter. I really use the power the car has all the time... I wouldnt say I beat on it, but many would look at it that way.
I think that if your tune is good enough, youre fine. |
5th is not "overdriving our engine" (1:1) As long as your motor can pull through the gear, it's not any different on the engine than doing 30 in 1st gear. 5th and 6th just aren't as robust as the other gears.
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I drive 100+ a lot. Stage 2 TT kit and I haven't had any issues... Love to see how fast my mph climbs at wot
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I have a vented hood, csf radiator and 34 row oil cooler from z1. I no longer see over 220 no matter how hard I drive it. Stage 2 gtm twin turbo. Iv been 180 in my 370 and it had more in it. I dont have the balls on the street to go faster.
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Nice! I stopped at 150 on my G. Has more but I'm stock block n don't wanna push it that hard.. If I had built motor tho I'd peg the needle til it couldn't move anymore!
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Lol my kind of driver I have hit 170 in my Z a few times no room or need to go any faster. |
Good to have a real auto enthusiast here. It’s hard to find high speed freaks like me around here. Glad I found you. I will share with you ways to overcome your cooling issue. First, Here are the very important links to some of my work. I will post the part with cooling fan temp PCM modification soon :
http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...-part-1-a.html http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...t-2-final.html I am a high speed driver as well. My favorite part when it comes to highly spirited driving is doing super high speed. 130 mph is nothing if the 370Z is properly and professionally modified (Of course it is not that cheap ). I used to own a 2009 GT3-RS and 130 mph was like lunch everyday. Loved that car every minute of it, until my damn brother severely wrecked the car 2 years ago.... Yikes......... Anyway, this is the ultimate and reliable way to cool down your engine considerably. The fact is this VVEL cylinder heads act like a heat pump. Very nice design but thermally very inefficient .They generate a tremendous amount of heat that you would not believe. These below are the true weaknesses of the VQ37VHR oil and water cooling system , and that's why the engine temp itself runs very hot, and thus the super hot oil temp : 1)) Factory radiator is flimsy and very thin. The whole cooling capacity is only 9-1/8 quarts. After the engine fully warms up for 30 minutes and especially at 85F+ ambient temps with highly spirited driving, this radiator could never cool the engine down below 217F. 2)) No factory oil cooler 3)) Engine Oil capacity is very little. Only 5-1/8 quart Well, I think Nissan engineers know well this design will allow the engine oil overheat to 285F in no time under high speed / load / rpm driving . But this is the best that they could do in order to keep down the cost of the car. So, : 1)) You need to have the Mocal thermostatic oil adapter and a 25 row oil cooler ( Setrab is the best ) installed. 2)) You need to modify to this dual row large radiator as shown in the 2 links above 3)) Using Uprev – tuner version and reprogram the fan duty cycle so that the fan will turn on at lower temperatures. This is VERY important since factory setting will NOT allow you to fully utilize this large radiator capability. Please see these links for stock fan setting and modified fan setting, respectively : http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...ckradiator.png http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...fansetting.png 4)) Install a Greddy oil pan ( My future project soon… ) Notice : Step 3 is VERY vital. If you retain the factory fan setting, you will not be able to utilize this radiator to its fullest capability. This is where it gets the coolant temp down to about 195F , and thus considerably cools the oil down way further. A must for twin turbo 500whp package Step 4 is also very important. Not only this Greddy oil pan adds another 2 quarts of oil, which further cools down your oil temp, there are baffle plates that will help to minimize or eliminate the oil starvation. Believe me on this when you start rpm the car at about 7000+ while pulling a 1.3 to 1.4G turns .... and this VQ37VHR does NOT come with a secondary scavenging oil pump. After everything that I have done above ( Except with the Greddy oil pan ). I did drive at a 5 mile real hard driving on HWY 9 ( Rpm from 5500 to 7600 rpm constant ) at about 88F – 90F ambient, my oil temp NEVER got passed 215F. In comparison with just the 25 row oil cooler alone before, I was up to about 250F all the time. And with no oil cooler, it went up to a dangerous level of 280F+, almost put my car in limb mode….. Remember : Heat kills your engine. How do you think the Carrera 4, GT3, Carrerra Turbo can survive that heat in super high speed and high RPM ? The reason would be because they have 9+ quarts of oil and a 25+ quarts cooling capacity. You can verify these specs yourself. The VQ37VHR engine is not quite as stout as Porsche and may not last as long under severe and high speed drivings, but it is plenty strong and will last for a while if you keep it cool enough . Good luck. |
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I paid a professional driver to test my GT3RS for top speed. They radar read the car and it topped out at about 193 mph at 8000 rpm on 6th gear and the car has only 450hp at the engine.... Amazing isn't it ? I believe the Z can hit 190 mph +, just need a bit more whp since the Z's aerodynamic is not quite as good as the GT3 MK2. Also the GT3 is 200 lbs lighter than my stock Z |
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my z can hit 190. with just like it is. Im pretty sure. I can leave it in 6th gear and punch it at 80 and it carries me to 160 and 170 pretty damn fast. yes these guys are completely right. with the right aftermarket stuff you shouldnt see and cooling problems at all.
