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Some of us discussed building up an engine using a spare or used block. I honestly don't know anything about building engines, but picking engine components is as intriguing as

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Old 11-29-2012, 10:24 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Lightbulb Engine Build Thread

Some of us discussed building up an engine using a spare or used block. I honestly don't know anything about building engines, but picking engine components is as intriguing as picking computer components. All of this is pretty much overkill, but I'll continue to maintain the OEM block for as long as I can. I don't have time to maintain this thread, but perhaps one can put together a FAQ or something.

Questions:
  • Should I get 95.5 or 96 mm though I want to keep stock bore diameter after honing the cylinder walls? 95.5
  • Are valvetrain upgrades necessary? If anything, it'll be nice to be able to have minor headroom for an additional 500 RPM (keeping in mind VVEL limits). This engine might be subjected to some occasional track use (for testing). How about valves and valve seats that can handle boost?
  • Some components are listed OEM and race type. Race components sounds like a good idea and gives the impression it can handle the abuse, but isn't it designed to be replaced often (e.g., not for daily driving longevity)? I'm wondering about which bearings to use. OEM bearings, but treated.
  • Assuming the crank is healthy, what additional work is necessary and how do tolerances work with new bearings? Is polishing and knife edging necessary?

Below is a wishlist for an FI supporting build for daily driving and occasional track use (for testing). The goal is to maintain a stock displacement, and this is a fairly basic build to support reasonable amounts of power (550-600 whp max on 91 octane). Consider this a Stage 0 build:
Engine
  • Wiseco Pistons/Rings 95.5 mm 9.0:1 CR with upgraded wrist pins (WPC Treated; Calico Top Coat)
  • Wiseco K1 Connecting Rods (WPC Treated)
  • OEM Rod Bearings (WPC Treated)
  • OEM Main Bearings (WPC Treated)
Head
  • ARP VQ37VHR L19 Head Studs
  • ARP VQ35/37 Main Studs
  • Cosworth Head Gaskets
Fuel and Ignition
  • Injector Dynamics ID725
  • Viton O-Rings
  • ??? Insulators
  • HKS Racing Iridium Spark Plugs
Other
  • GTM VR38 Lower Manifold Adapter and Fuel Rails
  • OEM VR38 Intake Collector and Engine Cover
  • OEM Gasket Kit
  • OEM Timing Belt Kit
  • Ceramic Coated Parts
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Last edited by DIGItonium; 12-02-2012 at 11:21 PM.
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:10 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Here's an interesting link:
WPC - Metal Surface Treatment / Micro Shot Peening

I haven't looked into costs, but maybe this is an alternative to coating some parts.
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:17 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Now this thread is more like it


wheres mr squeeze at on this one?
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:39 AM   #4 (permalink)
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wheres mr squeeze at on this one?
I saw his posts and video on another forum. His car is so sick! I don't think I'll be pushing as much power as his car.

BTW, I saw a product for the VQ. It's a set of aftermarket spark plug coils. It is supposed to produce a stronger spark for improved torque and response. Sounds way overkill.

Also, I wonder if a NISMO oil pump is necessary. Is it possible to take one apart to treat or rebuild it? WPC can treat oil pump gears.
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:54 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Excellent thread idea! Sub'd for sure!
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Sub'd. Interesting stuff!
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
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P your always thinking!!

Subb'ddd
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:37 PM   #8 (permalink)
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P your always thinking!!
Thanks! Funny how we've not seen a thread to share build ideas and recommendations for this platform. These ideas can help us avoid overkill and save money.
anthonyy and Z-Girl 12 like this.
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks! Funny how we've not seen a thread to share build ideas and recommendations for this platform. These ideas can help us avoid overkill and save money.
Definitely a great idea. As you said, there haven't been many, if any, topics on our platform, and to me it seems that maybe the car is still young in the scheme of things. I am sure that eventually as time rolls forward, new methods and ways to attack such builds will become more and more apparent and this thread could be a superb starting point.
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:34 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DIGItonium View Post
BTW, I saw a product for the VQ. It's a set of aftermarket spark plug coils. It is supposed to produce a stronger spark for improved torque and response. Sounds way overkill.
Do you happen to have a link for this VQ specific product? Sounds very similar to the HKS Twin Power DLI, or ignition booster "spark booster"

( Click to show/hide )
The Twin Power ignition amplifier incorporates both the CDI and transistor method ignition to provide optimum spark duration and maximum voltage output, resulting in crisper throttle response and a smoother engine powerband. The CDI method, capacity discharge ignition, provides maximum voltage by transferring all stored energy in the capacitor to the ignition coil so that the ignition current can buildup quickly, thus making the Twin Power very effective in the higher revs where a normal spark would tend to diminish. This strong rapid spark prevents the high rpm ignition miss that reduces peak power.

