FI with continous high speed driving 130MPH+

conmam

But then your speedometer reading will be way off because factory speed sensor was made for 3.629 final drive ratio. How do we correct this issue ?

Mr.Squeeze

Not sure how to correct the issue people have been switching final drives on Z's for years. At my power level I need it the stock gears are just to short for my power level. My speedometer being of a little is something I am not worried about it can be thrown off just by changing tires.

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Driven Motorsports Single Turbo 7675 T4 1.32 A/R 995WHP 780TQ

conmam

How much whp and wtq are you having on your Z ?

Mr.Squeeze

High boost 647whp 613TQ link to my thread is in my Sig

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Driven Motorsports Single Turbo 7675 T4 1.32 A/R 995WHP 780TQ

conmam

Yeah. That I see . Pretty close to 700 flywheel hp. Very strong and pretty killer torque you got there. Looks like a 3.3 final drive can get you up solid over 200 mph if your aerodynamics allow you to.

By the way, how is the driveability for your high power TT set up ? Hopefully it should be as good as factory turbo on a GTR ? I mean no bogging, erratic idling issues , hard starting issues at all temperature range ?

SS_Firehawk

Squeeze definitely has a 200mph car. Aero is .29 cd. The GT500 is a brick in comparison, and does not make the kind of juice Squeeze is making (pun intended)

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Compdoc777

Just put a fan on the oil cooler you have now. Also where did you mount the cooler? If you put it on the drivers side or left side of the car I front of the radiator and AC heat exchanger the fan for that will suck air through the cooler when the ac is on and cool the oil by 200 degrees. If you have some way to turn that fan on while the AC is off that would solve some cooling problems. Also adding a fan to the oil cooler would work as well.

Yet at those speeds it would be nice to have two coolers with fans.

I think the best would be a cooler in each side of the front wheel well with an hole cut to let air in and one out with hose that goes to cool the brakes and puller fans on both. That way the faster you drive the more cooling and even cooling when you slow down.

Mr.Squeeze

If you factor in 15%-17% drivetrain lose that would put around 750 crank. I have no doubt that the car can do 200 MPH just haven't had the room to do it.

I have done 170-175 and the car get's there quick.

The driveability of the car is perfect like it came that way from the factory. The tune is spot on no erratic idling issues hard start issues. My Oil temps in the summer stayed around 180-190 W.O.T after a bunch of pulls 220.

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Driven Motorsports Single Turbo 7675 T4 1.32 A/R 995WHP 780TQ

FPenvy

since we are on the topic of FI and high speeds i got a good question. i was told that with my 7AT transmission and going with a TT setup i would basically lose my 6 and 7 gears. since the stress of high rpm in those gears + added hp/tq would blow everything up. this was actually my main reason for not going FI since like you all i enjoy touching my speed limiter and cruising at high speeds on the highways (especially long trips) plus the other problem is that GTM's stage 4 AT tranny is $8k with labor and still was told the higher gears may not be completely safe.

anyone wanna help shed some light on this? you guys seem to know a good bit about FI and high speed.

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324whp/258wtq AAM Tuned |F.I. NonRes CF CBE/NonRes TestPipes #373|UpRev Tuner|Akuma Motorsports Intakes|Z1 34 Row Oil Cooler

SS_Firehawk

I'm definitely no expert, but pushing a lot of torque on the overdrive gears, gears that are not built to handle the abuse the first few get, they may not hold up very well. My shop was hesitant to run my dyno's in 5th because they didn't want to put that extra wear on the gear. Again, I have no direct experience with the failure of the gears.

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FPenvy

and thats where i decided maybe no FI since i like going fast lol if there was more info and tests on the GTM stg 4 tranny maybe i'd go that route. til then it's wait to get a GT-R unless i just TT my Z lol

my original goal was 550 to 600WHP but at those numbers the TQ gets up there and i'd probably blow my transmission in a week.

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324whp/258wtq AAM Tuned |F.I. NonRes CF CBE/NonRes TestPipes #373|UpRev Tuner|Akuma Motorsports Intakes|Z1 34 Row Oil Cooler

roy'sz

You have to change the values on the digital speed counters. Since the car is trying to read 3.629 you have to change that value to 3.3XX, also if you have changed tire sizes then you need to update that as well. I thought that this setting came with the handheld or can be done when you uprev?

LafitteZ

fellas I know its not optimal for me to start in 6th at 80 mph and go all the way up. Iv had my car for 2 years and iv tried things just because I can. If I were trying to get to 160 faster id start in a lower gear. I just wanted to see how it would start to pull and not stop pulling until I let off the gas. I chose to stop at 160 when i did it. With that being said I think i could redline this car in 6th gear with enuff room. Im at 540 whp on a gtm twin turbo. all stock aero besides a vented hood. the car did 160 before the turbos. I now have 200 more horses.

conmam

Unfortunately, Uprev does not deal with BCM commands. They only deal with ECU commands. Besides that, they restrict mostly to performance parameters. Uprev cannot even do do everything that Consult III can do, unfortunately. However, Uprev is great for all your performance needs pretty much.

conmam

Overall, It is good to know that even a stock factory engine with about 500whp can speed up to 190 mph and won't get burn out that easily if the entire engine temperature ( including oil ) stays cool enough and as long as the engine does not knock at that load.

The VVEL is very robust as long as we keep the rpm at 7500 rpm max and make sure that it does not have any moments of oil deprivation. If the VVEL mechanism is oil starved at all, there is a very highly likely chance that it will crash sooner or later. One of the things that I must do for my car is to add the Greddy oil pan in there.

This oil pan not only adds in about 2 additional quarts of oil and cools it further, it does gave some baffle plate design that will surely help to minimize if not eliminate oil starvation during 1.4 G turns at 6000+ rpm. Cheap insurance against burning out the motor, totally worth it. I will post detail of my work once I am done with that.