Cool, I'll definitely be checking ur thread how it goes. If I don't have to spend the extra on fuel return then I'd like to keep it in my pocket. Good luck

also, you'll need a crapload of seals/gaskets for the engine rebuild. courtesy parts offers a rebuild gasket kit for about $215 but it includes head gaskets and exhaust manifold gaskets. I got my head gaskets from Z1 so I ended up piecing together the rest of the parts list for the engine gaskets:

EDIT: updated the spreadsheet to include part numbers for oil pump/pickup and all the timing chains/guides/tensioners. depending on your engine mileage you could get away with reusing these components, but since its all open im replacing everything.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...DMWtBT0E#gid=0

Wow! Thanks! One of the most useful posts ever!

Yay! Aftermarket coils useless, so no need to spend money there.

If I end up building, I might end up with the GTX turbos. Plus, I'd like to clean and ceramic coat some parts that are being reused.

Good to know on the bearings. GTM offers "race" bearings. Not sure what the benefits are.

If a return kit is not used, any plans to use an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator?

Man, I still have the VR38 intake plenum. It'll be nice to see someone release the lower manifold by the time I decide to build. :)

[EDIT] Look up 73draggy on YouTube. He has videos detailing his VR38 build. It is so awesome.

GTX turbos are pretty much overkill for our setup, I considered the GTX2860R, but the flow characteristics are pretty much the same until you get to 20-30psi which is overkill for a max of 600whp, with e85 or a race fuel setup, or even meth, i think those turbos could do close to 700whp

I forgot to mention I ceramic coated my manifolds, turbine housings, and down pipes. I would recommend doing it if you can afford it. also got turbo blankets. less heat in the engine bay.

the GTM race bearings are oem bearings that are calico coated

you cannot use an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator without a fuel return kit. with our VVEL setup the only thing that its good for is bumping up the base fuel pressure, which I don't believe will be necessary with the 340lph pump.

Gotcha... I guess we can see what WPC can do for our OEM bearings. Heck, I don't even know the cost haha.

I was thinking the GTX would give us better response over the GT. Ron has really nice gains using less boost, and I think it spools up a bit quicker. [shrugs]

the GTX is pretty much identical to the GT until you get to about 20psi, take a look at the compressor maps:

http://www.atpturbo.com/root/release...s-GT2860RS.jpg

now this doesn't tell the entire story, but essentially 0-18psi on both turbos is flowing the same air and making the same power. they are also the same size trim and will spool pretty identical. where the GTX shines is past ~18psi, thats where the GT turbo is "over spinning" and blowing hot air, people typically compensate by running **** loads of meth or race gas (think evo with stock turbo and 30psi). its incredibly inefficient but if you keep the charge cool and pull timing you can make more power. the GTX series is designed to flow well even past 20psi and thus good for more power.

as for bearings, just get your oem bearings calico coated. its very popular with race teams and high end build shops. it cost around $150 i want to say, I have the receipt in my car I can check for you tomorrow.

Sounds like your going for low end power here. nothing with top end. Just from what it sounds like after reading all your stuff, kinda.

I'm also doing a build on my g37. So far the block and heads been traveling to few places within the US. If you want more boost out of our motors, i recommend partially closing out the open deck. I would go with CP pistons over weisco. The main factor you really want to worry about is the pin. Spending an extra few 100 bucks on it is a life saver in the long run. But really depends on your power your trying to reach. I've talk to ferrera and got a custom order with the valvetrain(the whole thing, valves, springs, retainers, etc.) its around 2ish G's. Only problem you have to have a distributor to order to get the "discounts" on it. Shipping it to TX was 300 bucks. Yikes.
For fuel delivery im not really thinking anything about the fuel return system. Instead im planning to go with 2 external fuel pumps from bosch. Stole some ideas from the 2jz guys. i figure it could work on our cars, but who knows i could be speaking out of my ***.

anyways here are is all the build crap that i have so far.

darton sleeves (discount from john at DS for 1020)
partially closed deck ( part of the service from DS)
CP pistons/ rods (about 4 g's)
two 6262 turbos with .86 ar (about 3g's)
ferrera valvetrain (2200ish)
1000cc injectors( thanks to richard and omar at uprev got it cheap)
custom manifold (top mount set up) (2000)
Greddy oil pan upgrade (375 from japan. took 5 months to get here)
34 row oil cooler ( 600 got ripped off from GTM)
Radiator( i forget but the owner at CSF at sema 2 years ago hooked it up it was cheap)
Greddy infometer (Free)
custom made rear diffuser (FLOW TESTED!) (msg me. all testing done in the east coast)
driveshaft( 410)
and MT's to plant these bitches. (2 285/17/ and uhh something was 400 a tire or something.)

The car isnt finished or assembled yet.

Oh also the head works. (1500-2500? never got locked down on the price)

Oh and Aeromotive 340lph that **** craps out. this was tested at tx2k12. by few of the guys. so i dont know.


Well thats all the info i have on my car right about now. hope i have contributed!


Oh also been talking to eric at haltec to see if they have something going on for our cars. nothing yet. just figure that be news to share if anyone is interested in haltec. I know I am!

^ Waaay overkill

Great thread Digi,

I have started my build plans and had similar questions. I contacted Squeeze and he helped me out quite a bit. Almost everything he told me was already stated in the thread by esfourteen.

I would like to see a parts list/price list for this 600HP Pump gas build. Also where we can get the best prices on the items.

I dont want to go to a shop with "an open check book" tell them what I want to do and get over built. Like kpjc4eva if thats what you wanted great, but that seems wayyyyyy more than what im trying to achieve.

simple motor build for me
15.5cc wiseco piston (9.1cr) forged
eagle forged rods
new bearings
arp head bolts
upgraded to a thicker head gasket droping cr to 8.9 i believe

^ that exactly what we need for 700 WHP..

This is all great, and so much good info but... any extra precautions needed to ensure transmission is supported? I have not yet seen anyone using special dog tooth/upgraded gears in their trannys for 2-4th for instance.

Or is ours stout enough as is with the more common upgrades?

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It's usually torque that destroys transmissions. I've been told that the transmission should be capable of handling over 600 ft/lbs with the appropriate clutch.

What mm are those pistons you went with ?