The transistorized method generates high voltage by using transistors to cut off current to the coil, thus allowing for a long energy discharge. This longer spark duration allows the Twin Power to improve lower RPM throttle response and torque. The combination of the CDI and the transistor method incorporates two distinct systems into one high performance unit, hence the designation of Twin Power. The Twin Power produces a spark output that is typically 1.5-2.5 stronger than of the stock ignition system and consumes about 35% less power input than other ignition amplifiers. Each compact and attractive Twin power unit is constructed of durable anodized aluminum and sealed to prevent corrosion from moisture. General wiring harnesses are included in each unit to aid in installation and mounting. Vehicle Specific wiring harnesses are also available for certain models to further aid in installations that require intricate integration.(CARB E.O. # D-186-22)
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Good stuff here! I've yet to actually see build threads myself detailing what parts were used in the engine. Mr. Squeeze could chime in the best since he's running a built motor and actually using its potential.
Sub'd cuz this is the route I'll be taking soon!
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Old 11-29-2012, 04:06 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tibal View Post
Do you happen to have a link for this VQ specific product? Sounds very similar to the HKS Twin Power DLI, or ignition booster "spark booster"
I think this is the one:
Z-1 Performance Automotive Services Inc. - Okada Project Coils 350Z/G35/370Z/G37

Found a thread:
okada plasma
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:00 PM   #13 (permalink)
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your criteria sounds similar to what I was going for with my build, heres my setup:

wiseco 10:1 96mm, coated
K1 Rods w/ARP 2000 bolts (Carrillo actually owns K1)
oem rod/main bearings, calico coated (no one makes aftermarket for our engine)
ARP L19 head studs
oem head gaskets
CSC Radiator
Z1 Motor mounts
HKS spark plugs (already on the car)
Aeromotive 340lph fuel pump (upgrading from walbro 255)
.86 turbine housings "stage 2" (upgrading from .64 "stage 1")
injectors I'm undecided on, I currently have bosch 650's but I know they won't handle 600whp. I'm going to break in the engine on my current tune and then upgrade the injectors/retune in spring.

theres nothing else you need to do for reliable 600whp, leave the head alone

as far as machine work goes, find a good machine shop and they will:

inspect the block, bore + hone
inspect the crank, checking for micro-fractures. polish.
spec the bearings, line hone the block/rods if necessary as oem bearings only come in a few sizes
balance the pistons/rods, then balance the full rotating assembly. for peace of mind I recommend having your assembly balanced with your crank pulley and your clutch/flywheel/pressure plate combo.

Last edited by esfourteen; 11-29-2012 at 08:06 PM.
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:09 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esfourteen View Post
your criteria sounds similar to what I was going for with my build, heres my setup:

wiseco 10:1 96mm, coated
K1 Rods w/ARP 2000 bolts (Carrillo actually owns K1)
oem rod/main bearings, calico coated (no one makes aftermarket for our engine)
ARP L19 head studs
oem head gaskets
CSC Radiator
Z1 Motor mounts
HKS spark plugs (already on the car)
Aeromotive 340lph fuel pump (upgrading from walbro 255)
.86 turbine housings "stage 2" (upgrading from .64 "stage 1")
injectors I'm undecided on, I currently have bosch 650's but I know they won't handle 600whp. I'm going to break in the engine on my current tune and then upgrade the injectors/retune in spring.

theres nothing else you need to do for reliable 600whp, leave the head alone
Good stuff! I'm planning on doin sumthin similar. For injectors prolly ID. Cjm fuel system upgrade also. Do u think ur exhaust will be a restrictor when tryin to get 600+?

Last edited by elperuano; 11-29-2012 at 08:10 PM. Reason: Typo
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:13 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by elperuano View Post
Good stuff! I'm planning on doin sumthin similar. For injectors prolly ID. Cjm fuel system upgrade also. Do u think ur exhaust will be a restrictor when tryin to get 600+?
fuel return won't hurt, but I'm confident with a 340 pump and properly sized injectors I won't have any flow issues going for 600. As for exhaust, with .86 turbines and a free flowing 2.5" 600 should not be an issue, again a 3" won't hurt I just don't think its going to be necessary. I made 500whp at 12psi with a less than ideal flowing 2 3/8" exhaust and 2" restrictors plates at the test pipes (boost creep fix).

Last edited by esfourteen; 11-29-2012 at 08:18 PM.
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