6 puck on the street?

Arrvaxx

Based on this and several other comments about 6 puck I'm a little concerned. I'm getting a F.I. twin turbo in December and track my car 4-8 times a year. It is also my dd. Is the Specialty Z 5 puck a good balance or with that kind of hp am I just going to have to get used to the 6?

__________________

synolimit

Didn't see it but remember a 6 puck sprung and unsprung is a world of difference.

DD=sprung

Track/drag car=unsprung

__________________
13 370z-

FireDan50

I have a 6 puck clutch/flywheel from Z1 and I believe it is sprung....I've been driving it daily for a couple months now and don't have any complaints. It is a little harder to push and grabs quickly but you just learn to drive it and get used to it...well I did anyway.

elliotty

I have the South Bend Stage 3 Drag 6 puck from ZSpeed in my Nismo, which I only drive on the street. It is much grabbier than stock and has a very short engagement window at the very top of the pedal, but you get used to it. My biggest challenge is trying to back in to parking spots without slipping the clutch too much. I would imagine if I added the RJM clutch pedal kit, it would be much easier to modulate.

On the positive side, it has yet to slip and with the South Bend black flywheel it shifts VERY fast.

TopgunZ

I am going with twins and have been interested in the JWT kit as this is what I had on my 350 and it held my 400rwtq just fine. I loved the feel of it.

However, I have read contradicting points that it will and it wont handle the power levels im looking for on the 370 which is 500rwtq.

Does anyone have this or know someone pushing the heavy duty JWT setup?

Alstann

I have the same setup, and I completely agree. The clutch is indeed grabbier, but it's nothing like the crazy clutches I've driven in other cars. It's honestly not bad and you get used to it.

I've always believed when it came to drivetrain components, you should shoot for over your targets, rather than under. I looked at the JWT setup for my TT build that's upcoming, but I was recommended by Joe@ZSpeed to go Southbend because of the torque holding capacity.

__________________

TopgunZ

[/QUOTE]I've always believed when it came to drivetrain components, you should shoot for over your targets, rather than under. I looked at the JWT setup for my TT build that's upcoming, but I was recommended by Joe@ZSpeed to go Southbend because of the torque holding capacity. [/QUOTE]


What did you find out as far as torque numbers for the 370 JWT?

And what does 1200kg of clamping force really mean?

snowsurfdirtx

I've always believed when it came to drivetrain components, you should shoot for over your targets, rather than under. I looked at the JWT setup for my TT build that's upcoming, but I was recommended by Joe@ZSpeed to go Southbend because of the torque holding capacity. [/QUOTE]


What did you find out as far as torque numbers for the 370 JWT?

And what does 1200kg of clamping force really mean?[/QUOTE]

I recommend giving Joe at Zspeed a call. He's very knowledgable and helped me with some info I needed yesterday for my estimated power numbers. Which was, 6 puck ceramic sprung ACT or Southbend clutch, 2500? lb pressure plate(stock was 900lbs less clamping force) southbend single mass flywheel, and of course HD CSC and new master cylinder. He knows his stuff.

Clamping force means how hard the pressure plate squeezes the clutch disc against the flywheel. Moar force, moar power, depending on clutch style and material.

Edit: I should be around 500whp and 380wtq also.

__________________
11 Red Touring/Sport/Nav, 472/382wtq@7psi.. GTM/Tomei/Volk/Motordyne/Z1/JLAudio/Aeroforce/etc..
95 S14 in progress, L33 v8.. T7575 turbo/SPL/MCA Suspension/Personal/Works Bell/OZ/etc..

snowsurfdirtx

By the way, I have used an ACT 6 puck ceramic clutch in my 96 Mitsu GSX for a while. It's definitely more grabby, and with a stronger pressure plate you'll get a stiffer clutch. It can be a bit to get used to, being that its window for slipping it from a stop is smaller and touchier. Give it a couple 1000 miles and you'll be driving it like it came with the car. When you make that kinda power that needs these kinda clutches, you gotta pay to play

__________________
11 Red Touring/Sport/Nav, 472/382wtq@7psi.. GTM/Tomei/Volk/Motordyne/Z1/JLAudio/Aeroforce/etc..
95 S14 in progress, L33 v8.. T7575 turbo/SPL/MCA Suspension/Personal/Works Bell/OZ/etc..

Joepro

This.

I am running the SS kit with 14lbs flywheel, but na, great clutch but Joe knows his stuff.

__________________
Swift|Koni|SPC| FI CBE|Z1|Stillen|Sbend|Zspeed|R/T Tuned|523 whp|458 tq|10.5 psi|SOLD
Joepro's Journal|Joepro's Boosted Performance Build |Pittsburgh-Western-Pa-Ohio-Wv-Group

BGTV8

For guys running high clamping force clutches - beware the implications for the thrust bearing on the crankshaft.

A 1200kg clutch implies you need to overcome 1200kg force with your leg leg pressing on the clutch pedal. the hydraulics will give you the leverage to do that, BUT you are still effectively trying to push the crankshaft out the front of the engine with 1200kg force.

This is absolutely going to accelerate the wear on the thrust bearing which has only been spec'd by Nissan for the OEM clutch clamping load.

Expect to see the thrust bearing ("washer") suffer accelerated wear as a consequence.

For most of us, this won't see the light of day as these typically have a life of 200,000klics, BUT wear is unlikely to be linearly proportional. In my race engine, we suffered oval bore wear after 4 seasons (with a SACHS twin-plate solid centre 1250Kg clamp-load) as a consequence of premature thrust washer wear). As a conseqeucne, we tear down the engine every season and replace main/big-end bearings and thrust face washer as a matter of course.

The consequences of excessive crank end-float caused by a high-clamping load clutch can extend to side loads on rods with asymettric wear on big-end and small-end bearings, oval wear in the bore, side wear on pistons in truly excessive cases - usually asscoated with hi-mileage engines used as DD with hi-clamping load clutch.

We always need to remember that an engine is a "complete system" and altering one component really requires thinking about the system as a total.

RB

Arrvaxx

Wear? If I was concerned about cost of ownership I would put my balls in a jar and buy a Honda.

__________________

Alstann

I've always believed when it came to drivetrain components, you should shoot for over your targets, rather than under. I looked at the JWT setup for my TT build that's upcoming, but I was recommended by Joe@ZSpeed to go Southbend because of the torque holding capacity. [/QUOTE]


What did you find out as far as torque numbers for the 370 JWT?

And what does 1200kg of clamping force really mean?[/QUOTE]

My research cropped up lots of numbers, low as 350wtq or as high as 500wtq. But, I also considered another aspect of that rating which is very crucial - performance under duress. I glazed my previous clutch over due to me drifting the car and performing hard clutch kicks, as well as drag strip launches and power shifting the car. Even though I only made 305whp and 270 or whatever tq, the clutch couldn't handle the duress I put it under.

Hence why I went with the strongest, most driveable 6-puck offered by Southbend without costing a stupid amount of money like the twin-disc lineups or anything. Even though I do see the reason for the twin-disc setups and it's performance, my personal budget and requirements made me concur with Joe and I went with the Southbend setup.

__________________

Mr.Squeeze

The TZR is a nice clutch to have for the street I had it for a year before I switched to the OS Giken triple Disc.

__________________
Driven Motorsports Single Turbo 7675 T4 1.32 A/R 995WHP 780TQ

GaleForce

I ended up going with the Southbend stage 3 DD kit from Joe at Z-Speed. I'll go with the OS once I burn this clutch out.

__________________