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wow. Some great intel. My Z will do 0 - Oh ****, a cop! LOL
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are you guys disabling the limiter?
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Now, I am sure this 370Z can achieve at least 90% of that performance if properly and professionally modified , and better yet, it will cost way less than what I paid for the GT3-RS back then. The VQ37 engine bottom end is much better than most people think. I don't believe that there is any problem with the stock bottom end to spin at 8000 rpm. However, the weak link is the VVEL camless ladder assembly. Now, that is the very reason why I do not raise the factory red line to 8000 rpm. I still leave it at the cutoff point at 7600 rpm. Like I said, the only flaw of this whole design is the excessive heat generated from the engine... and excessive heat does kill engine and other components HARD. If you can liberate the heat as what I have done, this engine can take very good high rpm and load abuse ( up to 7500 rpm only ). The engine may not last as long as my GT3RS MK2, but it will be pretty close... |
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Slight mods like my 370Z ( estimated about 295 whp I think... ). Full tank of gas. I weight about 165 lbs. Got up to ~160 mph around 6000+ rpm on 6th gear. Car could struggle another few miles but fuel got cut out. Took a while to get to 160 mph as I expected with the kind of whp that I have. After Uprrev speed limitation was eliminated, I tried again and result was : ~ 163 -164 mph... A little less than 165 mph for sure. I wish I had a camera mounted but I could not do so... May be next time after FI. I did not want to have another friend sitting with me taking video because driving at that speed + watching for cops was very intensive and dangerous. Also, he weights 185 lbs and I can loose a good 5mph+ top speed. If anyone ever truly tried to top end their cars , please post the data. I love to collect high speed data from different members here in the370Z.com forum !! |
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I know the VQ motor pretty well, this isn't my first boosted VQ. I don't have personal experience with Porsche jus from what I read and a few friends so I can't comment on Porsche at all. VQ motor is nothing like Porsche. |
6th gear at 80 is probably around 3k rpm or more.. That's not revving high at all. What I personally would do is go wot from 4th n max out at 6th. That's how I hit 150 all the time. Shifting gears around 7k.
What Lafitte is doin is starting his run from 80 on 6th gear which is prolly little more than 3k rpm. Now to push it from top of 5th into 6th is how I would do it, but rolling start at 80 on 6th... Personally I'd use another gear. To each his own |
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Now, both the 35HR and 37HR bottom ends are a bit better and more rigid than the 35DE one. I am 100% sure of that. With internal modifications just like the DE motor ( in addition with a chromemoly steel crank and head studs ), these engines are pretty darn close to my H6 3.8L GT3 motor. The only limitation on the rpm is the VQ37, due to the VVEL ladder. Other than that, no problem at all for solid 8000 rpm redline once you built them. The only thing my Porsche GT3 H6 motor had that the HR engines do not : It has forged aluminum block and head, whereas our Nissan blocks and heads are all cast aluminum. That, can make a difference in engine rigidity, I think. |
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